A free and easy pattern for a knitted mug cozy with a beautiful cable pattern in the center
Is your coffee mug constantly too hot or does your tea get cold too fast? Then a knitted mug cozy is what you need! It’s a great project for beginners to learn some new knitting stitches and a cute little present on top of that.
That’s why I put together a free cabled mug cozy knitting pattern for you. I’ll show you every step from beginning to end so you can easily knit along. And the best part: You should be able to finish this in one afternoon.
If you are just starting out, meaning you haven’t knit a single stitch, I would kindly point you towards my easy coaster pattern or my tutorial on how to knit a scarf. It’s not that this mug cozy is particularly hard, but you will need to know 3 stitches instead of just one. But don’t be scared, I’ll have easy to follow video tutorials for each and every one of them!
You see, cables only look very complicated. They are actually pretty easy to knit. It basically just boils down to knitting stitches in a different order using a cable needle to “park” stitches. You can create a very intricate pattern with this technique but at the end of the day, it’s still the simple knit stitch.
This mug cozy pattern will work for almost every mug or cup as long as it has a handle and is not conical (like the typical coffee-to-go cup). Since mugs come in a lot of different sizes, you will have to do your own measurements but it’s super simple and I’ll guide you through that process, big promise!
So, let’s dive right into it, eh?
Materials you’ll need
Note: I earn a small commission for purchases made through links in this article.
Let’s talk about everything you need to knit this cabled mug cozy first. You can pick any yarn you like but I’d really stay away from pure acrylic yarns. As they can melt and burn, I don’t think they belong in a kitchen, to begin with. On top of that, they really don’t soak up a lot of moisture (in case you spill something). So, wool, cotton, or blends will be a better option!
- 25 grams of any DK weight or light worsted yarn. The Pateons Classic Wool
or the Lion Brand Wool-Ease
will be a good start! I am using scraps of alpaca yarn by Wolle Rödel.
- Knitting needles size 4.0mm / US size 6. I am using the Knitter’s Pride Karbonz Double Pointed Needle
in this pattern; if you are using a thinner yarn, you might want to reduze to 3.5m
- A cable needle
- Scissors & A tapestry needle
- A button of your choice
or the 
will be a good start! I am using scraps of 
in this pattern; if you are using a thinner yarn, you might want to reduze to 3.5m
Make sure the hole of your button is big enough for your tapestry needle; you can use a standard sewing needle and some thread to attach the button as well.
The mug Cozy knitting pattern
I already said it but I’ll mention it again: Mugs come in so many different shapes and sizes it would be impossible to provide a universal pattern with an exact stitch count that works for every yarn and knitter. So, you will have to adjust this pattern a tiny bit yourself (no need to be afraid, the process is pretty straightforward and easy!) and nothing an advanced beginner can’t handle.
Note: Here’s how to read knitting patterns in case you need to catch up first.
- Cast on 22 stitches with a standard long-tail cast-on (or any other cast on suitable for beginners)
- Row 1-5: Knit across (so essentially garter stitch)
- Row 6: k5, purl 12, k5
- Row 7: knit
Important: A this point I recommend checking your gauge. So, simply hold your work in progress next to the mug and check if it’s the right height. If it’s too short or too tall, then you need to unravel and cast on more or fewer stitches (but always multiples of two).
And then, when you reach row 6, you would have to adjust the repeat. See those 5 knit stitches at the beginning and the end of that row? You can easily add or subtract from these knit stitches here. Maybe you only need 2 stitches as a selvage or 7. The correct number will entirely depend on your preferences and of course your mug.
Note: You will have to exchange the “knit 5” with your number throughout the rest of the pattern as well
- Row 8: k5, Cable six back, cable six front, k5
Read my tutorial on the cable stitch here; Essentially you are knitting two 3×3 cables next to each other. This knitting stitch pattern is called horseshoe cable. - Row 9: k5, p12, k5
- Row 10: knit
- Row 11: k5, p12, k5
- Row 12: knit
- Row 13: k5, p12, k5
- Row 14: k5, C6B, C6F, k5
Repeat rows 9-14 until you can barely wrap your cozy in the making around your mug. Make sure you don’t knit too far. You can easily stretch your knitting for around a bit less than an inch. And you will need that for a nice fit.
In my case, my little mug has a circumference of 23 centimeters and I knit for 21 centimeters.
From here, I’ll present you with an easy finish for beginners and an advanced version with a rounded button clasp. After that, I’ll talk about finishing up the cozy.
Anyway, your last row before you start with the clasp should ideally have been a cable row (like row 14; but if it isn’t, it’s no big deal. But then your clasp will look a bit different)
Version a (easy):
- Row 1: k5, p12, k5
- Row 2: cast off 5 stitches, k17
Note: If you adjusted the pattern and cast on fewer (or more stitches), you will have to adjust the number of stitches you cast off here as well. BUT the amount will also depend on the size of the handle hole. If it’s really small, you may have to cast off even more stitches. - Row 3: cast off another 5 stitches, p12
- Row 4: Bind off 1 stitch, Knit 5
<turn the work around without finishing that row> - Row 5: p5
- Row 6: k5
- Row 7: p5
break the yarn leaving a tail of 6-8 inches. You should have 5 stitches on one needle and 6 on the other. - Row 4b: Join in the yarn again and knit across those 6 stitches still left from row 4
- Row 5b: Cast off 1 stitch, p5
- Row 6b: k5
- Row 7b: p5
- Row 8: Join the two pieces together one more time by knitting across
- Row 9: purl
- Row 10: knit
- Row 10: purl
- Row 12: cast off the remaining 10 stitches
Important note: Depending on the size of your button, you may have to create a bigger buttonhole. To achieve that, simply repeat rows 6+7 (and 6b +7b) one more time (or two times if that’s required.
Also, if your mug has a really wide handle, you might have to squeeze in two more rows in stockinette stitch before round 4.
If that still seems too hard, you could also place one basic horizontal buttonhole for beginners. So instead of breaking the yarn in row 7, you would continue knitting and then place the buttonhole in row 8 (after 3 or 4 stitches – depending on the size of your button).
Version b (advanced):
- Row 1: k5, p12, k5
- Row 2: cast off 5 stitches, k17
- Row 3: cast off another 5 stitches, p12
- Row 4: SSK, k5
<turn the work around without finishing that row> - Row 5: p5
- Row 6: k5
- Row 7: p5
cut off the yarn leaving a tail of 6-8 inches. You should have 5 stitches on one needle and 6 on the other. - Row 4b: Join in the yarn again to knit the 6 stitches left from row 4, k4, k2tog
- Row 5b: p5
- Row 6b: k5
- Row 7b: p5
- Row 8: [Join the two pieces together] k4, C2B, k4 (this small “cable” will create a neater join at the top of the buttonhole)
- Row 9: p1, p2tog, p4, p2tog tbl, p1 (8 stitches)
- Row 10: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1 (6 stitches)
- Row 11: p1, p2tog, p2tog tbl, p1 (4 stitches)
- Row 12: cast off 4 stitches (or you can knit 4 together centered)
Finishing your knitted mug cozy
Once you finished the last row, you can cut the yarn leaving a tail of 6-8 inches, and pull it through the last stitch. You will end up with altogether 4 tails and we need to weave them in on the backside. Make sure to read my tutorial on weaving in ends.
For garter stitch, I recommend going horizontally (try to spear through the legs of those stitches). And then go into the other direction one more time, and cut the rest of the tail. Your little mug cozy won’t see a lot of wear and tear, so there’s no need to turn this process into rocket science.
And, last but not least, you need to attach your button. I placed it at the very base of the first horseshoe cable. And then, just sew it to the fabric using a bit of spare yarn or some sewing thread. Make sure you leave a bit of room in between the button and your knitting (so, don’t pull too tightly as you sew).
Congratulations, you finished knitting your mug cozy!
You may consider blocking your finished cozy. This means, soaking it for a couple of minutes in lukewarm water and then pinning it to a soft surface (like a towel on your carpet) or a special blocking mat without overstretching. This will help to even out the stitches and the edges.
Please note that the beginning of this knitted mug cozy will always have a somewhat rounded edge. That’s because cables are less stretchy and have a different gauge than the surrounding fabric. It may look a bit weird when flat but do remember that this part needs to fit the handle, so the slight outward curve is actually an advantage.
Reading tip: 10 easy projects for knitting beginners
Anyway, I really hope you enjoyed this mug cozy knitting pattern. Feel free to comment below in case you have any questions.
Another great free pattern! Thank you so much! Have a glorious new year!
Thank you, Norman. Nice pattern. Hope your loved ones are doing better.
Hey Sharon,
happy to hear you like it. And yeah..things are starting to look a bit better now, thank you for asking!
Great pattern Norman. Never done cable before so this was a brilliant introduction and so well explained. Got a little confused with bind off and cast off but assumed they are the same thing.
Can’t wait to start another of your projects.
Yes, bind off and cast off means the exact same thing.
Norman, Thanks for the pattern! I’m stuck on the Version A Button hole. I don’t know how to join in the working yarn in row 4b. I don’t have a tail in that row so I’m not sure where to tie on. Once joined on, do I work 4b looking at the wrong side? Or another way to say it, start working 4b from the button hole, working to the edge? Thanks!
Why would you need a tail to join in the working yarn? Just start knitting with the new yarn. No special technique needed.
Thanks for the pattern, Norman! For Version A when I turn my work around before Row 5, I have 5 stitches on the left needle and 6 on the right. Is this correct? Because when I continue the pattern I end up with all stitches on one needle after completing Row 7. I’m a beginner knitter so maybe I’m missing something?
Hey SK,
yes you should have 6 stitches on one side and 5 on the other. that’s correct. As you knit along, the stitches will be one the same needle from time to time – except you are using a spare needle.
Hi. Really loving this patter.
But, I have this same problem: for both versions, I have all 11 stitches on one needle after row 7.
This is why:
I am working with all stitches until the end of row three.
Row 4 k for 5 stitches only: I end up with five on one, six on the other. Turn around.
Row 5 p for 5 stitches only: I end up with all on one needle. Turn around.
Row 6 k for 5 stitches only: I end up with five on one, six on the other. Turn around.
Row 7 p for 5 stitches only: I end up with all on one needle.
So, after Row 7, when your pattern says “you should have 5 stitches on one needle and 6 on the other” I don’t.
I must be doing something wrong! Would love some help.
why don’t you just slip the stitches to the other needle, Barbara?
I’m having a lot of trouble with the strap as well. I’ve tried it twice and I can’t get it right! In step 4, do you need to put the row of stitches you don’t finish on another needle, to join in later? If I turn the work around and continue knitting, I also end up with all stitches on one needle, and I can’t just move 5 stitches to the other needle because then the new yarn is all the way at the beginning of the row. A picture at this stage might help! Thank you!
hm…well i don’t have the time yet to do a video.
At the end of the day, you can always slip the stitches on a stitch holder (say a security pin, a spare needle with needle stoppers, even 3 stitch holder smight work)
Thanks for your quick response! I do have a spare needle — I just wanted to confirm that you’re moving the five stitches onto a third needle to reserve for later? It wasn’t explicit in the instructions and I’m a beginner so I just want to make sure I do the right thing next try. Thanks!
No, i am not doing that. But you can if you feel that makes it easier for you. It doesn’t matter.
Hm, I guess I don’t understand at all what I’m doing wrong then! 🙁 If anyone else has had this problem and had any luck figuring it out I’d love to know so I can finish the project!
Ashley, you are probably not doing anything significant wrong. Just slip those stitches to a stitch holder an carry-on. This is not an issue to loose sleep over!
This may be too late, but in case anyone is having the same issue, here’s a modification I did for after Row 7 (see Rows 7.1 and 7.1b; I basically added k5):
Row 7: p5 – break the yarn leaving a tail of 6-8 inches. You should have 5 stitches on one needle and 6 on the other.
Row 7.1: k5
Row 4b: Join in the yarn again and knit across those 6 stitches still left from row 4
Row 5b: Cast off 1 stitch, p5
Row 6b: k5
Row 7b: p5
Row 7.1b: k5
Row 8: Join the two pieces together one more time by knitting across
etc.
Hope this helps someone!
I’m getting stuck on “ join the yarn again”
After breaking off Anna’s leaving a trail, am I using the tail or the whole ball of yarn to start knitting again? And how do I start it? Do I need to tie a knot somewhere? I can’t visualize this step and don’t understand.
Thank you!!
you typically never start with the tail. Alway with the whole ball.
I’m also struggling with joining in, like Katie below me. I’ve broken the yarn and left a tail. Now I’m not understanding what I join the new yarn from the ball to. Do I join the new yarn from the ball with the tail that I just made? If not, what do I join it with?
If I do join it with the tail I just made by breaking the yarn, why did I break the yarn just to join it again? I’m really not understanding this step.
you are breaking the yarn to create the buttonhole. You could not continue knitting on the other side without creating a very long and ugly strand on the backside.
I’m in the same boat, and replying because I’ve read all of the other comments/replys and i still don’t understand what to do. I have all of my stitches on one needle after Row 7, and i’m confused about the next steps, how to join in yarn, and if at the point where im joining yarn my stitches should be on 2 needles or just one…
This is a great pattern! I love the cable stitch detail.
Love your beautiful designs, and want to try this except as a neck warmer. I was thinking of using the end to cross over to the button on the main design. Thank you, you’re much appreciated!
Hi.. beautiful pattern.. would be very grateful if you could show the same in a video.
Thank you.
I can’t figure out Version A as well. Did anyone ever figure it out?
Hiya Norman,
this pattern looks great but I’m having difficulty with it… specifically:
Row 7: knit (ok)
Row 8: k5, Cable six back, cable six front, k5
[Read my tutorial … cable.] *this gives me a purl stitch on the right side if I knit the cables, so I guess I should purl the cable stitches but then… the next row would give me purl stitches on the right side – shouldn’t all these odd and even rows below be switched?
Row 9: k5, p12, k5
Row 10: knit
Row 11: k5, p12, k5
Row 12: knit
Row 13: k5, p12, k5
Row 14: k5, C6B, C6F,k4
Otherwise, I’m not sure where I’m getting it wrong… ?
Thanks!
you are just mixing up right and wrong side. garter stitch is reversible so it really doesn’t matter which side you call right side..it’s the side you define it to be.
Isn’t the cable supposed to be in stockinette stitch on the right side?
sure. but the pattern doesn’t start on the right side in the first row and that seems to be your issue. All even numbered rows are right side rows.
I am definitely a beginner here, but is there a reason why in row either there are 5 stitches on either side of the cable stitch but in row 14 there are 5 on one side and 4 on the other? I’m not seeing what to do with the last stitch in that row other than knit it as well.
that’s a type. Thank you for catching it.
Just the pattern I was looking for. Wish there was a pdf download
Just finished this. Great fun to do. I had to use a different colour for the buttonhole tab, but I expected that. Lost my way a little with the buttonhole but I don’t think I read the pattern correctly. Will try harder next time.
Best website for it’s fluidity, theory, expanding levels and clearity!
Bravo to your works and finished my Cozy today!
Greetings!
Can I use circular needles?
why not?
Hi, I’m new to knitting and trying out patterns. I started with 22 stitches cast on and halfway through, I’m now at double the stitches, why is it getting wider? What am I doing wrong ?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Well, you are probably accidentally increasing. This can happen when you catch the yarn while turning. Hard for me to tell what youa re doing wrong without actually seeing it.
I wish you’d put together a complete kit for this…needles, et al. And/or perhaps a ‘beginners’ kit, as for an easy scarf or something. That way I won’t be blindly buying the wrong size needles, yarn, etc. I’d gladly pay..
sorry, I do not sell yarn or needles.
Hi Norman. Of course, thank you! My mug curves a lot towards the bottom. I’m wondering if I can make simple decreases to give me that slant, or if I should do short rows maybe. Don’t want to reinvent the wheel if you’ve already done it.
Yes, you would have to include short rows in this case. BUt not sure if that is worth the effort. Decreases won’t get you there (except you completely revamp the pattern and knit bottom up instead left to right (as it is now)