A free headband Knitting pattern: Stirnband 1

A warm & reversible pattern for a knitted headband in cashmere yarn with beautiful Fair Isle details.

Everything was different this year but that certainly didn’t keep me from knitting presents for Christmas. Both my parents are really active. They love cross-country skiing and that’s why I came up with this headband knitting pattern to create a unique pair for the two of them.

And since sharing is caring (now more than ever!), I decided to put it up here on my blog for free so you can all knit one for yourself as well. Especially, as so many of you requested it on my Instagram page.

A pattern for a knitted headband which is reversible

I wanted something really special for my mum and dad. So, I went for a luxurious cashmere yarn (you’ll only need 35 grams). The pattern, however, is so universal, I’m sure you will be able to knit with a different yarn without a problem.

To make it even easier for you, I recorded a video and put it on youtube so you can knit along. This part was trickier than I thought it would be. So, make sure to comment on the video in case you would like me to do this for more of my patterns.

a reversible knitted headband with fair isle section

I knew I wanted to embellish the headbands with a bit of traditional Fair Isle/stranded knitting. The inside of the headband is just simple ribbing. This provides some nice grip, a layer of extra warmth, and helps to hide the floats of the colorwork. In fact, as there are no visible seams, this headband is fully reversible and you could wear it inside out as well.

headband knitting pattern two matching pairs in red and grey next to each other

Sounds too perfect to be true? Well, I do have to mention that you will need 3 different needle sets to finish the headband. Stockinette stitch, ribbing, and Fair Isle all have different ease. So, if you want to maintain the same elasticity across the whole headband, you can either add increases or switch needle sizes. I picked the latter as it looks a bit neater.

close-up of the knitted headbands in two different sizes

If you already have an interchangeable knitting needle set, this will probably be no big deal. And if not, then this knitting pattern is probably the best example of why it makes so much sense to own one. I got a huge list of the best knitting tools every knitter needs here on my blog. So many of them are optional but interchangeable knitting needles really will open up so many more choices.

Reading tip: How to knit a hat for beginners

Materials you will need for the Cashmere headband:

The materials and tools you will need for this headband knitting pattern
  • Around 35 grams (155 meters/370 yards) of yarn for needles size 3.00 mm; I used two skeins of the Pascuali Filati Bio Cashmere 6/28 in black & grey (and natural/rust for the second one)
  • Circular or Double-Pointed Knitting needles 2.50, 3.00, and 3.50 mm. Frequent readers probably already know that I am a huge fan of the Knitter’s Pride Karbonz Interchangeable Set or the Karbonz DPNS because they are the only ones that don’t end up crooked after 5 minutes.
  • A tapestry needle and scissors.
  • A crochet hook (for the provisional cast-on)
  • A Knitting Thimble (for the fair isle section)
  • Measuring tape

Note: I earn a small commission from purchases made through links in this article

Knitting Techniques

a work in progress of the knitted headband with the fair isle section almost finished

Most of this headband is knit in pure stockinette stitch. The inside of the hem is a simple 1×1 rib. So, I feel this knitting pattern is quite accessible for intermediate beginners. Possibly the only tricky part is the provisional cast on and the three-needles bind-off. But that’s just two rows and if you watch my tutorials it will be easy.

While the pdf will provide you with detailed step-by-step written instructions, and there is even the video available, you will need to know how to read charts for the Fair Isle section. But that part is super simple. Big promise!

And here’s how to knit in the round with double-pointed needles in case you need to catch up. More experienced knitters might want to check out my list of 10 tips to knit in the round like a pro.

But like I said above: It doesn’t really matter if you are knitting this headband with dpns or circulars. Pick whatever suits you best. Personally speaking, I prefer dpns. But when it comes to Fair Isle, I actually find it easier to manage the floats on circular needles (only two gaps to bridge).

Now, go download the pattern and it will all make sense to you. The pdf is 8 pages and really detailed.

Anyway, that’s my knitted headband pattern. Feel free to comment below in case you have any questions.

a super warm and reversible headband knitting pattern

32 thoughts on “A free headband Knitting pattern: Stirnband 1”

    • Hey Jody,
      thx for finding that typo. I see you subscribed by now and my server delivered the pattern. Let me know if you need any further help ๐Ÿ™‚

      Reply
    • Hey Barbara,

      if you don’t confirm your email address first, my server cannot send you the pattern. There should be a confirmation email in your email box. If it isn’t, your email provider is blocking the email and there’s nothing I can do.

      Reply
  1. Found it. Somehow I deleted. Most likely because I didn’t’ recognize the name this morning. Wake up at 4:30 am. Amazing the detail you went into with this pattern.

    Barbara

    Reply
      • Norman, I’m afraid I’m becoming a pest. Yarn you suggested cannot be shipped to US ( main land) Before I start I want to make sure what weight yarn you are using. From what I can tell, lace weight. Thank you.

        Reply
        • Hey Barbara,
          nothing wrong in asking questions – ever! ๐Ÿ™‚
          Ah…what a pity. Well..that’s the peculiar thing. Here in Europe we are actually not using “yarn weight”. All yarns come with labels with recommended needle sizes & gauge. So, this is a yarn for needle sizes 3.0mm.
          In US you could probably call it (superfine) fingering or so. So, it’s thicker than the regular 2ply but a bit thinner than most 4ply cashmere yarns.

          Reply
  2. Hi Norman,
    I just got my pattern and love the detailed instructions! I am curious, though, is there ia chart for the blue and white band? That was actually the one I was drawn to! Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hey Laura,

      i am not sure what you mean with blue and white? I only knit one with charcoal and grey and one find rust and natural. Both charts (on the same page) are included.

      Reply
    • Laura, the left hand of the pattern on page 7 is the pattern you are looking for. The stitches to the left of the red line.

      Reply
  3. Hi Norman
    I tried to download this pattern but when it ask for my name and email address, i mistyped a “,” instead of a “.”. I can not find my way back to that point again, hence, no download.

    Reply
  4. Hoi Norman.
    I’m wondering how you handled the transition from row 7 to row 8 of the pattern on the right side of pg 7?
    Chartwise, row 7 is this,
    CCMMMC
    ie, the first stitch is Contrast followed my 3 Main followed by. 2 more Contrasts. So the last repeat in row 7 is the same, ending with CC.
    Row 8 pattern is
    CMMMCC.
    So that puts the join as
    —–8——–!——7——
    CMMMCC!CCMMMC ( the ! Is the red on the chart).
    So we have at that join 4 Contrasts.
    How did you handle it?
    I would probably do
    ——8——-!—–7——-
    CMMMCC!CMMMMC

    Reply
    • Hey Bruce,
      you do realize the chart depicts two different motifs and not one? I’m not really sure what you are talking about in terms of “join”. You have to stop knitting at the red line and not knit across it ๐Ÿ˜‰

      Reply
  5. Actually, join is where you finish one row and start the next when knitting in the round. I realize the red is used to separate the 2 patterns. It also delineates the start of a row on the left pattern.
    The pattern I was actually referring to was the <.
    I mistakenly said right when I should have said left.

    Reply
  6. Hi Norman,
    Which needle size should I be checking the gauge on – 2.5, 3, or 3.5 mm?
    Thanks for this beautiful pattern. Iโ€™m looking forward to knitting it!

    Reply
  7. Hi Norman, I have been enjoying your tips, patterns and improving my knitting skills
    I am having an issue with receiving headband pattern, am hoping to complete a couple for Christmas

    Thank you again

    Reply
    • Then you have to be quick. And I can not tell you why you cannot receive this pattern, Kim. The email was delivered to you – please contact your email provider/client software to see what is happening.

      Reply
  8. Hi Norman, I am loving this pattern! I have just gotten to the last row before removing the provisional cast on and I noticed my interior rib- stitches is about one inch shorter than my exterior. Is this how it is supposed to be?
    Should i remove the provisional cast on and add some more rows of rib stitching?

    Can’t wait to finish the product.

    Reply
    • One full inch? that shouldn’t be the case, and judging from all the people who have finished it, this is not normal.
      Maybe you used a different yarn base for the interior? But yeah, you should definitely add something if the difference is that much. I mean, it SHOULD be like a row or two shorter but that’s about it.

      Reply
  9. Hi Norman!
    Thanks for this incredible project, seems so difficult but you really explain perfectly ^^
    I have a question, I made this project (btw It was sooo fun to make) but I made a cowl instead of the headband, so I wanted to ask you if it’s ok with you also because I was thinking about posting it on social media, but maybe you don’t want to see on instagram a different project than the original headband, so I’m asking to be sure ๐Ÿ™‚ thanks!

    Reply
    • Hey Aurora,
      rest assured I have no problem whatsoever with someone modifying my patterns. In fact, I find it rather exciting. Personally, I feel this is what knitting is all about. reproducing a patter 1:1 is boring, in my book.
      so please, go ahead, post it, tag me, share it with the world!

      Reply
  10. Hello Norman,

    I really like this headband pattern. Thank you.
    I knitted my swatch with 3.5 mm needles to get the correct number of stitches and rows. Should I begin with 3.0 mm needles for rows 1-37, next use 3.5 mm needles for rows 38-48, then 4.0 mm needles for rows 49-60, and finally 3.5 mm needles for rows 61-70?
    Yes, I do t end to knit tighter.

    Thank you for your help.

    Yvonne

    Reply
    • hey yvonne. That’s nothing I can answer you from here. But yes, normally, I would switch needles around as described in the pattern to maintain an even gauge across the whole headband.

      Reply
      • Thank you Norman. Also, thank you for explaining the provisional stitch. I think its a game changer for joining in the round.

        Yvonne

        Reply

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