Easy cable hat pattern

Step-by-step instructions on how to knit a simple cable hat (flat) for beginners

The following hat pattern has been highly requested. While I do have other beanie patterns, most of them involve knitting in the round and are, argueable not utterly beginner-friendly. So, I wanted to fill the gap and create a pattern that looks good but only requires flat knitting/straight needles and no complicated stitches either.

On top of that, I made sure to include a video tutorial where I navigate you through all the important steps, so you can finish your hat regardless of your skill level. Now, please bear in mind that there are limits to how far I can break things down. If you have never knitted a single stitch before, please start with an easier pattern (like a coaster), and then come back to this hat later.

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Materials you need for this pattern

This pattern requires a DK-weight yarn. If you plan to use a different yarn with a different yardage and a different needle size, you will have to make your own adjustments. The central repeat has 10 stitches only, so it should be easy for an experienced knitter. As a beginner, please stick to my recommendation and gauge.

• A nice DK weight yarn with a yardage of 90 meters per 50 grams.
• Knitting needles in size 3 mm (US size 2.5)
• Scissors & a tapestry needle
• A cable needle
• Stitch markers
• A tape measure
• Blocking board

Note: Here’s a tutorial on how to read knitting patterns in case you need to catch up.

Step 1: Knit a Gauge swatch / find out your size

If you want to knit a hat that fits, you need to knit a small gauge swatch. No two knitters are alike, and since you might knit with a looser (or tighter) tension, we first need to make sure we are (or rather knit) on the same page. The swatch will also give you the opportunity to practise the main repeat AND check if your yarn is a good fit.

Instructions for the swatch:

• Cast on 30 stitches with a longtail cast-on
• Row 1 (WS): p2, k2, *p2, k2, p4, k2* (2 times), p2, k2, p2
• Row 2 (RS): k2, p2, *k2, p2, k4, p2* (2 times), k2, p2, k2
• Row 3: p2, k2, *p2, k2, p4, k2* (2 times), p2, k2, p2
• Row 4: k2, p2, *k2, p2, k4, p2* (2 times), k2, p2, k2
• Row 5: p2, k2, *p2, k2, p4, k2* (2 times), p2, k2, p2
• Row 6: k2, p2, *k2, p2, C4F, p2* (2 times), k2, p2, k2
• Repeat these 6 rows 2 more times, then bind off loosely.

Note: C4F stands for Cable (with) Four (stitches, crossed in) Font. It’s the easiest cable stitch. I have a full tutorial on the cable stitch here. It might sound scary, but it’s actually very easy. If you do not want to knit cables, you can skip the C4F and knit 4 (so row 6 would be a repetition of row 2 or 4).

Once finished, please wash and block your swatch. Let it dry overnight. Then, measure your swatch to obtain your gauge.

The central repeat (*k2, p2, k4, p2*) has 10 stitches. Please take your tape, align it with the first purl stitch in the column directly to the left of your cable. Then, count 10 stitches towards the right and measure how many centimeters (or inches) you need to cover these 10 stitches/the central repeat.

My gauge is: 10 st = 3.7cm/1.45 in
(My row gauge is 10 r = 2.8 cm/1.10 in; it’s not really that important for this pattern because you can adjust the height as you see fit)

If your gauge differs significantly, please change the needle size (and or yarn) until it’s the same to ensure your hat has a nice fit.

As an alternative, you can also use your head circumference and divide by your row gauge and then knit the hat in a different size. Here’s an example:

• Your gauge is 10 st = 4.2 cm
• Your head circumference is 59 cm
• 59 cm ÷ 4.2 cm = 14.04
• 14.04 * 10 stitches = 140.4 st

This means you can fit the central repeat 14 times into your head circumference. If you compare it with my size chart, you’d have to knit a size S and cast-on 142 stitches. If your calculation differs to a point where it does not fit into the provided size range, and you are absolutely sure you measured and calculated correctly, you could adjust the pattern yourself.

In this case, round to the nearest number divisible by 10 and then add 2. (so 180 -> 182, 190 -> 192, etc)

Instructions for the hat

For size XS/S/M/L/XL cast on 132/142/152/162/172 stitches with a standard longtail cast-on around two needles.

Important: Leave a tail that is at least 40 cm/16 in long. You will need it for seaming later on. Wind it into a little ball and then use a spare hair clip to attach it to your cast-on edge so it doesn’t get in the way.

• Row 1 (WS): *p2, k2, p4, k2*, p2
• Row 2 (RS): *k2, p2, k4, p2*, k2

Repeat rows 1+2 until your fabric is roughly 6 cm/2.4 in high. For me and my gauge, I need to repeat these two rows 9 more times (so a total of 20 rows knitted), and stop after a right side row.
Note: For a wider brim, please repeat until the desired length. For size XS, you might only go
for 5 cm/2 in, while size XXL might look better with 7 cm/2.75 in.

• Row 21 (WS): knit across the whole row

Note: This row will create a fold line. So, from here, it may appear as if you’re working on the
wrong side – especially the cables. This is working as intended.

• Row 22 (WS): *p2, k2, p4, k2*, p2
• Row 23 (RS): *2, p2, k4, p2*, k2
• Row 24: *p2, k2, p4, k2*, p2
• Row 25: *k2, p2, k4, p2*, k2
• Row 26: *p2, k2, p4, k2*, p2
• Row 27: *k2, p2, C4F, p2*, k2

Repeat rows 22 – 27 until the fabric is ~23/24/25/26/27 cm or 9/9.5/9.8/10.2/10.6 in
high (including the brim) ending with a “wrong side” row. For size M and my gauge, I have to
repeat 12 more times.

If you try on your hat in the making, it should barely cover the crown of your head (see picture
below). If you want a tighter fight, more like a skull cap, then I suggest stopping once barely a whisp of hair is still visible. The following decreases will only add about 2.5 cm/1 in in real height after the seaming and when worn.

Attention: While the repeat includes the cable crosses, they might be in different rows depending on when you started decreasing! Please continue to cable in every 6th row

• Row 101: k2, *p2, k4, p1, k2tog, k1* (119/128/137/146/155 st)
• Row 102: p2, *k1, p4, k2, p2*
• Row 103: *k2, p2, k4, p1*, k2
• Row 104: p2, *k1, p4, k2, p2*
• Row 105: *k1, SSK, p1, C4F, p1*, k2 (106/114/122/130/138 st)
• Row 106: p2, *k1, p4, k1, p2*
• Row 107: *k2, p1, k4 , p1*, k2
• Row 108: p2, *k1, p4, k1, p2*
• Row 109: k2, *p1, k4, k2tog, k1* (93/100/107/114/121 st)
• Row 110: *p2, p4, k1*, p2
• Row 111: k1, *SSK, C4F, k1*, k1 (80/86/92/98/104 st)
• Row 112: purl across
• Row 113: k2, *k4, k2tog* (67/72/77/82/87 st)
• Row 114: purl across
• Row 115: k1, *k3, k2tog*, k1 (54/58/62/66/70 st)
• Row 116: purl across
• Row 117: k1, *k2, k2tog*, k1 (41/44/47/50/53 st)
• Row 118: purl across
  Row 119: k1, *k1, k2tog*, k1 (28/30/32/34/36 st)
• Row 120: purl across
• Row 121: k1, *k2tog*, k1 (15/16/17/18/19 st)

Break the yarn, leaving a tail that is around 20 cm/8 in long. Leave the stitches on your needle for now. If you are working with straight needles, thread the tail on a tapestry needle. Then, slip the stitches over one at a time and remove the knitting needle as you go.

Before you start seaming, I recommend blocking your finished project. It’s easier to block while your hat is still flat, plus it makes seaming a little bit easier since your selvages won’t be
curling anymore.

Once fully dry, you need to join your hat in the round. Before you start seaming, consider using a couple of choice pins to create a provisional seam so you can try on your hat. It’s a lot
easier to unravel the last 20 rows before all tails have been woven in.

Close the seam with the mattress stitch. Use the cast-on tail to close this seam and start on
the right side of the brim. If your tail isn’t long enough, you may also join in a separate length
of yarn (with this second option, there would be two additional tails you need to weave in).

Important: You will have to switch sides when you come to the fold line (created in row 21).
Simply turn your project around and continue as before on the other side.

Once you reach the top, pull on the tail to tighten the seam. Then, massage the seam a little
bit to prevent it from puckering.

Next, pull the yarn through all the remaining stitches on your knitting needle (or stitch holder),
starting from one end. Pull tight, then sew over once.

Weave in the tail on the inside. I typically lightly follow the ridge created by the mattress stitch, and follow it for around 5 cm/2 in.

Helpful tip: Please remember that there is a full video available where you can see me closing
this seam.

Anyway, that was my easy hat pattern for beginners. Please comment below if you need help or if you have any questions!