A step-by-step tutorial on knitting Judy’s magic cast-on – the perfect start for toe-up socks
Do you want to start knitting socks toe-up in a super invisible way? Do you hate the Kitchener stitch and similar grafting or seaming methods? Then this tutorial is all for you because I’ll show you how to knit Judy’s magic cast-on – step by step.
This super smart cast-on method was popularized by Judy Becker in 2006. She never made a claim on the name (she just called it “Magic cast-on for toe-up socks”) but I guess it stuck. In reality, it’s a very simple variation of the much older Italian Cast-on but done around two needles separately instead of just one.
Unlike the structurally identical Turkish cast-on, it already creates the first row in the same breath. This saves you a lot of time and often leads to much neater results.
Let’s show you how to knit it.
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Instructions: How to knit Judy's magic cast-on
The magic cast-on can be knit with either double-pointed needles or circular needles. Typically it is used for socks toe-up using the magic loop technique. It requires a medium-sized tail.
Instructions
- Hold your circular needles parallel and pick up the yarn the way you would for a normal longtail cast-on with the working yarn connected to your ball wrapped around your index finger.
- Start with a simple twisted loop around your top needle.
- Next, guide the needles in between the yarn connected to your index finger.
- And scoop up the yarn with your bottom needle so you create a half loop.
- Then, bring the needles in between the yarn towards your thumb.
- And pick up the yarn with your top needle.
- Repeat steps 4-6 until you cast-on the required number of stitches. Make sure you always end up with a stitch on the bottom needle and there is an equal number of stitches on both needles.
- Turn your work around counter-clockwise.
- Start knitting according to the regular magic loop technique (or join in a new needle if you are using dpns). Important: all stitches on this first needle are mounted the wrong way. So you have to knit all the stitches on this first needle ONLY through the back loop to untwist them.
- Once you are finished with the first needle, continue knitting as usual.
Notes
You can also start Judy's magic cast-on with a slip knot. This will be a bit more stable to start but will also leave a noticeable little knot at the tip of your toes.
Alternative ways to knit the Magic Cast-on
Now, I have to tell you a little secret. This technique is not the way Judy Becker originally taught it. It’s my variation, one I find a lot easier with the exact same results. If you do want to stick to the original steps, here’s what you would have to change.
A) Pick up the yarn from the outside
In the very first versions of the magic cast-on, most people would tell you to pick up the yarn coming from the outside. So, instead of just scooping it up with your needle, you’d have to kind of wrap it around with your fingers.
Step 1: Start with a twisted loop on the top needle.
Step 2: Wrap the yarn towards the index finger around the bottom needle using your index finger coming from outside.
Step 3: Wrap the yarn towards your thumb around the top needle using your thumb.
Step 4: Repeat steps 4+5 until you cast on the required number of stitches.
So where is the difference? Well, if you do it like this, the stitches on the second needle will end up twisted (whereas with the version from above the stitches on the first needle will end up twisted).
I personally find it’s less awkward to scoop stitches up with your needle AND it’s easier to remember knitting the first needle through the back loop. But, as always, this is entirely up to you.
You can, however, combine the two techniques. If you wrap all stitches for the bottom needle around from the outside with your thumb and you scoop up all stitches for the top needle with your needle coming from the inside, you won’t have to knit any stitches through the back loop.
As I personally find it easier to mess up the repeat then and knitting through the back loop is actually very easy for a continental knitter, I don’t do this.
b) Switch tail & working yarn
I told you to pick up the yarn the way you would for a normal longtail cast-on. This isn’t precisely the text-book version. A lot of tutorials will tell you to do it the other way round with the tail wrapped around your index finger.
So, why is that? Well, as you turn your work around to start knitting across, simple knitting in the round logic would dictate that the working yarn has to exit the last stitch on the bottom needle.
Picture this: Your last stitch of the cast-on is supposed to be on the bottom needle. This stitch is fed from the yarn towards the index finger (aka the working yarn). When you turn your work around, this last bottom stitch will be the first you knit through (everything is upside down).
As a result, you will have to drag the yarn up a row (the way you would for normal flat knitting) and not bridge the gap. This sounds kind of like a mistake that would create a micro gap. In reality, you will notice that it doesn’t make a difference at all, as in either case the tail will be wrapped around the working yarn two keep the stitch from unraveling. This will also prevent any visible gaps.
In the picture above you see the textbook version of Judy’s magic cast-on on the left. And on the right, you see the version I showed you above. And I promise you, both are entirely seamless and secure and you won’t be able to spot a single difference.
And if you do feel it does make a difference. Well, then simply start with a loop around the bottom needle and end with a loop around the top needle. Then you’d have the same configuration when holding the tail around your thumb.
Using Judy’s magic cast-on as a provisional cast-on
You can also use this technique as a provisional cast-on. In this case, follow the exact same steps. Then, knit across the first row the way I showed you. And then, simply turn your work around and continue knitting flat.
Slip the stitches from the bottom needle to a stitch holder or cast-on using two circular needles and leave them on the cord. Later on, you can simply knit into the other direction. How easy is that?
I trying to make a collar using the provisional cast on. Not a big deal except that the collar is worked in K1 P1. The stitches are impossible to work. Any suggestions. Thank you. I’m a fan of yours.
Thank you.
I am not quite sure I understand your question? are you having problems knitting across the first row with *k1, p1*?
BTW I’m making the short version of The Big Love pattern by Ankestrick.
I made they hat that you’re modeling in the photo below. It’s perfect. My daughter in law loves it.
Peggy Mckleroy