How to knit in the round with double-pointed needles

There are many ways to knit in the round. For me, using a set of double-pointed needles (DPNs) is by far the best way and shows the neatest results. So, if you want to learn how to knit with DPNs, then you came to the right place.

In this tutorial, I’m going to show you the exact steps and techniques I use to knit all my socks, hats, and other knitting patterns that are knit in the round (like my easy beanie pattern). I’m also going to share some little tricks and tips with you from 30 years of knitting experience.

You might also want to check out my post with 10 tricks to knit in the round like a pro!

An introduction to double-pointed needles

A swatch knitted on double-pointed needle in the round
Note: Click here if you want to get right to the instructions

I know, knitting with a set of 5 double-pointed needles in the round sounds scary! It certainly looks awfully complicated. I mean, as a knitting beginner you probably wish you had one more hand just knitting with two needles. So, how on earth do you handle 3 more?

Well, let me tell you: Knitting in the round with double-pointed needles is certainly the most complicated way to knit socks, but it’s also the oldest and most time-proven method. A lot of knitters try it once, feel it’s too complicated, switch to Magic Loop or Circular needles, and never look back. So, wrong!

Knitting in the round on double-pointed needles

First of all, that logic is somewhat flawed. Your first scarf or potholder in garter stitch probably looked kinda wonky as well. But you persisted and now you can create beautiful wearables with your knits and purls (if you can’t, maybe go back to my free knitting school first). So, why should it be different with DPNs?

But perhaps more importantly: If you pick the seemingly easier method to start and get so used to it, learning the more complicated version will feel all the weirder and harder later on. That’s why I actually recommend starting with DPNs so you don’t fall into that trap (make sure to check my review of the best double-pointed knitting needles).

I knit larger objects like wraps, sweaters, etc using the Magic Loop technique and all the small circumference projects (like socks, or the tip of hats) with double-pointed needles. They all have their pros and cons. You need to identify them and use them accordingly. Just using one technique is like taking the car everywhere. Sure it’s convenient and easy, but taking a plane is cheaper for longer distances while walking to the grocery store further down the road might be better for your health and faster. It’s the same with knitting techniques. There’s a place for all of them!

So, without further ado, let’s dive right into it, eh?

Step-by-step instructions for knitting in the round on DPNS

I broke the process down into a couple of steps. In reality, most of it is one continuous motion but for the sake of this tutorial, I think it makes more sense to look at the individual steps separately.

The best DPNS for beginners

A folder with different double pointed needle sets
A bamboo needle set on the right and Karbonz needle set on the left.

Note: I earn a small commission for purchases made through links in this article.

Before you can start, you obviously need to buy a needle set first. I have a big guide on the best knitting needles for beginners here, but it doesn’t really touch DPNS, so I’m doing it here.

I personally always knit with the Knitter’s Pride Karbonz needles. They are expensive but they are close to the perfect needles for me. The metal tips allow fast knitting, while the carbon “body” is extremely durable (so they don’t bend or break like wood/metal). They also offer nice friction so stitches don’t slide off.

For beginners, simple bamboo needles might be better (I like these Addi bamboo needles). Bamboo is both very light and warm to the touch. The high friction of the wood prevents your stitches from sliding off if you glance the other way for a second (which certainly will happen with metal needles!). They are slower to knit with, but as you start, this is probably an advantage since you will want to take your time anyway.

Usually, DPNS come in two different sizes 15cm and 20 cm / 6 and 8″ inches. If you can, try to buy the smaller 15cm/6″ version. The bigger your dpns are, the more unwieldy it gets. Later, once you tackle larger projects, you can get the bigger variants. But for socks, you don’t need the extra length. They will just get in your way.

Needle sizes between 3-4mm (US size 3-6) are perfect to start with. If you go smaller (or bigger), things will get more complicated in my experience. Also, for socks (like my easy men’s sock pattern), size 3 / 3mm is perfect.

Step 1: Cast on Stitches as normal

cast on double pointed needles in the round
A standard longtail cast on with two needles

To begin, cast on as many stitches as your pattern requires using a single needle of your set. You don’t need any special cast-on techniques for knitting in the round. The longtail cast-on is just right for most projects, but use whatever you prefer.

You start a round project the same way you would if you knit flat. There are just two things you need to consider:

  1. I usually cast on using two needles, since you will have to move stitches around a bit. Using a needle two sizes bigger is also an option. Most objects knit in the round start with a ribbing of some kind. Two needles will also create a super stretchy edge.
  2. I always cast on one additional stitch. That way, I can create an invisible join (see step 3). So, if you need 40 stitches, then cast on 41.
  3. Consider starting your cast-on with a simple loop instead of a slipknot.

Step 2: Distribute the stitches

In the next step, you need to distribute the stitches to the 4 needles. A needle set always comes with 5 needles. One is the working needle, and the rest can be used to hold the stitches.

slipping cast on stitches on a second dpn
Slipping the stitches to a second needle

So, pick up one needle, and then slip 1/4th of the stitches on this needle as if to purl. Insert the left needle into the stitch from right to left. But now, don’t purl it, just slip it. Say you cast on 41 stitches, then you slip 10 stitches in that way to this second needle.

Slipping cast on stitches to a second double-pointed needle
Slipping stitches to a third needle

Once you are finished, you pick up another needle and slip 10 more (or however many) stitches on this needle. Continue until there are the same number of stitches on all needles. Only the last needle has one more stitch.

Some tips for you:

  1. There is no need to have an exact even number of stitches on all needles. Sometimes, especially when you knit socks, you have a big repeat in the middle that may involve more than 1/4th of stitches. For example 15 stitches. So, in our example from above, you could keep 15 stitches on the middle needle, and then 8 on the two adjacent needles, and 10 on the last. Just try to keep a nice balance. If you had 18 stitches on two needles each, and then two needles with 2 stitches each, you’d lose all mobility and the extra tension would create ladders.
  2. A lot of tutorials tell you to knit with 3 needles only. This is not a good idea if you ask me (except for very small projects with less than 14 stitches). Why? Simple geometry. If you use 4 needles, you can fold your work-in-progress flat to store it away. With 3 needles, you always end up with one rigid triangle. 3 needles also tend to stress the stitches a lot more around the area where you move from one needle to the next.

Step 3: Join the stitches in the round

Now it’s time to join the stitches in the round. The first time you are doing this, this will feel a bit like juggling. Your needles may even slide out. The first rounds are always a bit fiddly – even for me. So, don’t let that discourage you. Just follow my advice here.

stitches evenly distributed on 4 double-pointed needles

Put the four needles in front of you and arrange them so they form a square. Take care, and check whether you accidentally twisted your cast-on edge. It should point towards the center in one continuous line without twisting around the needles. If it does, untwist it.

There is one needle with the tail from your cast on. This will be your fourth needle. And the needle to the left of your cast-on tail will be your first needle. The needles in between are your second and third respectively.

picking up the needle set with the cast on stitches

Now, pick up the four needles carefully without twisting them again. Try to keep them in this exact position and make sure the working yarn isn’t tangled with the tail.

invisble join in the round on double-pointed needles

To create an invisible join, you need to…

  1. slip the first stitch on your first needle onto the fourth (last) needle. Make sure to secure the tail of the cast-on so you don’t accidentally unravel the last stitch.
  2. Next, lift the original last stitch (now the second stitch from the left on the fourth needle) over the first stitch.
  3. And drop it off the needle, the way you would perform a standard bind-off.
  4. Slip the remaining stitch back to the first needle and pull gently on the tail to tighten the stitch-up. And just like that, you joined in the round.

Note: There are different ways to join knitting in the round. I feel this is a simple solution with nice results.

Step 4: Start knitting in the round

knitting the first stitch in the round with double-pointed needles

You already have a joined circle (or rather square) of stitches in front of you. So, pick up the working yarn, and make sure it’s in the right place (so, probably in the back if you are doing a knit stitch) and you didn’t accidentally twist it around. If the yarn got tangled in between the needles, free it first with one hand while holding on to your needles with the rest.

And now you can just start knitting across all stitches with the remaining fifth needle. Consider slipping the first for a super invisible join. Other than that, you don’t need any special technique. Your regular knits or purls will do just fine. When you are finished knitting all the stitches on this needle, slide the stitches to the center and proceed to step 5.

keeping a high tension for the second stitch on dpns
Keep up a high tension to avoid creating gaps between the needles

Important: Make sure to knit the first two stitches with a high tension so you don’t create a gap where you joined the two needles. Tighten up afer the second stitch only

Step 5: Switch to the second needle

finished the first dp needle
Knitting the last stitch on the first needle

Once you’ve knit all the stitches on the first needle, it’s time to rotate your project around. You should have one free needle by now and you can use it to start on the next (that would be the second) needle the way you would normally start a new row if you were knitting flat.

Starting knitting on the second double pointed needle in the round
Preparing to start with the second needle

Before you do that, you should move around the needles so your working needle rests on top of the previous and next needle. That way you ensure that you can move your working needle around freely. Otherwise, you may face some difficulty knitting the first couple of stitches or the last few stitches.

Also, make sure your working yarn doesn’t get tangled in between the needles. This may create accidental yarn over. Always check and untangle if needed.

Once you are set, knit across all stitches according to your pattern and try to keep a good and even tension – especially for the first two stitches so you don’t create a visible gap.

Step 6: Continue knitting

placing a stitch marker after the first round on dpns

From here, the process is pretty straightforward. Just continue switching to new needles as described in step 5. So, every time you have to start with a new needle, move the new working needle to the top and the working yarn around (in case you’ve caught it with a needle).

Once you’ve finished the first round (so after needle four), you may place a stitch marker. This is not entirely necessary. Your tail from the cast-on will dangle in the exact same place and you can use that as a reference to identify the start of your round.

If you still want to place a stitch marker, then slip one stitch from the fourth needle onto the first needle and place the stitch marker there. Otherwise, it would simply slip off your needles.

Step 7: Bind off (optional)

Most tubular projects don’t need a bind-off. Often you will be working towards a tip (like in socks or hats). So, in essence, you are decreasing your stitch count to a point where there are so few stitches left, that you can simply use a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the stitches, and tie a knot/weave in the end.

For wraps or headbands, you will obviously want to bind off your stitches. In this case, there are no special methods needed either. The regular cast-off/bind-off techniques work just as well in the round.

How to prevent laddering when knitting in the round

A swatch where laddering occurs when knitting in the round on double pointed needles
A swatch where I intentionally created a ladder

At this point, we have to talk about something important: Laddering. Because you are not knitting on one needle, you can create a visible seam at the spot where you switch needles if you don’t pay attention. This happens when you don’t keep an even tension as you switch needles. Multiple loose-knit stitches above each other will look a bit like a tiny little ladder, hence the name.

In the beginning, this will probably be a problem for you. But there are two easy ways to prevent it:

  • First of all, it’s all about keeping a neat tension. So, remember to keep the previous needle close to the the first stitch. But, and this is even more important, you have to pull tight after the second stitch. Why? Well, if you pull tight after you knit the first stitch, it will ease up a bit right away because there are not enough stitches to create enough friction. When you have two stitches on your needle, then and there can you really pull tight for a lasting effect.
  • Secondly, ladders are cumulative effects. If you switch needles a bit too loosely once, then this will give the two needles the freedom to move around a bit more, and this again, will pronounce the laddering within every round. So, when you notice a ladder, it’s NOT enough to simply pull tight from here on. What you also have to do is, you have to slip two (or more stitches) over to the next needle to get away from these already loose stitches.
    You can also do this as a preventive measure and slip stitches back and forth ever so often.

I put together a much more detailed post on how to prevent ladders when knitting in the round here with 10 tips for neater results. Kindly check that out if you need more pointers.

How to store your project on double-pointed needles

folding the project on dpns

The advantage of DPNS is also the biggest problem: They have two ends and there’s no little knob. This means, your precious work can slide off from two ends at any time. Since you probably don’t want your work to unravel during knitting breaks, you have to take preventive measures.

That’s one of the reasons I recommend knitting with 5 needles. That way, you can fold the four needles so they form two parallel lines. Then, I usually take my working yarn and wrap it around project to secure it and the needles. And off it goes into my project bag. In 30 years of knitting, I cannot remember any accidents – not even once.

That being said, it might still be a good idea to buy some needle stoppers (here is a link to the ones I am using). You can also use corks or rubber bands (just wrap them around a couple of times).

So, That’s how you knit in the round on double-pointed needles. Make sure to comment if you have any questions.

How to knit in the round with double-pointed needles

23 thoughts on “How to knit in the round with double-pointed needles”

  1. Came across this website while looking for a pattern for a men’s Beanie.
    Its especially a fantastic website for the beginner and has lots of information and
    advise on how to knit with 4 needles. Wish I had found it when I first started
    to knist. All the information you need can be found from the many tutorials.’

  2. Wish I had found your site earlier. These are the clearest and most simply explained instructions I have found. Thank you.I will be keeping your site in my knitting list of best knits.

  3. Wow! I actually understand the process now! I am a self taught “beginner knitter” and I’ve wanted to learn to knit socks but everything I have found is too complex or intimidating for a beginner. This is amazingly detailed and “dumbed down” 😋enough for me to understand!! Z Thank you for taking the time to do this!

  4. Hey Norman, you are now my “source of truth”. I learnt to knit as a kid and loved it until my mid 30’s when kids and jobs got in the way. Now in my retirement I am coming back to it to find the knitting world has changed enormously. Two needles have gone to in the round! Yikes, new learning for me. English style to continental style. More new learning. So grateful to find you offering your enormous knowledge, it is definitely making the learning curve a little less steep. Wish me luck!

  5. Thank you Norman for the information on knitting with dpns. I have knit many pairs of socks on them and always, always got laddering. Then knitting socks on Magic Loop came along and I tried it. Got as far as the heel turn and couldn’t figure out the rest so back to dpns and more laddering. Your tips have given me the inspiration to try again so thank you so very much.

  6. So glad I found your Youtube and website on knitting socks before I really got myself confused using the DPN’s. Thank you so much for your information and help on knitting.

  7. Have sets of 5 dpn’s been available in Europe for longer than elsewhere? People of my mother’s generation who started knitting in the 40’s in Canada were only familiar with sets of 4 (unless they read a lot of new knitting articles in later years). Could that be why so many North Americans still use and pass on the “stitches on 3 needles” technique?

    • I don’t think 4 needle sets every were available in Europe. I can’t really tell you why things started with 4 needles in the US. But I learned not to question these things. A lot of knitting things/techniques in the US are done in a way I personally would call inefficient or inherently flawed. But quite apparently a lot people enjoy them, so who am I to judge them!

  8. I am so glad I came across your videos and website. I have learnt so much in such little time, I am venturing to patterns I would normally pass by. Mittens! I can finally knit mittens with DPNs. It is so nice to be able to make matching mittens, toques and scarves. I will keep watching and reading your instructions, so please, keep posting them. Thanks for taking the mystery out of all this and making it a fun, productive hobby.

  9. I don’t even remember how/why I got to your website but I’m sure glad I did!! What a phenomenal collection of techniques – super easy to follow and great pictures! I’ve been knitting for a while now and consider myself an advanced beginner. I’ve always struggled with DPNs and your tutorial had some great tips on how to make it easier. Thank you SO much!!! (and I can only hope to one day be good enough to tackle your Bavarian sock pattern – holy cow!!!)

  10. Hello
    I posted yesterday, but my comment isn’t visible anymore, so I’m trying again. We’ve been experiencing internet difficulties lately. Please accept my apologies if this is a repeat.
    I discovered you a few months ago through my work mate, and I’m delighted with your tutorials. Thank you!
    I have a question from your tutorial explaining how to knit on dpns. You begin your transfer and distribution of stitches at the opposite end of the tail. Is there a reason for that and does it matter?
    I’m asking because I cast on all my stitches on to a regular straight needle, which means I must work off the tail end of the needle.
    Thank you from a newbie sock and dpn knitter.

  11. Hi Norman
    Any ideas on how to cast on 4 stitches and then place them one by one onto 4 needles and then make a circle. It is so frustrating, can you help make it easier please.
    Wendy Morris


    • Well, some people knit one or two rounds flat before they join in the round. you will have to sew the little gap together later on.

  12. What is a simple loop? How do I do that? Also if I add an extra stitch for joining do I want it on needle 1 or needle 4? Great article!!

    • a simple loop is a wrap around your needles. Doesn’t matter which needle the extra stitch is. but it WILL get substracted from the last one.

  13. Norman, this video tutorial was amazing! You made it so easy to understand how to join in the round and how to continue knitting in the round on DPNs. I’ve only been knitting just over a year and this is my first time working with DPNs – I must say I’m so grateful to have found your blog. Thank you for making such a wonderful tutorial!

  14. Dear Norman,
    How do I add the missing knit on the 4th needle back after having slipped over the last knit on the 4th needle over the 1st knit of the 1st needle to create an invisible join, please?

    • just slip it back in the next round. Though, I typically do not do this. in 99% of all cases it doesn’t make any difference.


Leave a Comment