A step-by-step tutorial on bind-off without stairs and a perfect slope
There are two big issues with a standard bind-off. You can only ever use it at the beginning of a row but not at the end. On top of that, you also have to knit into each stitch before you pass them over. Thus, you will create a new row as you bind off. So, when you stagger a bind-off across multiple rows (like for the armhole/collar of a sweater), there will always be at least two rows of knitting in between each bind-off level. This tutorial will show you how to avoid these stairs.

Note: I earn a small commission for purchases made through links in this article.
Instructions: How to knit a sloped bind-off
This smart technique will avoid stairs when binding off no matter how many stitches you need to work and no matter on which side. It's always the exact same principle.
Instructions
- First row (RS): Start by binding off as normal without any special technique and continue knitting across.

- Second row (WS): Work across the wrong side as normal but slip the last stitch. Then turn around.

- Third row (RS): Slip the first two stitches over to your right needle.

- And pass the second stitch over the first without knitting into either of them. So, it's exactly as a standard bind-off. The only difference here is that you do not knit the first two stitches before passing over.

- Knit one stitch as normal.

- And pass the second stitch over the first one. So, just a normal bind-off stitch.

- From here, continue binding off more stitches as required and then work across the rest of the row as normal.

- Repeat steps 2-6. If you only need to bind off one stitch in a row, then continue working across the rest of the row right after passing over without knitting.
So the trick for a sloped bind-off really boils down to: Slip the last stitch of the return row, and bind off the first stitch without knitting into the first two stitches. That's it!
Notes
This concept works exactly the same on the left side of your project.
- Step 1: Slip the last stitch of the right side row and turn around
- Step 2: Slip the first two stitches over to the right needle and pass over without purling
- Step 3: Bind-off the next stitch as normal (or continue working across)
So, the trick is very simple: By slipping stitches and not knitting them, you are essentially creating a more gentle slope. The chart below tries to visualize this effect for you.

Now, I will have to say it is ESSENTIAL that you slip the stitches gently and point to point. Try not to wear them out too much as you slip them over. Otherwise, they will steal yarn from the adjacent stitches. The result will still be a sloped bind-off but one with sloppy edge stitches.
Try to slip them point-to-point. Let the stitches “fall” on the right needle instead of inserting it all the way.
Another issue I want to address in this tutorial is the age-old question: Can you bind off stitches on the left side as well? Obviously, that one-row offset between the two sides can be a bit visible. And the short answer is: “No, you really can’t!”
There is a slightly longer answer here. Yes, you can theoretically fake a bind-off on the left side. Two rows before you slip half of the stitches, and one row before the other half. Then, you stop knitting at the point where you want the bind-off to end. Slip the remaining stitches over to the right needle. Next, turn around, and pass the stitches over each other one at a time without knitting them (aka bind off). However, it will be structurally different and behave differently when seaming. So I don’t even think it’s worth the hassle.
Besides, since you typically only need this technique for things like sweaters, the offset will even out. The left side of the front and the back will be one row higher. However, when you seam them together, you are typically do so with the wrong sides facing each other. As a result, your seam will always be one higher side and one lower side. So, eventually, both seams will be on the same level.
Anyway, that’s how to knit a sloped bind-off. Comment below if you still have any questions

Brilliant!I shall certainly use it next time I’m knitting armholes.
Thank you Norman.
Definitely need to save this. As it happens I am nearing the armhole shaping on my current project.
What perfect timing Norman, Danke
I love it! I’m never neat arms or necks, so thank you. If you have any tips for neat raglan joins I’d be very grateful!
Rona
What an improvement! Looks neater and will be so much easier to sew up
Thankyou
I’m just about to do the armholes of a jumper and will save this as its simple and I’m sure it will help. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I’m knitting a cardigan for my husband and realised the sleeves are too long and too wide. I have had to undo them back to the beginning. I looked for a tutorial for smoother sleeve edges and found yours! It’s a wonderful way to do a curve and will be so much easier to join to the cardigan body. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Thanks Norman. Even though I try to slip stitches point to ping like you di, the first bind off stitch (that is the last slipped stitch from the purl row) always ends up quite stretched. How do I prevent this from happening? Thanks di much 🙂
hm…it’s probably because you carry too much yarn over to the last stitch and knit a bit on the looser side. Very little you can do against that (that doesn’t involve you changing your whole knitting style).
With a knititng needle, you can try to manually move the slack over to the adjacent stitches, tho.
Fab, thanks so much (and sorry for the typos!) 🫶🏻