How to knit an edge stitch – 10 neat selvage techniques for different projects and use cases.
Do your edges look wonky? Or does your knitting pattern require you to add “selvage stitches” and you have no idea what it means? Well, don’t worry! This tutorial is all about it, and I will show you altogether 10 different edge stitch knitting techniques.
Why so many? Because not every knitting pattern behaves in the same way. Some are stretchier than others. Also, there are many different use cases, and of course, different people may find different edge stitches more beautiful than others. I would like to give you the choice.
Let’s take a look, eh?
Tip: Make sure to read my details on how to knit edges neatly if you are struggling with your tension. And here’s a post with 10 knitting tips that will make your knitting instantly look better.
What is an edge stitch?
The edge stitch, often called selvedge or selvage (self-finished edge), refers to the stitches on the left and right sides of a flat knitting project. A selvage can be one or more stitches wide. Typically, these stitches are added to the border of a knitting stitch pattern to create a neater edge, to make it easier to seam or pick up stitches, or to keep your knitting from curling.
The term originally came from weaving and sewing and referred to special edges that do not unravel. A lot of knitting patterns don’t specify which edge stitch you should pick. Often, you just read something like “cast on 20 stitches + selvage”. It’s up to the knitter to decide. It is, however, important to note that these are extra stitches you need to cast on.
The 10 best selvedges
A selvedge can be that little something that turns your finished projects from looking self-made into handcrafted. Not all of the 10 edge stitches I present to you in this post are perfect for every project. Besides the pictures and the knitting instructions, you will find additional information on the suitability below every entry.
Also, kindly refer to my knitting terms glossary in case you stumble across an abbreviation you are unfamiliar with. And here’s how to read knitting patterns in case you need to catch up.
#1 Chain Stitch selvage
This is by far the most versatile and easiest selvage stitch. You will find it in many small variations and under different names. It’s sometimes called “chain edge” or “slip stitch edge” – and sometimes with regional variations like German slip stitch selvage, French or English slip stitch selvage.
Instead of getting confused by the different names and ways to knit it, you should rather try to understand the fundamental principle: You add one extra stitch on each side of your project. And then you slip that stitch in every second row.
Here’s the most common way to knit it:
- Right side (RS): Slip the first stitch knitwise with yarn in back (sl1k wyib), … and knit the last stitch
- Wrong side (WS): Sl first st purlwise with yarn in front (sl1pwyif), … and purl last stitch
However, since a purl stitch will appear exactly like a knit stitch from the other side, you can knit it in many different ways for the exact same outcome:
- RS: Sl1k wyib, and purl the last stitch.
- WS: Sl1k wyib, and purl the last stitch.
Or you could knit:
- RS: K1….sl1k wyib
- WS: P1….sl1p wyif
Where’s the difference? Theoretically speaking, there is no meaningful difference. But every knitter struggles with different stitches. For example, if you struggle with keeping your last stitch neat, then the last option might be best since you only have to slip it. But if it’s the first stitch you are having trouble with, well then, pick the first option. Or knit some swatches to check which version produces the best results for you and your yarn/style of knitting.
Now, this edge will look quite charming on stockinette stitch. There is one thing you do have to know, however. The final appearance of this edge stitch is defined by the adjacent stitch. So, if you want to knit a chain stitch selvage for garter stitch, you would have to change the repeat to:
- Every row: Sl1p wyif, knit to end
What’s it good for: Creates a nice chain on both sides. Can be a bit harder to knit consistently but otherwise quite easy to remember. Not suitable for seaming, does not prevent curling, and only limited usability for picking up stitches.
Chain stitch edge – matching edges:
There is one technical geekery I have to share, though. The instructions for the standard chain stitch selvage will create mirrored edge stitches (like, for example, in SSK and K2tog). If you want edge stitches that look identical on both sides you have to knit it like this – or any permutation of it.
- RS: Sl1p wyib….k1
- WS: Sl1 wyif as if to ptbl….purl
If you scroll back a bit, then you will see how the standard chain stitch selvage from above creates edges where the left leg is longer on the left side and the right leg is longer on the right side. As a result, both edges will behave in the same way. If you want them to LOOK identical, the last repeat might be better.
Reading tip: How to fix a dropped edge stitch
#2 Twisted slip stitch selvage
A simple twist (excuse the pun) of the classic chain stitch selvage is the twisted slip stitch selvage. Here, the legs of the edge stitches cross. A lot of shawl patterns seem to prefer this edge stitch.
Right leg crossing over the longer left leg:
- Every row: Sl1k wyif, and knit the last stitch
Left leg crossing over the longer right leg:
- Every row: Sl1 wyib as if to p1tbl, and purl the last stitch.
What’s it good for: Ornamental edge that can look a bit firmer. It’s not all that suitable for picking up stitches and less than ideal for seaming. I often find that the two edges look a bit mismatched, though.
#3 Garter stitch selvage (also knotted or beaded selvage)
This is probably the most versatile edge ever. It’s super easy to remember, it works for almost all projects, and it will even help a bit against the curling of stockinette stitch. For the right kind of project, garter stitch edges can be quite decorative.
- Every Row: Knit the first and last stitch of every row
What’s it good for: Decorative and slightly firm border. Can be a smart choice for seaming if you want a purl ridge (like when you join ribbing or half-brioche stitch) or you need a flat seam (here’s how to seam garter stitch in an invisible way).
For an even firmer edge, you can also knit it like this:
- Every row: KTBL, …, ktbl
#4 Double or Triple Garter stitch selvage
This is the easiest selvage option if you want to keep your stockinette stitch from curling. It adds quite a decorative border that lays perfectly flat.
- Every row: Knit the first two (or three) and last two stitches (or three)
Depending on the size of your project, you may want to knit the first and last 3, 4, or even 5 of your project to get a more balanced look.
What’s it good for: Purely decorative border with quite a lot of give; not especially suitable for (invisible) seaming or picking up stitches.
#5 Double twist selvage
If you are seeking a firm edge that creates one stitch for every two rows, then look no further. The double-twist selvage is probably your best choice in these cases:
- Every Row: Sl1k wyib, …, ktbl
What’s it good for: Super tight edge. Very difficult to pick up stitches. Can be quite hard to knit uniformly on both sides.
#6 Double seed stitch selvage
The classic seed stitch is a very pleasing knitting stitch pattern that can add a lot of structure to your edges. It will also help against curling in stockinette stitch. I personally feel it’s a bit prettier than the garter stitch option from above, yet behaves – in many ways – the same.
- Every row: K1, p1,…. p1, k1
Of course, you can multiply the repeat as many times as you want. You could also do k1, p1, k1, p1…p1, k1, p1, k1 (and so on) for a much wider edge. In fact, I think this is where this edge truly shines – especially when you are knitting a blanket or similar projects.
What’s it good for: Purely decorative border for larger projects (like blankets, etc.); Not suitable for seaming or picking up stitches.
#7 Double stockinette stitch selvage
One of my personal favorite edge stitches uses the double stockinette stitch pattern. It may be a bit more difficult to knit, but it does have so many interesting and smart use cases. Plus, it creates just such a beautiful round edge.
- RS: K1, SL1p wyif, k1, …, k1, SL1p wyif, k1
- WS: SL1p wyif, k1, SL1p wyif, …, SL1p wyif, k1, SL1p wyif
Of course, you can also knit the edge as wide as you like. You do have to be careful that the double stockinette stitch has a slightly different gauge. So, I wouldn’t go too wide.
What’s it good for: Highly decorative border that may be used to prevent curling or even add drawstrings (as it creates a pocket); perfect also for smooth edges in brioche stitches. Not suitable for seaming or picking up stitches.
#8 I-cord edge
If you’ve ever knit a shawl, then you know how popular i-cords are. The basic knitting technique can be transferred to your edges as well. You’ll end up with a super round border that has a nice grip.
- RS: Sl1p wyib, sl1p wyif, k1, …, k1, sl1p wyif, p1
- WS: Sl1p wyib, k1, sl1 wyif, …, sl1 pwyif, k1, p1
What’s it good for: Highly decorative border that will mirror the look and feel of your i-cord bind-off and cast-on edges. Not really suitable for seaming or picking up stitches. Will curl a bit.
#9 Seam edge
This should be your preferred method whenever you want to join two pieces together using mattress stitch. When done right, you will be able to create utterly invisible seams.
- RS: K2, …, k2
- WS: P2, …, p2
Depending on your knitting stitch pattern, you may consider knitting the first and last two or three stitches. This will give you a smoother transition toward your seam.
Also, unlike many other selvages, it doesn’t skip rows. While slip stitches may look pretty, they don’t allow you to account for the differences in gauge. Say you want to pick up stitches to knit in the other direction. Then you typically will have to skip every 3rd stitch (a typical gauge for stockinette stitch is something like 10 st x 14 rows).
What’s it good for: Perfect base for standard vertical seams or when you need to pick up stitches. Otherwise rather unspectacular edge that may curl.
#10 Brioche Stitch Selvage
This selvage is inspired by a reader who commented on one of my last posts. I couldn’t find any reference for this edge, though I heard a version of it is popular in Russian knitting. I call it brioche stitch selvage because it’s a very similar technique.
- Row 1 (setup): Sl1p wyif, yo…
- Row 2: Sl1p wyif, yo, …, p2tog
- Row 3: Sl1p wyif, yo, …, k2tog
- Repeat rows 2+3
What’s it good for: It creates a very balanced edge that is quite fluffy. Not for seaming, but I feel it can look perfect for a scarf.
How to find the perfect selvage for your project – things to consider
With all these alternatives, you are probably wondering which edge stitch will be the right one for your project. While looks are important, I really urge you to consider a couple of further tips:
The best edges for seaming
There’s a fundamental difference between an ornamental edge and an edge for seaming. The former only needs to be pretty, and maybe stretchy enough so you don’t mess up your gauge. But if you want to do any serious seaming, you want an edge that is firm enough to support your stitches, but not so bulky that you are creating any big ridges on the wrong side.
In my opinion, the garter stitch edge and a stockinette stitch selvage are your best options here. Both can be joined quite effortlessly with the mattress stitch.
Shaped edges
Not every object you knit will be rectangular (like a scarf, etc). Sometimes you end up with sloped shapes and curves. And while some selvages might be ideal to add a little bit of extra structure to a seam, those might be too tight for – say – the armpits of a sweater. Another example could be a triangular shawl, where you might need a little bit of extra stretchiness.
The reason? The distance between two stitches that are on top of each other is shorter than a diagonal (It’s simple geometry: Think of it as a square – the sides are shorter than the diagonal)
Edges for picking up stitches
When you want to pick up stitches from an edge, you should consider that your row gauge will probably differ from your stitch gauge. What do I mean? If you count the stitches you need to cover a 2×2 inches (5×5 cm) piece of fabric, the numbers won’t match. So, maybe it will be something like 20 stitches and 25 rows (just one example).
As a result, you would have to pick up three stitches for every 4 rows – at least if you don’t want your edges to flare (or pucker). This means you often cannot use a selvage where you end up with only 1 edge stitch for every two rows. The only exception is the gusset of a sock, where the fabric will get narrower anyway. Here, a slipped stitch selvage can be a great choice.
The best selvage for Lace Shawls, etc
When you block your knitting, you usually don’t overstretch it. But when you are knitting lace, you often want those eyelets to pop wide open, those picots to turn into nice little spikes, and so on. And in these cases, your edge stitches might end up constricting your shawl because they are not stretchy enough.
There’s an easy way to avoid that. Just add a yarn over before the edge stitch and drop it in the next round, or pull out the (slipped) stitch quite a bit after you knit the second stitch (don’t do it right after slipping). Normally, you wouldn’t do this, as it will result in somewhat frilly edges. But in these cases, it will get you the extra bit of stretchiness that will look quite neat once you’ve blocked things to perfection.
Anyways, these are 10 edge stitch knitting techniques you should be aware of. Comment below if you still have any questions.
Hi Norman thanks for these ideas to try but I do have a question with regards as to decrease and increase rows? When the pattern calls for the inc/dec in the first and last stitch what do you do to keep the consistent look of the selvage?
Hey Sandra,
quite honestly, I don’t know. I would never increase through the edge stitch because this will always look a bit weird. I always increase one or better two stitches in. The only possible exception would be doing a backward loop or knitted increase. but that will leave a little stair and may or may not be what you are looking for.
great explanation, thank you.
Could you please tell me what yarn you used? I love the texture of it.
It’s the Schachenmayr Catania Grande
Norman, the tutorial on edge stitches is really helpful. I would love to see one about picking up stitches for a blanket border after the piece is finished. I am struggling because the blanket alternates several garter rows followed by several stockinette rows so I don’t know how to make an even, finished edge. Crochet does not work and I’m not sure if I should try to learn i-cord on a project this large. I love your tutorials and I wish I’d found you years ago!
I already have a tutorial. It’s available on my patreon account: https://www.patreon.com/posts/secrets-of-up-66998914
thanks for this rundown! comprehensive and helpful as a beginner knitter 🙂
Hello, there’s a typo in the double stockinette stitch:
WS as in the desciption above is
WS: Sl1pwif, p1, sl1wif, …, Sl1pwif, p1, sl1pwif
But should be:
WS: Sl1pwif, k1, sl1wif, …, Sl1pwif, k1, sl1pwif
Thanks a lot for the tutorials, best wishes.
Thx for catching that. you are absolutely right..or well..the answer is a bit more difficult but yes, it’s much better that way 🙂
sl1wif
Is that the same as sl1wyif?
sorry. yes.
Hello Norman,
Just starting a honeycomb scarf and the pattern starts with row 1:
k to last 2sts, slip 2 wyif
I would love you to explain what this means
Thank you in anticipation
Iain
you slip the last two stitches of the first row with yarn in front. Not sure what your problem is?
Sorry Norman not very good at explaining myself
If I slip two stitches from one needle to the other then turn around to work the second row my yarn is two stitches in.
Thank you for your advice.
I think that’s probably the whole point and it will create an icord edge or so. I don’t know what the goal is I can only help you with general questions 🙂
Making it more complicated in my head than it was
Thank you
Love your blog and you tube channel
Hello Norman,
Can the ı-cord edge be knitted on stockinette stitch pattern?
Thanks
Yes, sure. Do understand, however, that every icord is basically stockinette stitch as well. So, you are adding stockinette stitch to stockinette stitch and this typically curls a lot.
Out of the frying pan into the fire 🙈
I really don’t need more curls 🧶 Thanks a lot Norman 🙋♀️
Hi Norman, do you have a favorite edge for a fisherman’s rib scarf? Thank you!
Typically, an edge of 3 stitches in double stockinette stitch looks quite lovely, in my opinion.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Thank you so much for your blog and you tube tutorials!! I’m obsessed.
I’d like you advice: I’m making a large poncho with moss stitch along the bottom and up the edges. But I was thinking of adding two extra selvedge stitches to make a neater edge. Which stitch would you recommend or would you just leave moss stitch edge? Thanks so much!
that is nothing I can comment on. Where some people love an i-cord edge, others hate it, etc. It really boils down to preferences. My lace shawl#1 pattern has seed stitch and I did pick a neat selvage for it (in my opinion).
Dear Norman, excellent list of options, examples, and pros & cons. A question on Option 7, are all the slip stitches purlwise? You specify in all but one:
RS: K1, Sl1pwif, k1, …, k1, Sl1pwif, k1
WS: Sl1pwif, k1, sl1wif, …, Sl1pwif, k1, sl1pwif << 3rd stitch here does not have direction to slip
Thank you. Green Gal
Thank you for catching that. this was obviously a typo. it should be purlwise.
Hi Norman, I’ve only worked with one pattern that included the step of adding a selvedge stitch. The other projects I’ve completed didn’t include that – not all required but some would have been better if they’d had a nice, finished edge. Do you recommend automatically adding selvedge stitches even if the pattern doesn’t call for it?
no, I don’t recommend that – espcially if it’s seamed. That being said, I do feel knitting is about making your own choices. So if you don’t like a certain edge, sure why not. But there are many projects I could think of where adding one would actually be not a good idea.
Hi Norman.
I’m trying to do a scalloped crochet border on a large stockinette piece. It always seems to look a little wonky on the vertical edges in comparison to the neater cast on and bind off rows. Do you have a recommendation for a good selvedge for adding crochet borders?
not really. I mean your crochet border is bound to have a different gauge. So any selvage that slips stitches is probably a bad idea…except you go up a hook size or two.
So for it to really look perfect you would have to knit quite a couple of swatches an experiment around.
Hi Norman,
What is the best edge for a cardigan on stockinette knitting? Just a simple cardigan without buttonhole 🙂
Thanks
I dunno. Can’t say. I would always at a true border. Probably double stockinette stitch or so.
I’m not being able to find this term, Sl1pwif anywhere on your site. Any chance you could write this out for me?
Thanks!
I am reasonably sure it’s part of my knitting stitch glossary.
Still, it’s slip one purlwise with yarn in front.
Norman, would you please demonstrate how to do a sloped bind-off for a neckline? Just found you, and I AM SO GLAD!
Just a quick comment. I now know how to make a great right side (knit)edge because of your tutorial. I am going to assume that the wrong side (purl) is also a matter of not stretching the yarn and don’t tighten until after the second stitch? Love your tutorials!
Hi Norman!
I am looking for a selvedge for the linen stitch. I am making a table runner with the linen stitch and bulky yarn. I want an edge that will lay flat like the linen stitch. Do you have any suggestions? I tried the I cord but the stitches look really big compared to the linen stitches.
Thank you so much if you have time to help me.
I think there is still a typo remaining in the double stockinette stitch selvage pattern. viz.
RS: k1, sl1pwif, k1, …, k1, sl1pwif, k1
WS: sl1pwif, k1, sl1pwif, …, sl1pwif, k1, sl1pwif
If you have a video of knitting with this selvage then please provide a link.
The problem is that after finishing a WS row with (k1, sl1pwif) it is _not_ possible to start the very next RS row with a (k1)! The yarn is already at back due to the sl1pwif from the prior row but the yarn is not in any way entangled with that purl-wise slipped stitch. Attempting to start the subsequent RS row with a k1 _necessarily_ fails to entangle!
After trying numerous variations on the ending of each WS row and the start of each RS row, I think you will find that the nicest appearance is achieved by starting every RS row with a p1 (_not_ a k1). viz.
RS: p1, sl1pwif, k1, …, k1, sl1pwif, k1
WS: sl1pwif, k1, sl1pwif, …, sl1pwif, k1, sl1pwif
I am sorry Najevi, but the instructions are correct. The yarn does not need to be twisted/entangled. In fact, it shouldn’t.
However, if you prefer your version, go ahead. That’s what this article is all about.
Double stockinette triple selvage stitch
Addendum to earlier comment (still in moderation)
I can’t believe I missed the forrest for the tree! A far easier (and better looking) remedy is to not alternate the selvage stitches betwen RS row and WS row. viz.
RS: sl1pwif, k1, sl1pwif, …, k1, sl1pwif, k1
WS: sl1pwif, k1, sl1pwif, …, k1, sl1pwif, k1
i am not quite sure what you are up to Najevi. Again, if you like the way this looks go ahead. But it will NOT produce double stockinette stitch.
Hi Norman,
Thanks for this and all your tutorials – have had great fun exploring these possibilities and especially made use of wide seed stitch and double stocking borders, just lovely!
Query on the seam selvedge – about to do myself a jumper with Irish moss stitch at the side edges, last time I did this I just mattressed the moss stitch and it wasn’t perfectly invisible so will replace the two edge stitches with the seam selvedge this time. Just wondered if you would advise knitting the last stitch or two before the selvedge in stocking for a smoother transition from moss stitch?
All best,
Oli
Honestly, I’d have to test it myself. Since a jumper is abig project, I suggest you just knit a little swatch, or rather two (it only needs to be like 6-10st vide) and test it out what you like best. My guess is that a garter stitch selvage + garter stitch selvage could possible the most invisible. not 100% but possibly better than stockinette stitch. But that’s just a hunch.
Cool, thank you – will swatch and see!
Oli
Hi Norman.
Could you give me some advice please. I’m going to knit a baby blanket with a pattern using just simple knit & purl stitches in each row. What would be the best edge stitches or border to use, please, so that it stays firm at the edges rather than stretching.
Thank you
In that case, I would possibly consider doing a crochet border all the way around. Crochet fabric is typically a lot firmer than knitting.
Hi there,
Thanks for the tips and all the tutos, they are so helpful!
To keep the neat selvages from the very first row to the very last one of a project, I wonder if there is some little tweaking to do when we cast it on (especially with the longtail technique) and bind it off?
Hope my question is clear. If not, do not hesitate to ask for precisions.
I really love all the work you do and share with us. And your website is an absolute gem, thanks again!
that’s a tricky question because it ignores one factor: your tension. And this can easily mess up a technically sound idea simply because you pulled to hard on that stitch, etc.
As a result, I typically knit the first stitch after a longtail cast-on and don’t slip it. But that’s entirely my preference.
Hello
In the double twisted salvage… I can’t find out what Sl1kwib means
‘Every Row: Sl1kwib, …, ktbl’
unless it is knit with YARN in back? and the ‘Y’ is missing?
Thanks
yap. that yarn was missing.
old habits. most patterns only write SL1…so heh 😛
Hi Norman,
Here is a selvedge, for stockinette stitch fabric, that I developed specifically for seaming with a seam-line that has absolutely no ridge on the inside, and no gaps when under tension.
Surface texture is not “invisible”, but this seam line could be considered “decorative” – along a shoulder top say.
The method below comes in two parts. 1) Working the selvedge. 2) Sewing the seam.
I think it must be something new?
There are no slip stitches used, and the seaming method is not mattress stitch.
———– ———– ———– ———–
1)
Right side rows……
Knit the first stitch of row into the back leg.
Knit the last stitch of row, but wrap the working yarn the wrong way around the right hand needle. (The opposite wrap compared with normal stitches.)
Wrong side rows ……
Purl the first stitch of row, but wrap the working yarn the wrong way around the right hand needle. (The opposite wrap compared with normal stitches.)
Purl the last stitch of row into the back leg.
Notice that at one edge all edge stitches are into back leg. At the other edge all stitches are “wrapped the wrong way”.
2) Seaming
I love sewing mattress stitch, and love seeing its magical result on the right side. But it always makes a raised ridge on the wrong side.
The aim of this little project was to create a seam that has no internal ridge at all – for comfort.
Mattress stitch on just the one outer strand of each selvedge loop? ……. That did make the internal ridge small, but also very hard and sharp, so a different seam stitch is needed.
Use a type of “Ladder Stitch”, as detailed below…..
Bring the two edges together, right side facing you, and upright – same as seen when knitting the pieces.
Pass the sewing needle up from below through one edge loop, engaging one yarn strand only.
Then in the next edge loop up that same edge, pass the needle down to the back, engaging one yarn strand only.
Move to the other edge. Perform the same steps described above.
Move back to the previous edge, and repeat. Go through each edge loop once only. Along each edge, the sewing yarn links two edge loops, and then later the NEXT two loops.
Which loops?
Two issues here. Row alignment from edge to edge, and pairing of the linked loops along an edge.
“Pairing” matters because the selvedge loop structure is paired. (One pair of consecutive stitches at each turn.)
The best solution makes both issues correct:
When knitting the piece or pieces, attach stitch markers through the two end loops of one knitted row. Marker “B” through the first knitted stitch, marker “A” through the last knitted stitch. (I do that after having compled a purled row and turned the work. Attach markers into the row that is hanging free just below the purled loops that are on the needle.)
Then when sewing the ladder seam, start with …
Needle up (from back to front) through the loop below A.
Then needle down through loop A.
At the other edge, up through loop B.
Then down through the loop above B.
Back to the first edge, needle up through the loop above A, then down through the loop above that.
The needle movement sequence is now established correctly. Complete the seam upwards, and use the sewing yarn tail to complete the seam downwards. (The yarn can be pulled to slide through the entire length of the seam, same as mattress stitch does, to lengthen the sewing yarn tail if needed.)
I hope you like it!
Best wishes,
Andy
Hi Norman,
I appreciate all you effort here.
I have been exploring edges, and really enjoy the look of chain stitch selvage for garter stitch. It has not at all been working for me. No matter how many instructional videos I watch, or written instructions or who or what, I cannot manage to make a chain edge. I’ve explored swatches on my own, I’ve mixed it up etc. And I cannot figure out what I’m doing wrong. I took it back to the basics to make sure I am purling correctly, paying attention to back vs. front, etc. It is making me feel crazy! Can you help?
Thank you for the informative video. I am a beginner knitter, so method 9 (seam edge) is not entirely clear to me. When working in stockinette stitch, the first and last two stitches are knit on the right side and purled on the wrong side. Should these seam-edge stitches be worked differently, or do extra stitches need to be added?
Those selvage stitches need to be added because they will be “folded” to the inside when/after seamining – at least if you want to maintain the width.
so, if you knit stockinette stitch anyway, you just cast-on 2 more stitches and knit across all right sides and purl across all wrong sides.
Hi Norman, thank you for for your work; It continues to prove itself incredibly useful and of high quality thanks to your effort.
While i was reading this article I noticed that double stockinette and i-cord selvedges are very similar or actually identical in the result, but with a permutation on the instruction.
Also, I think that the instructions for these two methods could be simplified transforming them into single-row repetitions.
for selvedges with even number of stitches on both sides:
*K1, sl1P wyif, repeat from* for every selvdedge stitches, … pattern … , *K1, sl1P wyif, repeat from* for every selvdedge stitches.
repeat on the next row.
E.g. 4 selvedge stitches:
K1, sl1P wyif, K1, sl1P wyif, … pattern … ,K1, sl1P wyif, K1, sl1P wyif.
For selvedges with odd number of stitches on both sides:
*K1, sl1P wyif, repeat from* , K1, … pattern … , *sl1P wyif, K1, repeat from*,sl1P wyif .
repeat on the next row.
E.g. 3 selvedge stitches:
K1, sl1P wyif, K1, … pattern … , sl1P wyif, K1, sl1P wyif.
E.g. 5 selvedge stitches:
K1, sl1P wyif, K1, sl1P wyif, K1, … pattern … , sl1P wyif, K1, sl1P wyif, K1, sl1P wyif.
Still, I’m no expert, so please tell me if i’m wrong on something or if there is some other reason to do otherwise. I’d love to know what do you think about this.
thank you for your work,
Davide.
Well, in knitting, there are plenty of ways to arrive at the exact same result. So, yes you can totally knit the double stockinette stitch a bit differently.
I just wrote down the way I knit it. that doesn’t mean other ways to knit it are wrong.
As for the icord edge. SOme knit it differently. So they will slipp the last three stitches on the wrong side and always knit the first three stitches. That will result in a tighter, more rolled-in edge.
And I guess that’s why people make the difference.
Thank you Norman!
Thank you Norman for all of this!
What edge would you recommend for sewing a zipper onto.
I am making a zipper closed cardigan and in the past when I tried this the zipper had waves in it. I am hoping a specific edge might lessen that effect.
Thank you!
I don’t think the edge stitch is a problem. However, normally you pick up stitches from the edge (on both sides) to create a stable base to insert the zipper. Well, at least I do.