Easy men’s beanie knitting pattern: Mütze

A simple and free knitting pattern for a men’s beanie suitable for beginners

Sometimes the most simple things are the most gratifying. If you ask me, a knit hat for men doesn’t need a complicated pattern. All you need is great wool in a great color and a bit of patience.

Funnily enough, it’s exactly those basic knitting patterns that are hardest to find – especially for men. So, I figured it’s time to fill that gap and create a design for a basic hipster beanie I want to wear (if you like that approach, make sure to follow me on Instagram). I call it Mütze, which is the German word für “beanie”. A basic word, for a simple pattern. Thought that fit quite well.

Edit: In the meantime, I also published a follow-up pattern called Mütze 2 for a simple cashmere hat.

a close-up of my men's beanie
the finished men's beanie in yellow yarn

Tastes obviously differ, but for me, the perfect ribbed beanie is a tiny bit slouchy and with a little give towards the top. I don’t like it when a hat fits like a skull cap. I am also not a big fan of visible decrease lines towards the top. That’s why I am usually looking for more elaborate solutions (take a look at my beautiful cable knit hat to see what I mean).

wearing my men's hipster knit beanie

For this project, I picked a particular beautiful wool in saffron yellow: The Lana Grossa “Slow Wool Canapa”. It’ a blend of merino wool and 10% hemp. So, it’s soft and still has an interesting texture. At first, I wasn’t all that satisfied with how the stitches turned out, but after blocking, I think it’s a perfect fit. But of course, you are free to pick a Double Knit (DK) wool of your choice.

You will need:

the materials you need for the men's beanie

I am knitting this pattern on smaller needles on purpose, so the ribs look better when stretched.

Note: I earn a small commission for purchases made through links in this article.


The unfolded knit beanie pattern
The way the beanie appears before you fold the brim

This pattern will yield a men’s size M. I decided for a 7cm (2.75 inches) wide folded brim. The final hat is roughly 24cm (9.45 inches) high and wide. Because the fabric is very stretchy, this easily fits a head circumference of 58 centimeters (22.8 inches). Unfolded, the hat is 31 cm (12.2 inches) high.

Gauge: I needed 13 stitches x15 rows for a 5×5 cm swatch in 1×1 rib.

I strongly urge you to measure the head of the recipient and knitting a swatch. Simply adjust the number of cast-on stitches accordingly. A good beanie should fit perfectly, and I can only give you the fundamental instructions here.

I know, a lot of beginners shy away from knitting swatches and testing gauge. But I promise you, the chances that this hat will fit you the way it fits me, at least if you follow these instructions blindly, is like 5 percent. We all knit with different tension, and even the needles you use will be a factor.

!Please pay special attention to the fact that the 1×1 rib gives quite a bit. So, don’t measure the head, knit a swatch, and then just multiply it from there. Factor in the stretchiness. I wanted a circumference of 58 centimeters. So, that would roughly translate to a width of 28 centimeters. My swatch said 13 stitches for 5 cm and that would result in 150 stitches, right?

But since the 1×1 rib gives about 15-20 percent, I only cast on 124.

Depending on how tight or lose you knit, these numbers can and will vary. So, test with a swatch. And maybe even knit a for 10 rounds, fold once, and try it on to see how it looks. You don’t want to stretch the ribs too much (doesn’t look good), but you want a nice fit as well.

The knitting pattern:

knitting the hipster beanie with the magic loop on circular needles

Cast on 127 stitches with a long tail cast on alternating knit and purl stitches (if you don’t know how to cast on, follow this guide, and here’s how to cast on purlwise).

(For a size L, I’d go for 133 stitches, size S 121 stitches.)

Distribute the stitches evenly on your needle set. So, 31 stitches per needle and the last gets 34. (read this guide if you need to brush up knitting in the round on dpns)

Then, slip the first stitch from the first needle onto the fourth needle (which should have 32 stitches) and slip the second stitch over the first (similar to a standard bind off). Then, pull the tail tight slip it back on the first needle. This way, you create a nearly invisible join (here’s a detailed post on how I join knitting in the round). From here start knitting:

  • Round 1: *Knit 1, Purl 1* across all stitches and rows. (so, a 1×1 rib)
  • Round 2: *K1, p1*

Continue knitting this 1×1 rib for 28.5 cm (11.2 inches). For me, that was 84 rows.

And then it’s time to start with the decreases. I am only using k2tog (knit two together) as it’s both the most invisible and easiest decrease. If you knitted the first part with the magic loop technique, I do recommend you to switch to a needle set from here, as it will be easier to knit. That’s what I did. Here’s how to knit in the round on double-pointed needles.

  • Row 85: *K1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1* (105 stitches)
  • Row 86: *k2, p1, k1, p1*
  • Row 87: k1,*k1, p1, k1, k2tog* (84 stitches; the last k2tog uses one stitch from the next round)
  • Row 88: k1, p1, k2,*k2, p1, k2*
  • Row 89: *k2, k2tog, k1* (63 stitches)
  • Row 90: knit across all stitches
  • Row 91: *k2tog, k2* (42 stitches)
  • Row 92: Knit
  • Row 93: K1, *k2tog, k2*, k1 (28 stitches)
  • Row 94: Knit
  • Row 95: *K2tog, k2*, k1 (19 stitches)
  • Row 96: knit
  • Row 97: *K2tog*, k1 (10 stitches)

If you cast on more stitches (or less), then it’s easy to adjust the decreases. What I did is basically decreasing the purl stitches across 6 rows first, and then creating a nice round tip with evenly spaced decreases. You can follow these instructions more or less to the word, as long as you cast on multiples of 6 more (or less) stitches.

Note: Here is a tutorial with 10 tips to knitting in the round like a pro.

Tidying up:

sweaing over the top with a tapestry needle to close the circle / gap

With your last 10 stitches on the needles, cut the yarn leaving a tail of 7 inches. Use a tapestry needle to thread the tail through the stitches, pull tight and sew over once. Then, weave in the end on the inside of the head.

Weaving in the cast on tail of my knit

For the cast on tail, try to weave in the end on the right side (that’s the side that will be on the inside of the brim as you fold it!). I usually thread it once in each direction through one of the ribs and then cut the excess yarn.

I feel that’s the most invisible way to weave in the tails for 1×1 rib (here is how I weave in the ends in greater detail).

The finished result: the weaved in tail is not visible any more
The needle points towards the rib where I weaved in the tail. Almost impossible to spot, right?

And that’s it. Your knitted hipster beanie is now ready to wear. Just fold the brim after around 7 centimeters and you are ready to roll! I don’t sew it in place, though you could do so with yarn in the same color and a few stitches here and there. You could also block it in place, but I just feel it’s not needed. Also, that way you are free to adjust the fit freely.

A profile picture of the men's beanie knitting pattern

Here’s a link to the pattern on Ravelry, just in case you want to add it to your queue or share finished projects with me. I’d be delighted to see your results!

I hope you enjoyed my free men’s beanie knit hat pattern. Feel free to comment with your questions and suggestions!

men's beanie knitting pattern for beginners

20 thoughts on “Easy men’s beanie knitting pattern: Mütze”

  1. Hi! I’m interested to try your reduction method. Also curious about the join, which is one I haven’t tried. But I have questions about the join method. Your instructions say: “Then, slip the first stitch from the first needle onto the fourth needle (which should have 32 stitches) and slip the second stitch over the first (similar to a standard bind off). Then, pull the tail tight slip it back on the first needle.”
    When you say “slip the second stitch over the first”, the first stitch is now on the needle with the last stitches cast on, so do you mean slip the last cast on stitch over the first? Or am I confused?

    • Hey Christina,
      great to hear you want to learn new techniques! That’s a good quality in a knitter.

      You should have two stitches on your right needle. THe first is from the first needle and the second is the last stitch of your cast on. YOu have to pass that last cast on stitch over the first. ANd then slip the remaining stitch back to the first needle.
      So…i guess you were a bit confused. But hey, that’s what asking other knitters is for! 🙂

  2. Hey! I’ve been working on this pattern and have got to row 87, but the problem is I end up with 3 stitches left over, resulting in 88 in total, rather than 84. I don’t know where I’m going wrong, hope you can help!
    I also noticed your pattern instructions are slightly different when downloaded as a pdf, so instead of k1*k1, p1, k1, k2tog,* it reads *k2, p1, k1, k2tog,* which I assume is the right instruction?

    • Hey Katie,

      How you end up with 88 stitches I don’t know. There should be 21 decreases in that row. Every second (remaining) purl stitch is decreased with the following knit stitch. That’S why the repeat is lead by a k1 because you will decrease that stitch with the last k2tog of the row. I’ll fix the instructions for the pdf.

  3. I noticed you mention the yarn you used and that’s the yarn shown in Ravelry. It says worsted weight on Ravelry. But in this pattern you say we can choose any DK yarn we like. So which is it? DK or worsted?

    • Hey Eileen,
      European yarns are not classified in DK or worsted as there is no clear distinction. This yarn comes for needle sizes 5-6 but I’m using a 4 mm which is a typical DK weight needle size or light worsted.

  4. If I cast on 90 stitches, when I get to the reduction the first round works (90 is 6 x 15), the second reducing round would start with 75 stitches, then you knit one and do the reducing repeat *k1, p1, k1, k2tog* which uses 5 stitches. So after I knit one I have 74 stitches left so there is an extra stitch. I know this is hard to type out but the math doesn’t seem to add up. Is there something I am missing?

    • Hey Michael,

      maybe an easier way to picture this is would be like this: Look at 3 ribs next to each other. You should have 3 knit ridges and 3 purl “valleys”.
      And you decrease the first purl valley in row 85. Then you decrease the third purl valley in row 87…and the last remaining in 89.
      So, your mistake is probably that you don’t k2tog that last stitch with the next stitch of the next round.

  5. Hello Norman, I’ve read the other comments but I’m still unsure of what to do at the end of Row 87. There are are not enough stitches to do a k2tog. Do you need to use 1 stitch from the end of Row 87 and one from the beginning of Row 88 for the k2tog? Is a k2tog done at all? If a k2tog is done does it stay at the end of Row 87 or does it become the first knit stitch of the the k2 at the beginning of Row 88? The other problem I’m having with Row 88 is that the p1 doesn’t always line up with being on top of knit stitch and does not create the nice even “v” columns as in the pictures. I look forward to hearing your insights on this.

    • Hey Brenda,
      indeed the last k2tog uses one stitch of the next round. I adapted the pattern a bit to make that a bit clearer for beginners.
      As for your problem in round 88. I’m not entirely sure what you are doing there. But basically, just kit all the stitches the way they appear.

  6. Hello!

    Thank you for sharing your knowledge about knitting. I would like to try using your pattern to make a beanie but I just started to learn how to knit a month ago. Looks like I’m gonna have a challenging knitting journey! 😀

    Anyway, I would like to ask if I can use yarn for 4mm needles. That’s all that’s available here where I’m from. :/

    Thank you!

    Stay safe! 🙂

    • Hey Aryan,

      of course you can knit with a different knitting needle size as well – as long as you knit a swatch and adjust your cast on accordingly.

    • Well..probably.i mean..I don’t like hats with bulky yarn as they end up way too warm and cumbersome and. Also ribbing probably adds too much structure to bulky yarn.


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