A stunning shawl pattern for intermediate knitters – test-knitted and tech-edited
Abraxas is an effortlessly elegant shawl knitted in stockinette stitch with stunning mosaic details providing that certain something and an entertaining knitting experience. The simple triangular construction makes the pattern approachable to a wide audience while providing smart solutions to achieve a refined look with seamless transitions and impeccable details.
The test-knitted and tech-edited pattern comes with 10 illustrated pages, detailed line-by-line written instructions, and super simple charts for the mosaic sections. A video is included to help you navigate the more challenging parts of the pattern. Tutorials are available for all other knitting techniques if you need to catch up.
Materials you need to finish this shawl
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I knitted two versions of this shawl to prove that my pattern works very well for a wide variety of yarn. Decide for yourself, if you prefer an overall smooth look or prefer a warmer and slightly fuzzier yarn. Here’s what you need.
- A thicker fingering weight yarn with a nice stitch definition. For my samples, I used 3 skeins of the Wollmeise Pure (100 g = 350 m/383 yds) in the colors black, natural, and tulip (altogether 1295 m/1417 yds or 140/129/100 g). For the other sample in the Zealana Kauri (40 g=153m/167 yds) in the colors dark tepo, green peka, and kea (altogether 320 g or 1224 m/1338 yds or 140/85/100g).
- Circular knitting needles with a long cable (at least 100 cm/40 in) in size 2.5mm (Wollmeise) or 3.00mm (Zealana Kauri).
- A tapestry needle and scissors
- Stitch markers
- A blocking board & pins
- (optional) A fine crochet hook for picking up stitches
In my opinion, this pattern works best if you pick at least one high-contrast (semi-)solid color (e.g. black, dark purple, white, etc) to ensure that the mosaic panels really pop. However, nothing speaks against picking one or even two beautiful colorways to spice things up.
Knitting techniques
Difficulty: Intermediate knitter
Time: ~40-80 hours
Overall, this shawl is quite straightforward to knit employing simple techniques that should be quite accessible to an advanced beginner. Most of it is stockinette stitch with a bit of garter stitch in between. Mosaic knitting is the easiest way to do colorwork and does not require working with two colors at the same time. However, due to the fine gauge and the sheer size of the project, my Abraxas shawl is possibly be more rewarding for intermediate knitters.
Here’s what you need to know:
- K = knit
- P = Purl
- KLL = Knit left loop
- KRL = Knit right loop
- longtail cast-on
- Latvian Braid
- i-cord bind-off
Also, please be aware that part of the edge needs to be picked up towards the end of shawl – at least if you want a border in ribbing all the way around. Of course, that part can be skipped according to your preferences.
Size & Gauge
My sample with the Wollmeise yarn is 160 x 80 cm (63 x 31.5 in). The Zealanna Kauri version ended up being 210 x 95 cm (82 x 38 in) after blocking.
Blocked gauge 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) in st st:
- Version a) 26 st x 43 r
- Version b) 23 st x 40 r
Note: This gauge was obtained from the finished & blocked object. Due to the triangular shape, the row and stitch gauge is bound to be slightly distorted when compared to a square swatch.
Overall, it’s quite a big and cozy shawl – perfect to keep you warm in autumn. You can easily adjust the size by skipping the last one or two stripes before the border. Experienced knitters may also adjust the size of the individual stripes. This will change the look of the mosaic panels since the repeat has been optimized on the edges and in the center for a precise stitch count.
Overall, the Abraxas shawl is a wonderful pattern that finds a good balance between interesting/challenging bits and sections where you can simply sit in front of the TV and knit along. The repeat/construction is quite intuitive while still paying attention to the fine details.
In fact, that is the very reason why I knitted my own pattern three times. With each iteration I optimized details like the border, the central increase line, or the transitions within the mosaic panels to achieve a pattern that looks neat & perfect and is still easy and pleasant to knit.
I would kindly note that subscribers on the highest tier of my Patreon account get this (and many other) pattern for free. Also, kindly understand that I never offer any discount codes.
Anyway, that’s my shawl pattern “Abraxas”. Comment below if you have any questions.
Congratulations on your beautiful new pattern! I can’t wait to knit it myself. I’m already planning colors…
Thanks for this pattern, Norman. I just purchased my yarns and have started the project. I’ve done mosaic technique before, but it has been some time so i went back review it. In your advanced mosaic tips you mention going up one needle size for mosaic when it is part of a project, but you do not mention that here. Should I go up a needle size for those two sections?
Ellen, kindly don’t aks the same question twice simply because I haven’t replied promptly. I live in a different time zone. thank you for your understanding.
Sorry! I thought that I had not clicked submit; I do that sometimes. I am on the second color B block and about to start the Latvian Braid. Just watched your video on it and am looking forward to a technique that is completely new to me, and thinking that I will incorporate it into my next sweater. I really love the look!
Thanks for this beautiful pattern! I am just a bit confused about the yarn requirements. For the Wollmeise, you say three 100g balls with meterage 350m but you are using 12,915m in total or 140g / 69g /120g of each colour so do you need 2 balls of colour A, 1 ball of colour B and 2 balls of colour C? And which colour is A (black?), B and C? The same question goes to the lovely Zealana yarn. Thanks for clarifying this!
In parentheses is the yardage not the yardage of these specific balls. YOu can use this to find a similar yarn. On the label, you typically also will find the yardage in yards/meters per 100g.
The Wollmeise hanks are 150grams. I, at least, only needed one skein each.
Did you come close to finishing a yarn color? I want to use these Wollmeise yarns but I need to order them from Germany to get the same colors I want easily. I am just wondering if there is a color you came close to using all of just in case I should order another one to be safe to avoid having to pay shipping on a second order to the USA.
I designed the pattern in a way that you will have a buffer and three skeins are plenty. That being said, depending on your individual needle size choices and tension, you could still end up using a lot more. However, the skeins are 150g an I used 140g in black. So, if you are feeling super anxious, then that’s where you possibly could add another skein. Personally, I don’t think it’s needed.
Hi Norman — Thanks for this beautiful shawl! I purchased it on Ravelry, got the yean, and have the first two sections done. Ready to start the first mosaic, but in reviewing your advanced mosaic posting I noticed that you recommend going up one needle size. Should I do that on this project?
I didn’t for this project and that’s why I didn’t include it in the pattern. One of my test-knitters did. It pretty much will depend a bit on your gauge.
I knitted a swatch before I started designing it and I knew I could get away without changing from that.
Hi Norman, you are a very impressive and talented person. I have been admiring your work since your online sock tutorials. Well done all the way from Australia.
Just finished the first mosaic section… my first go at mosaic knitting! My tension isn’t quite even, but I think once blocked it’ll be fine.
Thanks for the great pattern.
I’m having a bit of confusion starting at row 272. The pattern says that I place stitch markers at the beginning and end. Is that 2 more markers making it 5, the 3 original plus the 2 new ones? When I finish round 1 which marker should I be at? The marker count has be a bit lost on the repeat rounds are there 4?
Yes, you are adding two stitches markers there. I mean, in a way you don’t really need them (in fact I personally never work with stitch markers). Basically they are just used for easy reference in the pattern.
You have one stitch marker right after the beginning off your row, one marking the center of your decrease line, one marking the previous end of your row, then one right there at the beginning of your pick up line and one at the very end of your pick up line.
However, I do notice that that 4th marker is ommited in the instructions.
In round 2 it says…..KLL, sm, k2, KRL…when in reality it would be KLL, sm, k2, sm, KRL.
I’ll fix it and add errata.
Thank you. It makes much more sense to me now. It’s a great pattern and I’m having a great time with it.
It is really really beautiful in the green, curry, black colors. I love it so much. I’ m trying to find out, who will appreciate this garment. My husband always feels warm, so he wouldn’t use it enough.
Thank you for your reply Norman. I like your dark blue/ white version the most. The one you were wearing on the video. I shall give it a try.
Go well. Mary