How to knit gloves

A step-by-step tutorial on knitting gloves with fingers on double pointed needles for beginners.

There are probably few knitting projects that appear more daunting than gloves. All these small diameter fingers, the double-pointed needles, and of course the small gauge – it sure sounds intimidating. That’s why I put together this very detailed step-by-step tutorial, so I can show you exactly how to knit gloves that fit and bring you joy.

someone wearing yellow knitted gloves
The sample gloves in DK weight yarn I knit in preparation for this pattern
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Now, I want to be very clear from the very beginning. Knitting gloves with fingers is a project for advanced knitters. Not because there are many overly complicated techniques involved. That’s not even the case. The issue lies in working with many stitch holders, picking up stitches proficiently, and maintaining an even gauge (on that note: I do have a super easy pattern for fingerless gloves perfectly suitable for beginners).

very delicate knitted green lace yarn gloves for men with no gaps
A sample I knit in lace weight yarn following the exact same recipe.

That being said, if you know how to knit in the round on double-pointed needles and you are familiar with smaller diameter projects (like socks, etc.), then I’m sure you’ll learn how to knit socks in no time. It only takes a little bit of patience and practice. But it’s probably a project best reserved for intermediate knitters onwards.

Materials you need for knitting gloves:

Note: I earn a small commission for purchases made through links in this article.

materials and tools you need to knit a gloves aligned on a desk

Please note that knitting gloves with circular needles is probably not really possible. I’m sure there are knitters out there who finished a single pair using the magic loop technique but I would say that sounds a bit like torture and it’s much easier to overstress seams. If you need some help, here are 10 tips for better results when knitting with double-pointed needles. You can, however, easily knit the body of the gloves (up until the fingers) using circular needles.

Step 1: Figure out your size

someone calculating the size of a knitted glove with a tape and a note pad

If you want to knit a hat, you have it super easy as head sizes are actually remarkably uniform – close to one size fits all. Hands and fingers, on the other hand, show a very wide range of sizes, lengths, and configurations up to a point where I would say no two hands are alike.

So, I personally think that figuring out your own size is much easier and more rewarding than following a glove chart or pattern. Here’s how to do that.

A) Knit a simple swatch

Your first step is knitting a simple swatch. Even if you follow a pattern, you would have to do this to get gauge. So it might sound tedious but there’s just no way around it.

  • Cast on enough stitches to create a swatch that is at least 7 cm/3 in wide;
  • Knit across in stockinette stitch until your swatch is at least 7 cm/3 in high
  • Bind off, then wash & block your swatch.

Here’s a more detailed post on knitting swatches. You may consider doing a proper in the round swatch but as that swatch would be almost as big as your whole cuff, I don’t see how this makes a lot of sense.

B) Measure your swatch

Next, you have to figure out your row and stitch gauge. I recommend measuring the swatch while it’s still pinned to the blocking mat. Make sure that you stretch it out to the point where the fabric looks the way you want it to look in your finished project.

Then use a tape, a ruler, or a special gauge ruler and count how many stitches you need to cover 5 cm/2 in a row (i.e. your stitch gauge), and how many rows you need to cover the same 5 cm/2 in following a column of knit stitches (i.e. your row gauge).

C) Measure your hands

Next, you have to measure your hands. You need the following three numbers:

  • Circumference of your hand at the knuckle of your thumb (i.e widest point)
  • Distance from your wrist to the crook of your thumb
  • Circumference of your hand above the crook of your thumb

Note: If your hands are significantly different in size or shape, you would have to do this for both of them.

D) Calculate your size

Next, you have to do a very simple calculation to find out your cast-on requirements.

  1. Find out your stitch gauge: Divide the number of stitches you counted by the length you measured. E.g 14 st / 5 cm = 2.8 st/cm
  2. Find out your row gauge: Divide the number of rows you counted by the length you measured. E.g. 17 st / 5 cm = 3.4 st/cm

Using these numbers, you can easily calculate the cast-on requirements and your thumb gusset.

Cast-on = circumference of your hand above the crook of your thumb multiplied with your stitch gauge. E.g. 2.8 st/cm * 17 st = 47.8 stitches.
Round to the nearest number divisible by 4 stitches.

Step 2: Knitting the cuff of the glove

the cast on for gloves with fingers with several stitches already on the knitting needle

Once you are finished with the preparations, you can start knitting your gloves. Typically, your wrists and forearms are much thinner than your hands but the latter obviously need to fit through the cuff without too much squeezing. That’s why I recommend using a stretchy pattern for the cuff with lots of negative ease. A 2×2 rib stitch is perfect.

  • Cast on the required number of stitches using a stretchy cast-on of your choice. I alternate a German twisted cast-on with a longtail purl cast-on (always two stitches of each) but some may prefer a tubular cast-on.
  • Round 1: *k2, p2*
  • Round 2: *k2, p2*
  • Continue in the 2×2 rib stitch for at least 5 cm/2 in. If you want a folded cuff for an extra snugg fit, knit for at least 12 cm / 5 in.

Tip: You may consider using one needle size smaller for the cuff – especially if you have rather slim forearms. As I prefer to knit gloves with a very tight gauge anyway, I don’t see it is needed. Also, up until the start of the pinky finger (see below), it doesn’t matter if you knit with double-pointed needles or circular.

knitting the cuff of a glove with double pointed knitting needles

You may knit a longer cuff. Do keep in mind that the maximum distance you can cover without increases is determined by your cast-on. So, when the circumference of your forearm exceeds the circumference of the palm of your hands, that’s where you need to stop (or start with more stitches and gradually decrease towards the wrists).

Important: Once you finished knitting the cuff, I recommend trying things on for the first time. So slip your stitches to a spare bit of scrap yarn or circular needles and try your gloves in the making on and see if things feel about right and you can fit your hands through. The cuff will always be a bit loose but it shouldn’t be too tight or too loose either.

Step 3: Thumb Gusset

Once you are satisfied with the length of your cuff, it’s time to start knitting the thumb gusset. You need to do some more calculations to find out how many stitches you need to increase.

Thumb gusset = Multiply the circumference of your hand at the knuckle of your thumb with your stitch gauge. E.g. 2.8 st/cm * 24 st = 67.2 st.

Round that number up to the next number divisible by 2 and you know how many stitches you need to have on your needles when you reach the crook of your thumb.

someone doing the calculations for the thumb gusset of a glove

Gusset increases:

You will also have to calculate how to distribute the increases. So, starting from your wrist, your glove needs to get wider to accommodate the thumb but you only have a small distance to squeeze in the increases.

  1. Multiply your row gauge with the distance from your wrist to the crook of your thumb.
    E.g. 7 cm * 3.4 rows/cm = 23.8 rows
  2. Substract the thumb gusset stitches from your cast-on. E.g. 68 st – 48 st = 20 st

And the rest is simple. You have 24 rows to increase by 20 stitches. Now you simply have to distribute the increases evenly. E.g. increase by two stitches every two rows with two buffer rows before and after the increase.
Tip: You may use graph paper to figure this out as well.

someone starting to knit the thumb gusset with the help of stitch markers

Before you start, divide your stitches evenly to all four needles. Attach a stitch marker to the beginning of your round.

  • Round 1 +2: knit across in stockinette stitch.
  • Round 3: k2/3/4*, place a stitch marker, KLL, k1, KRL, place a stitch marker, knit across the rest of the round (you may use any other left- and right leaning increase of your choice instead).
    *dk/fingering/light fingering
  • Round 3: knit across.
  • Round 4: k2/3/4, slip marker, KLL, knit until you reach the second marker, remove the marker, KRL, place the stitch marker anew, knit across the rest of the round.
  • Round 5: knit across.
  • Round 6 – x: continue increasing evenly in that manner and according to your thumb gusset calculations.

Instructions for the Left hand:

me wearing the finished glove knitting pattern

Most people have a different left- and right hand. So, you do need to place the base of your thumb gusset a bit differently for the left hand like this:

Round 3*: Knit across until you are 3/4/5 stitches before the end of the round, place a stitch marker, KLL, k1, KRL, place a stitch marker, k2/3/4.

From here, continue increasing according to your calculations after and before these two stitch markers.

Important: Do not shuffle stitches around from one needle to another as you knit the thumb gusset or place a stitch marker at the exact middle of your first round (i.e. after the second needle). This will mark the spot where you will start the pinky finger later on. If you shuffle stitches around, your thumb placement won’t work out.

the finished thumb gusset of a glovev with fingers

Step 4: Knitting the palm

Remember that you can try your project on at any time. And you should definitely check if your glove in the making reaches the crook of your thumb once you are finished with your thumb gusset. If it doesn’t, knit across until it does. Also, check if the glove fits around your hand without stretching the fabric overly much but without puckering or excess fabric.

Once, satisfied, you can continue the palm like this:

  • Preparation: Secure all stitches between the stitch markers using a bit of scrap yarn, stitch holders, a bit of wire, or a spare circular needle. Keep the rest of the stitches on the needles.
  • Round 1: Knit across until you come to the gap. Then, turn your project around and use a knitted cast-on purlwise to bridge the gap. Cast on 3 stitches in that manner, and knit across the rest of the round.
  • Round 2: Knit across.
  • Continue in stockinette stitch until the glove reaches the crook between pinky and ring finger.

Note: Depending on your personal preferences, you may consider casting on more than just three stitches to bridge the gap. In this case, keep the stitch markers before and after the gap. Then decrease with SKK after the first marker and K2tog before the second marker in every second or third round until there are only three stitches left.

This will create a little gusset that may lend your gloves a bit more flexibility in the thumb area but will look a bit less smooth/neat. For people with a very strong ball of the thumb, this can improve the fit. You will have to do the same on the other side, i.e. the thumb. as well.

Step 5: Pinky Finger

From here, you have to start with the pinky finger. Before you can do that, you have to do a quick calculation to figure out how many stitches are reserved for which finger. I use this schema for DK weight yarn:

  • Pinky gets 1/4th of the original cast-on stitches
  • The ring finger gets 1/4th minus 1
  • Middle finger gets 1/4th plus 1
  • Index finger gets 1/4th plus 2 more stitches
  • In my expample that’s 12/11/13/14 stitches

Important: The correct way to do this, and that’s the path you would have to follow if your hands look significantly different than mine and/or you have more or fewer digits.

  1. Use a tape to measure the circumference of each finger at it’s base and multiply the number times the your stitch gauge per cm or inch. That’s the number of stitches you need for each finger.
  2. Measure the width of each finger right at the base. For the outer digits, you have to add the distance to the center of the side of the hand (as you cannot pick up or cast on stitches here) and divide that with the total width of your hands right at the base.
  3. Use a simple cross-multiplication to distribute the stitches you already have on your needle evenly according to the portion each finger uses up.
  4. Substract these stitch portions from the numbers you need for each finger. You will have to cast-on/pick up the remainer of the stitches.
someone starting to knit the pinky finger of the gloves

Either way, then you can start knitting the pinky finger:

  • Preparation: The end of the second needle should mark the center of your original cast-on. Divide the stitches required for your pinky finger into two equal parts and slip the stitches to either side of the center to two separate needles. If your number is not divisiable by two, the back needle gets one more stitch.
    Secure the rest of stitches on a piece of scrap yarn, stitch holders, or a bit of wire.
  • Round 1: Knit across, start a new needle two stitches before the gap, and bridge the gap by turning the work to the wrong side and casting on 3/4/5* stitches purlwise, the continue knitting across.
    *dk/fingering/light fingering or whatever your calculations said.
  • Round 2: Knit across.
  • Continue in stockinette stitch until the fabric almost covers your pinky finger and there’s not much more than two or three milimeters of skin/nail peeking out at the top.
  • Decrease round 1: *k2tog* (if you have an uneven number of stitches, only knit the last stitch).
  • Decrease round 2: Knit across.
  • Finish by breaking the yarn leaving a tail of 24 cm /10 in, thread it on a tapestry needle, and pull the tail through all remaining stitches on your needles. Remove the knitting needle as you go. Pull tight, sew over once, and secure the tail inside/on the wrong side.
the spot where I stop knitting the fingers of a glove with only a little bit of skin (like 2mm) peeking out at the top

Fit adjustments: First of all, I recommend trying the glove/finger on before you weave in. Just catch the stitches, pull tight, and try it on. That way, you can easily re-do the tip if it’s still a bit too tight or too loose. I found that it’s often just one round too much can feel too roomy and one round too less a bit tight. So, don’t hesitate to redo the section.

Also, if you notice that the whole finger needs more room, then you would have to unravel and cast-on more stitches to bridge the gap. This can be needed for people who have a bit thicker fingers. If you are aware of this fact you might want to cast on 5/7 stitches instead right from the start.

Step 6: Other fingers

someone knitting the ring finger of gloves with double pointed knitting needles

Next, you have to start knitting the other fingers of the gloves. I personally prefer to start with the thumb as it prevents those stitches along the gusset from wearing out too much from frequently trying things on. Still, in keeping with the gloves knitting tradition, you’d have to knit the fingers next. This is how:

someone the right place to pick up stitches from the gap for the fingers of gloves
This is how I pick up the first two stitches.

Preparation: Transfer all stitches for the fingers from the stitch holder back to the knitting needles.

Round 1: Use a crochet hook (or your knitting needles) to pick up one stitch for every stitch knit stitch V on the edge you cast on to bridge the gap. To avoid a gap or a visible transition, I actually recommend starting in the middle. This will be one more stitch than you cast on!
Then, pick up one more stitch from the gap. Either through the second knit stitch of the gap or by knitting a KLL into the stitch adjacent to the next full knit stitch on the next needle.

Then, and knit across a full round across the whole hand. Last, pick up one more stitch from the gap (I typically do a K1tog LL) and pick up the remaining two stitches from the edge (download the pattern for more pictures or watch the video).

Round 2: Knit across the first set of picked up stitches but decrease the last stitch you picked up from the cast-on edge and the extra stitch you picked up from the gap using a k2tog. Then, continue knitting across until you reach the extra stitch you picked up from the gap on the other side and SSK it with the following stitch.

(Round 3+4): Depending on the configuration of your hand and the yarn you are using, you may have to knit across one or two full rounds. In my experience 3 are needed for fingering and 4 for light fingering yarn. Typically, the crook between pinky and ring finger is a bit lower than the crooks between the rest of your fingers and this is to accommodate this.

Round 3/4/5: Slip the stitches not required for the ring finger back to the scrap yarn/stitch holder/wire. Then knit across and bridge the gap by casting on 3/4/5 stitches with a knitted cast-on purlwise or however many your calculations said.

Continue knitting in stockinette stitch until your knitting almost covers the tip – just like you did for the pinky finger.

Decrease round 1: *k2tog* (if you have an uneven number of stitches, only knit the last stitch).
Note: If you are working with more than 24 stitches, I recommend decreasing to 24 stitches one round before by scatting k2tog evenly across the round.

Decrease round 2: Knit across.

Break the yarn, thread the tail on a tapestry needle, and secure the stitches as before.

Middle finger & index finger

knitted glove in dk weight yarn on a wooden table

The middle and index finger are knit in the exact same way. The only difference is that you don’t need to knit across the full round anymore as typically the rest of the crooks are on the same level.

Round 1: Begin by picking up one stitch for every V of the edge starting in the middle, pick up one more stitch from the gap, knit across, cast on 3/4/5 stitches, knit across, pick up one more stitch from the gap, and then pick up a stitch for each of the remaining Vs.

Round 2: Knit across and decrease the gap stitches with SSK and k2tog on either side.

From here, continue in stockinette stitch as before, start with the decreases once the fabric almost covers the top, and secure the tail as before.

Do the same for the index finger. Obviously, you can’t/don’t have to cast on any extra stitches as there is no gap to bridge.

Step 7: Thumb

close up shot of someone knitting the thumb of a glove

The traditional last step of knitting a glove is the thumb. The technique is the exact same as for the fingers, so you won’t face any new problems here.

  • Round 1: Start picking up stitches from the middle of the edge, pick up one more stitch from the gap, knit across, pick up one stitch from the gap, and pick up the last stitch from the edge to close the round.
  • Round 2: Knit across
  • Continue knitting across in stockinette stitch until you reach the joint.

Most thumbs get gradually narrower towards the tips and this will leave a bit of spare fabric that might be a bit annoying when you try to actually use your thumb (like picking something up, etc). To combat that, you can knit a little gusset here like this:

  • Preparation: Put your gloves on and identify the middle of your thumb pad. Then place stitch markers 3/4/5 stitches before and after the middle stitch.
  • Round 1: Knit across, slip marker, SSK, knit across until 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, finish round.
  • Round 2: knit across
  • Continue decreasing after and before the marker until there are only 3 stitches between the stitch marker left.

From here, you can continue knitting across in stockinette stitch until the fabric almost covers the tip of your thumb and you can finish the way you did before.

Step 8: Weaving in & Blocking your glove

someone weaving in the tails of the knitted glove with a sharp tapestry needle going diagonally

Last, but certainly not least, you need to finish your gloves. There will be quite a lot of tails on the inside, of your glove and you need to weave them in. I have a full tutorial on weaving in ends here on my blog, so I trust you will read it if you need help or want to see how I do it.

the finished glove on a blocking board to improve the stitch definition with pins stretching the fabric in either direction
The finished glove on the blocking mats

You might also want to block your finished gloves. This will typically improve your overall stitch definition. So, soak them gently in lukewarm water adding a bit of mild soap for about 30 minutes. Then wring them out equally gently between a towel and pin the dry-to-the-touch gloves to a soft surface without overstretching. Let them dry overnight, remove the pins and enjoy your gloves!

a pair yellow knitted gloves with fingers on a wooden board with knitting tools in the background

Here at the end, I do want to mention one more thing. Knitting gloves takes a lot of experience and patience. Especially around the gaps, you often end up overstretching stitches, and the less experienced you are, the more typically wear out those stitches. You can use a spare needle or a tapestry needle to redistribute the slack carefully.

Still, kindly don’t be too harsh on yourself if your first glove doesn’t look perfect. Take notes, try to identify those areas you can improve, and try to find solutions. You cannot expect everything to be perfect on your first try. But that doesn’t mean you cannot be proud of your achievement or that your gloves will keep you warm. The snowflakes won’t notice a wrong stitch here or there, big promise!

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Anyway, that’s how to knit gloves. Comment below in case you need help.

42 thoughts on “How to knit gloves”

  1. I have been looking for such a detailed explanation for some time now. Thank you!!
    Do you have any tips or maybe a tutorial on how to avoid ladders in your knitting? They are a real eyesore for me and I can’t seem to find a way around them.

  2. OMG πŸ™ˆ Going to go through the pattern again, maybe I was just to happy to finally get this great pattern I totally missed it πŸ˜ŠπŸ™ˆ

  3. Thank you Norman for this detailed pattern. I tried it before but I was so disappointed with the results that I unravelled everything… Might just give it another try with your directions, they are very clear and well explained.
    Kind regards

  4. Dear Norman, My mom taught me to knit but I never really “knew” about knitting. I couldn’t read my own knitting or correct mistakes. I would hand the project to my mom or my aunt, they would fix it then hand it back. But, they never taught me how to see or fix my own mistakes. My mom passed away a couple of summers ago and in my missing her, I only had “head-space” to knit simple things. Well, even simple things require some relearning so I have been learning and learning and learning from YouTube. I cannot thank you enough for all the education that you are providing through your blog and videos. I have been able to learn! Your explanations are so thorough and the language in your spoken and written sentences is so precise that one can’t help but become a better knitter. You mention simple things that should be obvious, like when changing an errored k to p or p to k you place the bar of yarn in the front for purl and in back for knit. Seems obvious, right, because when knitting along you hold the yarn in front for purl and in back for knit. I just didn’t make this connection on my own without your instruction. Please accept my sincere thanks. Because your work is so very good, I feel like a bit of a dope to mention errors but you invited feedback so here are my observations. In reading the downloaded version of your glove recipe pattern I noticed a couple of typos (I’m a speech pathologist so it’s my job). The typos are in the introduction and don’t affect the pattern at all. In paragraph 1, the first word “gloves” should be capitalized. In paragraph 2 consider changing tutorials to tutorial making it singular to agree with the singular word “this”. In paragraph 3 add the word “in” to the sentence “holes IN this spot”. As you see, these errors make no difference in the pattern and are just minor tweaks. Sometimes I feel that the flow and lilt of a person’s writing style is the actual person coming through the page. Maybe correcting the errors changes the person’s “voice” and maybe the writing should be left as is. In any case, thank you again for all you do. Your blog mentions that you spent most of January on this glove project. I have done some talks for my quilting guild and have spent anywhere from 25 to 40 hours preparing a 30 minute power-point presentation that is mostly photos and just a little bit of text. I can only imagine the hours and days that went in to preparing this very professionally done glove project. Cheers and best wishes for success in all you do.

    • thank you for sharing your lovely feedback with me. And i am always happy to correct little typos – especially if they are so apparent and those.

  5. Hi,
    Love the detailed knit in the round gloves but I don’t seem to be receiving the confirmation email from you that allows me to download the pattern.
    I have tried a number of times but getting nothing and no, it’s not in junk/spam.
    Can you help?

    • I don’t think so. Other than, send me an email so I can reply and you whitelist my email dress & check your spam folder, there is little I can do.

  6. Hi Norman,
    You give such great information here!
    Can you elaborate a little more about how you pick up stitches in the gap between the existing stitches and the picked up stitches at the bottom of the fingers? I am struggling to picture what stitches you mean when you say “Either through the second knit stitch of the gap or by knitting a KLL into the stitch adjacent to the next full knit stitch on the next needle.” Also, how does a stitch get picked up (added) when you knit a K1tog LL when you come around the hand to the other side?
    Thank you!

    • Cherie, there’s a video on my youtube channel that goes along with this pattern and if you download the pattern, there are step by step instructions as well. It sounds like you did not have a loot at these yet.

  7. Hi,
    Thank you for such wonderful in depth tutorials and patterns. I have a query about the stitch count maths for the glove fingers.

    I’ve knitted a swatch, figured out my guage and successfully knit up to the pinky finger. However, I’m a bit confused about the stitch counts for the subsequent fingers. Here’s my numbers:
    Palm stitches (before fingers/after thumb): 58

    Pinky 25% of palm (20 stitches required; 12 picked up, 8 CO).
    I understand everything up to this point. It’s the next bit that confuses me:

    Ring 25% of palm (22 stitches required; 14 picked up, 8 to CO/pickup). If I pick up all the stitches where I bridged the gap for the pinky finger, then when I bridge the gap I’ll have too many for the finger? i.e. 7+7 from the orginal CO, 8 from pinky finger gap, then 8 to bridge ring finger gap (30 total not 22).

    If I only pick up 4 from the ring finger then there’ll be odd gaps? Or do I pick up the 8 from the pinky, then K2TOG on the next round to make the maths work?

    Any advice would be appreciated!!

    • Hey Tara,
      if you download the pattern there are some more elaborate explanations. Maybe this will help.
      In this case, I would probably do
      pinky: 14, CO 4
      ring: 13, pick up 5 (decrease 1 in next round), co 4
      middle 15, pick up 5 (dec 1), co4
      index: 16, pick up 5 (dec 1)

      now obviously, the number of stitches you need to cast on to bridge the gap will depend on the size of your fingers. But i would say you are trying to cast on too many stitches for the pinky. and you do not pick up any stitches for it as well.

  8. If one is already subscribed to your newsletter, one cannot download the pdf of any of your patterns. How can one do that?
    Thank you for the detailed instructions.

    • New patterns (like this one) will be added to my patreon account. So, you are more than welcome to subscribe to it on the highest tier where you’ll get access to the other patterns (or a lot of them).

  9. Hi Norman, just wanted to let you know that I finished a pair of mittens, and I refered to your blog a few times in the project notes on Ravelry. My thumb was different than yours in these instructions, but I tried ‘your’ thumb in the past, and it did ‘unlock’ something in me that equipped me to confidently improvise for my thumb for my latest project. I can’t really explain it, but it kind of took the fear out of it and taught me to go by eye… I also used and linked to your ‘grafting in rib’ instructions. (fyi All the best for 2023 and good health to you and your loved ones!

  10. Hi, Norman;

    I didn’t use your pattern for gloves, but for mittens. It’s just the same, but ending the fingers at the first knuckle.
    Actually, I’ve just finished the first mitten and I’d like to send a picture, but I don’t know where. I know it’s not perfect (not stretchy enough, some eyelets in the gusset, the index finger length miscalculated…), but it makes me very happy, for the time I used on it and for the warm in my hand while I type this.
    I’ll go on practicing to perfect it.
    Thank you very much,

  11. Hello!

    I did the proper calculations for the fingers and it gave me a negative number when I subtracted the stitch portions from the number of stitches I need on the middle and ring fingers. What do I do?


    • How would I know what you did Jackson, if you don’t include your calculations? It could be because your gauge is off and the palm of your gloves is way too big or you measured wrong or you did the calculations wrong.

      • I’m working in inches with medium weight yarn. The stich gage is 4.5 and the row gage is 6.5. I currently have 30 stitches on my needles, 28 from the circumference of her hand above the thumb plus 2 for bridging the thumb. Her finger circumference measured , from pinky to pointer, 2, 2.25, 2.25, 2.5. The width of her fingers at the base measured 7/8, 3/4, 3/4, 7/8. The base of her hand measures 2.5. When I measure the base of the hand, am I measuring the wrist or where the wrist and hand join? In this case I did the hand side of the join. With these numbers i got 9 stitches needed on the pinky, with the proportion being 10.5

        • I am not sure I can follow these calculations. My guess is, that your gauge reading is off and your glove possibly too tight on top of that. it’s mathematically impossible to arrive at a negative number because the sum of the circumference of your fingers cannot be lower than the circumference of your palm of your hand – except there are missing digits, smaller fingers than normal etc. If that is the case, you would have to decrease in the first round(s) of the fingers.

          • I’m also unsure, as the rest fits rather nicely. Oh well, I appreciate the help and will reply if I figure out what I did. Thank you!

          • Hi Norman,
            I, too, am getting a negative number for my pinky finger. While it’s true that the total width of the fingers won’t (usually) be lower than the width of the hand, for me it appears to be more about the number of stitches needed vs the number of stitches I already have on the needle. Here are my calculations (gauge = 7 st/in):

            Fingers – stitches needed (using circumference measurements):
            Index thru Ring = 2.5″ (each) * 7 st/in = 17.5 st needed
            Pinky = 2″ * 7 st/in = 14 st needed

            Fingers – % of hand width (using width measurements):
            Middle & Ring: 0.75″/3.5″ = 21%
            Index & Pinky: 1″/3.5″ = 29%

            # of stitches to use from needle:
            M & R: 21%*52 st = 10.9 st
            I & P: 29%*52 st = 15.0 st (which is 1 MORE than the 14 st I need…hence, I get -1 when I subtract what I have from what I need)

            Any and all thoughts/suggestions are welcome! I really want to figure this out, as I love what you’ve done to create this flexible pattern for any size. I am also open to the possibility that I’m overthinking it. πŸ™‚

            Thank you for all you do.

          • Well there can always be rounding errors as you obviously cannot knit half a stitch. Make sure, however, to use the actual gauge of your work in progress to figure things out and not necessarily the swatch you’ve knitted at the beginning.
            It will always be a little bit off.
            At the end of the day, if you are reasonably sure both your measurements and your gauge are correct, maybe that’s how your hands are…some hands do taper off a bit starting at the pinky finger.
            That being said, you are comparing two measurements
            The total circumference of your pinky finger vs the width + the side. And I absolutely cannot see how the second number could be higher.

  12. Heyya Norman!

    Love this. It’s my current WIP. I’m knitting the left and right simultaneously so that I don’t end up making one nicer/straighter/prettier than the other. That, and as I figure out bits here and there, I don’t have to remember to apply those to the “other” glove when I arrive at those along the way.

    Anyway, in the video (at the 19:50 mark) you said, “And don’t worry, if you get things wrong the first time, you can place a lifeline here at the base of this [wrist] so you can easily redo this section.”

    I’ve been knitting since I was 7 years old. And I’ve never heard of a lifeline. Can you elaborate? What is it? Where is it? How is it? Etc?

    Thanks a bunch,


  13. With that comment about the snowflakes noticing wrong stitches, I’m just imagining a snowflake being like “Wait hold on what is this, they have some ladders here.” and just aiming for that gap

  14. hi dear noman
    thank you a lot for you detailed and clear patterns. i’m knitting this gloves and i’m at the beginning of pinky finger. i’ve began the thumb at the beginning of my row, after three stitches. as you said the pinky finger lying in middle of the row. so reaching this point, i should kint half row and then knit the pinky finger. is this correct?! just knit half row? or i should cut the yarn and join it in middle row to start the finger? it seems you don’t cut yarn. i wonder if i knit semi row, it wouldn’t creat a difference lenght of front and back of my work?

    • No, don’t cut the yarn. kit half the row.
      Yes it will create a tiny little step but that will be utterly unnoticeable later on – except you are using super chunky yarn.

      • thank you for your reliefing answer, and no, i’m not using chunky yarn. actually i’m knitting with a turkish yarn (nako baby) and 3.5 mm tpns.
        in the way of my knitting i face another problem: at the beginning of knitting fingers, i picked up one stitch in each side gap (kll and krl), but the result wasn’t satisfying. it seems not tidy. could i pick up two stitch each side?

  15. Dear Norman,

    I started trying to knit about two years ago and it took a while just to get my fingers to work. I generally crochet but there are knitting projects I wanted to try. Such as gloves because I felt crochet wouldn’t always do them justice. My first small project was a metered square. I felt it was a good way to practice one kind of stitch and gradually get used to changing it for another. Then I tried some ribbing which has taken me a while. I had trouble remembering which stitch to do next and wasn’t good at reading my work. Then as I happened to get knitting looms, I started to understand more about how to tell the difference between knit and purl. I made a sock once with a sock loom. Sadly, this is where I learned the value of wool for socks. Still, I felt more confident in understanding aspects that I am still new to but am less afraid of being down on needles later down the line. These are the Kitchener stitch and short rows. I’m still a bit worried about socks on needles but have felt more ready for gloves. I am not sure if that is backward thinking or not. Currently, I am redoing my first glove. I am making them for my son at his request. But I needed to redo the first because while the first was great, it was not well fit for the side of the forefinger. And I wasn’t sure how to adjust it after the fact. So far, this second attempt feels better. Especially since I downloaded the PDF and took time to make better measurements and write down numbers for stitches. I am not a fast crafter even in crochet or cross stitch. But I liked these gloves and wanted to try them even if I might be jumping the gun a little. I just can’t bring myself to do odd little projects to build skills because I most likely won’t feel the need to make a potholder or dish rag. Unless a nice design finds its way to me. Thank you for all the nice videos I have watched. I may not have yet made a pattern by you, but I hope the gloves will be my first. I know you have a sock pattern and I have that saved for when my son’s foot finally decides to stop growing. With my luck, I’d finish and they’d already be too small.

  16. Hey norm! I have a questioni ( i should had asked this before) ho many stitches do i have to knit in the increase section if my cast on Number Is less than 40? Thanks Luke πŸ™‚

    • I am not entirely sure how you feel I should answer this? I mean, you have to run your measurements through the calculations. I couldn’t do anything else myself (but you didn’t provide them).

      • In the senso: in the pattern It says knit 2/3/4*, and the asterisco section It says cast on Number between 40-50/51-60/60+st
        My cast on Number Is 36 st: how many stitches do i have to knit in the increase section before the stitch markers? Thanks. Luke =)

        • that entirely depends on your gauge and the circumference of your fingers. those numbers are just a general suggestion. Some people have super thick fingers others super slim. Use your gauge (swatch) and it’s easy to figure out with a tape.
          Or add 2 and unravel if necessary.

  17. I am trying this pattern. I have knitted lots of socks on DPNs and am hoping I can knit gloves with this very detailed pattern and video tutorial. I have spent two days trying to get the gauge correct. I am using Shepherd’s Wool from Michigan. It says it is a worsted spun fine wool. I knitted a scarf with it and really like the softness. I have knitted two swatches with #3 and #2 needles and am still only getting 11+ stitches and 16 rows (#2 needles) in 2 inches (5 cm) and 12 stitches with 15.5 rows (#3 needles). My swatches are 4×4. I will try #1 needles. Norman, do you think I should give up and just use a DK yarn?


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