A step-by-step tutorial on knitting socks for beginners, the traditional way on double-pointed needles, and an easy striped pattern that fits everyone
So you are looking for a tutorial on how to knit socks? You want a simple top-down pattern suitable for beginners, you can finish fast, and without years of experience? Well, then you came to the right place!
I’ve been knitting socks for as long as I can remember. If you look around my blog, you will find quite a lot of (free) sock patterns (like my Bavarian Socks, my basic ribbed socks, or socks with a lovely cable detail). You might want to save them for later. Even as a child, I always only wanted to wear hand-knitted socks – much to the joy (and sometimes dismay) of my grandmother.
Now, there are many ways to knit socks. Toe-up, two at a time, even flat using two needles, and then, of course, using magic loop. This tutorial shows you how to knit a pair of socks the traditional way. Why? Because this is a time-proven method that will fit anyone – no matter their shoe size or gender.
Later on, and once you are familiar with the process, I certainly urge you to experiment a bit and find techniques that suit your style of knitting and your body even better. But for now, I think it’s best to start with a super simple sock pattern suitable for advanced beginners. And really don’t be scared of the double-pointed knitting needles. All it takes is a bit of practice and some tips and you’ll never look back!
My design is with stripes, but you can also knit it in just one color. I recently knit some plastic-free naturally dyed socks following the exact same pattern.
So, let’s dive right into it! And don’t forget to download these instructions in case you want them as a pdf.
1. Materials you need to knit a sock
Note: I earn a small commission for purchases made through links in this article.
Most sock patterns use very thin yarn and equally thin needles. If you want to wear your socks every day (and not just in winter), then you really have no other choice but to produce a light and breathable fabric that doesn’t turn your shoes into a sauna. Still, this sock recipe will work out with DK-weight yarn as well (and 3.00 mm needles) just as fine.
You’ll need:
- 100-150 grams of a fingering weight sock yarn suitable for needles size 2.5 mm. I am using a very lovely yarn by Samelin Dyeworks.
- Double-pointed knitting needles size 2.50 mm. I am using these Knitter’s Pride Karbonz needles. The best sock needles on the market, in my opinion. I feel they are fast to knit with AND have a lot of grip. There are 6 and 8-inch dpns. For socks, 6 inches are muuuuch better.
- A tapestry needle and scissors
- Measuring tape
- (optional) A crochet hook 2.00 mm for picking up the stitches for the heel. I used the Knitter’s Pride Waves here.
- (optional) Stitch markers
- (optional) Needles stoppers
Kindly note that I will be knitting these socks using three different colors. I am doing this so I can show you how to knit the popular stripes. If you like the way that looks, then you need one 100-gram skein and two 50 grams skeins of the same yarn base (don’t mix brands!!!). But you can also knit with just one color, and it will actually be easier.
Tip: I used the scraps from this project to knit my cable knit socks.
2. How many stitches to cast on for socks
The first thing you need to do is figure out how many stitches you need to cast on. And THE ONLY WAY to find your answer is by knitting a swatch and then doing some easy calculations. While there are sock charts (or patterns), you will have to knit a swatch to verify your gauge (and knit again if you were off). So, I think it’s much easier & more reliable to do it yourself.
I have a very detailed tutorial showing you how to figure out the cast-on requirements for socks, but here’s the brief version:
Step 1: Cast on 30 stitches and knit 30 rows in plain stockinette stitch using the same yarn and needles you want to knit your socks with. Then bind off.
Step 2: Wash and block your finished swatch (important!)
Step 3: Count how many stitches you need to cover 5 cm / 2 in.
Step 4: Measure your feet at their widest point (typically around the ankle/heel).
Step 5: Do some easy math:
- Divide the number of stitches you counted by the width you measured.
- Multiply the resulting factor by the circumference of your foot.
- Subtract ~15% to account for the negative ease of the st st.
- Round to the nearest number divisible by 4.
And that’s how many stitches you need to cast on.
Note: This is a simplified version. Normally, you would have to knit a proper swatch in the round, figure out the ease of your swatch, etc. As this is quite difficult to get right, I feel it’s much easier to verify your results by trying on your socks in the making after round 30. As a beginner, that’s still faster than trying to knit the perfect swatch.
3. Knitting the cuff
Once you’ve figured out how many stitches you need to cast on, pick up your double-pointed knitting needles, and you can start knitting the cuff. Check out this tutorial if you don’t know how to knit in the round on double-pointed knitting needles yet. And here’s a post with 10 tips for neater results with dpns.
- Cast on as many stitches as you need plus one using two needles to create a really stretchy edge using a standard long-tail cast-on. Then distribute these stitches to four needles.
For reference: I am casting on 68 stitches for a men’s size 8.5 (U.S.) - Join in the round by slipping the first stitch on the first needle to the last needle. Then pass the (now) second stitch on the last needle over the first (a bit like a bind-off). Slip the remaining stitch back to your first needle (and tug on the tails). (Check out this tutorial on how I join knitting in the round for more details)
- Knit across in a 2×2 rib for around 5 cm/2 in. The repeat is: *k2, p2* across all rows and stitches.
For reference: I am knitting 24 rows of ribbing.
Depending on your shoe size, you may want to knit a shorter or longer cuff.
Note: The first 1-4 rounds on double-pointed needles will always feel extremely precarious. That’s normal (even for me), and I urge you to persevere. Once you’ve covered a centimeter or so, things will stabilize tremendously!
4. Knit the leg
Once you are satisfied with your cuff, you can proceed with knitting the leg. While you can pick any other knitting stitch pattern as well, stockinette stitch is a very simple and effective stitch for the leg.
You may want to switch colors here, but either way, the instructions for the leg remain the same:
- Knit across all rows and stitches
IMPORTANT: After 30 rows or so, you should try on your sock in the making. You can either slip all stitches to a spare circular needle or thread a bit of scrap yarn on a tapestry needle and pull it through all stitches (to create a makeshift stitch holder).
That way, you can check if your cuff fits the way it should, and whether you can get it past your heel or not. If things don’t fit (it feels tight or slips down by itself), try to figure out how much more (or less) fabric you would need, unravel and adjust your cast-on accordingly.
Don’t try on your socks after only 10 rows. Ribbing behaves quite differently before you’ve covered a significant stretch. From here, I urge you to frequently try on your socks after each major step to verify the fit.
4.1 How long should you knit the leg?
Remember the measurements of your feet at their widest point? You need that number again. So, pick up your measuring tape, put it around your calf, and go up to the point where you have the exact same circumference. And then, measure the distance towards the ankle knuckle.
Now, obviously, you already covered 5 cm for the cuff (or however many rows you knit). So, you have to subtract that number.
In my case, I measured 20 cm, which means I have to knit 15 cm in stockinette stitch.
Note: If you have very strong calves (or a very narrow ankle), your socks might end up rather short. To combat that, you would have to cast on more stitches and then decrease to the original calculation as you go down.
4.2 How to add stripes
Stripes can be a very fun way to make your sock appear less plain without adding a lot of knitting complexity. Basically, you only have to join in a new yarn every couple of rows. There are, however, some rules you need to observe:
- If your stripes are only 4 rows or fewer, then you can carry the yarn on the back side.
- If your stripes are above 5 but below 10, then you can carry the yarn on the backside, but you need to create floats on the backside every 2 or 3 rows by crossing the yarn (like in Fair Isle; or watch the video in this post).
- If your stripes are more than 10 rows, I recommend cutting off the yarn after you’ve finished each stripe. You will end up with a lot of tails to weave in, but it’s the neatest and most secure option.
Knitting stripes can be quite visible if you do it wrong. So, definitely read my guide on knitting jogless stripes in the round.
One important note: Don’t place the “jog”/where you change yarn at the beginning or end of a needle. That runs the risk of creating a ladder. Instead, always do it somewhere in the middle of your needle. Use a stitch marker to mark the new beginning of your round.
5. How to knit a sock heel
Once you are satisfied with your leg, it’s time to move forward and knit the heel. A classic sock heel consists of three parts: The heel flap, the heel itself, and the gusset.
While there are other methods to knit a heel (like the really simple German short-row heel, etc), the classic heel-flap & gusset technique allows you to adjust the fit according to your size & preferences. Some people have very high (or flat) insteps, and this is by far the easiest way to make socks fit – even if it requires you to pick up stitches.
Let’s show you how to knit a sock heel the traditional way, eh?
5.1 Heel Flap
I always recommend knitting a reinforced heel with slipped stitches. Typically, the heel is a region that sees the most wear & tear, and this helps to prevent holes. You can also knit the heel holding a second yarn (like a thin nylon thread) together for even more durability.
Either way, no matter how many stitches you cast on, you always knit the heel flap across half the number of stitches, rounded down to the next number divisible by 4 (in my case, 32 stitches). You’ll knit it flat. Typically, across the first and second needle, and then you turn around. Here’s the repeat:
- RS: *SL1p wyib, k1*
- WS: *SL1p wyif, p1*
Note: If you are knitting stripes, simply join in the new color at the start of the heel flap (but keep the other yarns attached). For a neater transition, you may consider knitting the first row. Also, consider knitting the heel for the second sock across the 3rd and 4th needles. That way, you can hide the “jog” on the inside of your calves where it’s less visible.
How high should the heel flap be?
The ideal heel flap is as long as the distance from your ankle knuckle to your sole. In my case, that’s around 5.5 centimeters. So, take up your measuring tape again, and check how long you need to knit.
5.2 Turning the heel
After you’ve finished the heel-flap, you need to turn the heel. This is done using a very simple short-row technique. Here are the instructions:
- Preparation: Knit to the exact center of your heel (in my case 16 stitches), continuing the slipped stitch pattern (*Sl1, k1*)
- Row 1: K1, SSK, k1 <turn around; don’t finish the row>
- Row 2: SL1p wyif, p3, p2tog, p1 <turn around>
From here, continue like this until you’ve used up all stitches:
- RS: SL1p wyib, knit up until 1 stitch before the gap, SSK, k1 <turn around>
- WS: SL1p wyif, purl up until 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1 <turn around>
5.3 Picking up stitches for the gusset
The gusset is probably the only truly difficult part of knitting a sock. That’s because you have to pick up stitches, and a lot of beginners shy away from that (it sounds so complicated, right?). The process is pretty straightforward, though. Let’s show you how to knit a gusset:
Note: The instructions are slightly different if you are knitting with only one color (see below); basically you have to follow the steps in a different order.
Step 1: Cut the yarn for the heel, pick up the color you knit your last stripe with, place a stitch marker, and pick up one stitch from the gap between the heel flap & your (old) 4th needle with a crochet hook. This will prevent a hole from forming here at the top of your gusset.
The stitch marker marks your new beginning of your round.
Step 2: And then, pick up one stitch from every edge stitch. Try to tighten up the stitches ever so often.
Step 3: Knit across the heel (I always join in a new needle in the middle).
Step 4: Pick up stitches from the other side of the heel flap. One stitch through every (slipped) stitch of the edge.
Step 5: Pick up one more stitch from the gap, and place a stitch marker. Check if you picked up an equal number of stitches on both sides, and that you didn’t accidentally skip a stitch.
Step 6: Knit across the remaining stitches on your (old) 3rd and 4th needle, and join in the round again.
If you are only knitting in one color, then simply follow these steps in a different order. Start at step 3 (so, simply knit across the heel one more time), and after step 6, finish with steps 1, and 3.
5.4 Knitting the gusset
Once you’ve picked up all stitches, you can start knitting the gusset. Basically, it boils down to decreasing back to your original number of stitches.
- Round 1: SSK, knit across until 2 stitches before the second stitch marker, k2tog, slip the marker, and finish knitting the round.
- Round 2: knit
Repeat these two rounds until you are back to your original number of stitches.
If you are knitting in one color, your round starts at the top of the heel. In this case, you have to knit up to 2 stitches before your first marker, k2tog, knit to the next marker, slip it, ssk, and finish the round.
Note: Avoid knitting an SSK or K2tog as the last or first stitch on a new needle. This will create holes/ladders. Shuffle stitches around instead.
Adjusting the fit: Once you’ve finished knitting the gusset of your socks, I recommend trying them on one more time. Some people have very flat feet. If you notice the fabric is still a bit too loose across your instep, you may consider decreasing for 1 or even 3 more rounds until it fits (if it’s too tight, simply unravel a round or two).
6. Knitting the Foot
Right after the gusset, you can simply continue knitting in stockinette stitch. If you added stripes, then continue your pattern. You don’t need to do any decrease, etc.
How long should you knit the foot of your sock?
This depends on your size. The shoe size will tell you exactly how long your total foot should be. However, you need to subtract the length of the gusset & heel (should be easy), and the toebox. And the latter is the problem, since you haven’t knitted it yet.
Now, I could tell you that my leg (starting from the gusset) is 11 cm long, and the toebox is 5 cm. But depending on your size & yarn these measurements WILL be different. One method that almost always works is to stop knitting the leg once you reach the middle of your pinky toe.
Note: If you have rather long toes, then start once you reach the tip of your pinky toe. Here’s my full tutorial on when to start decreasing the toes.
7. Knitting the toes
The start of the toe box marks the last stretch before you cross the finishing line. So, take a deep breath, from here, each round is going to get shorter and shorter. Here’s how to knit the toes of a sock:
- Preparation: Make sure you have an equal number of stitches on the top two and the bottom two needles. The gaps should align with the decrease lines from your gusset.
Place your sock in front of yourself the way you would wear it, so the toes are pointing away from you. There are two needles on top, and two at the bottom. And you have to decrease always one stitch before and one stitch after the gap between the bottom and the top. There are NO decreases in the middle.
I always start the toebox on the left bottom needle. You may consider placing a stitch marker here. - Round 1-3: Change color (optional), knit
- Round 4: K1, SSK, knit across until 3 stitches before the end of your second needle, k2tog, k2, SSK, knit across until 3 stitches before the end of your fourth needle, k2tog, k1.
- Round 5: knit
- Continue repeating rounds 4+5 until you’ve halved your number of stitches.
- And then decrease in every round until you’ve halved your number of stitches one more time.
8. Kitchener stitch & weaving in the tails
Once you only have 16 or 20 stitches left, it’s time to finish your socks with a kitchener stitch. So, cut the working yarn, leaving a tail of 10 inches or so, and follow the instructions (click on the link).
Theoretically speaking, you could also decrease until you have only 8 stitches left, and pull the yarn through these last stitches. This will, however, create a very pointy toe that doesn’t have the ideal fit. So, I don’t really recommend it.
And then you have to weave in the tails. Before you do that, I have to mention two things. First of all, I want to congratulate you on finishing your first sock! You can be super proud of yourself!
And then, you should instantly try them on. I mean, you were probably going to do that anyway, but I think it’s important. If you notice that your toebox is too big or needs to be a bit roomier, you would have to unravel and adjust accordingly (by starting the toes earlier or later).
Once you are satisfied, you only have to weave in your tails. I always do it with a sharp tapestry needle. Read my full tutorial on how to weave in ends here.
8. Blocking (optional)
Okay, I lied, there is one more thing we need to talk about: To block or not to block? Blocking refers to the process of gently washing your finished project in lukewarm water, pinning it to a soft surface (without overstretching), and letting it dry. This will block the shape and neaten up your stitches (here’s a full tutorial on how to block knitting).
So, do you need to block socks? If you look around Etsy, you will find tons of sock blocking boards. And they are really great for shooting pictures of your finished socks. But other than that, I really have to say it’s not mandatory (like when you are knitting lace).
You will wash your socks frequently anyway, and your feet are warm and always a bit damp anyway. So, the appearance of your socks will change over time, no matter what. But, if it’s a gift or you want to shoot a nice picture, blocking can be an option.
Also, some yarns contain spinning oils, etc, so I personally think that washing your socks once before wearing them the first time can be a smart thing anyway.
Last thoughts on knitting socks
So, let’s wrap things up. I hope you figured out for yourself that you need to follow the exact same instructions for your second sock. Other than maybe moving around the heel to hide the jog, there is no difference. Start right away, or else you will develop second sock syndrome.
Nevertheless, you might notice how your first sock doesn’t have the perfect fit. Most beginner socks end up a bit too big or somewhat wonky. And that’s normal and nothing that should diminish your achievement. Still, you can adjust these tiny little things for your second sock already.
Maybe you can cast on 4 more stitches, or knit the heel a centimeter higher, etc. And for your next pair of socks, use the exact same pattern and the exact same yarn. Because if you mix things up, you need to start all over again!
How to knit socks
These are the exact step-by-step instructions for a men's size 8.5 as an example using a fingering weight yarn and needles size 2.5 mm. If you need it in a different size, here's how many stitches to cast on for socks.
Tools
Instructions
Step 1: Start with the cuff & leg
- Cast on 68 stitches (or however many stitches you need) in color A and knit around 5 cm in a 2x2 rib
- Round 1-24: *k2, p2*
- Round 25-33: Join in color B and knit across
- Round 34-36: Join in color C and knit across
Repeat rounds 25-36 five more times; carry yarn across on the backside and create floats every three rows where appropriate. The leg should be as long as the distance from mid-calf (the point where the circumference is the same as around the heel/ankle) to your ankle knuckle.
Round 97-100: knit in color b
Step 2: Knit the heel
Start with the heel-flap like this:
- Round 101: Join in color A and knit across half of your stitches (rounded down to the next number divisible by 4; 32 in my case), turn the work around without finishing that round to start the heel flap, and put the remaining stitches on hold.
- Row 1: *SL1, k1*
- Row 2: *Sl1, p1*
- Repeat rows 1+2 19 more times or however many you need to cover the distance from your ankle knuckle to your sole (5.5 cm in my case).
To turn the heel, knit to the exact center of your heel-flap continuing the slipped stitch pattern. And then
- Row 1: K1, SSK, K1
- Row 2: SL1p wyif, p3, p2tog, p1
- Every right side: SL1p wyib, knit up until 1 stitch before the gap, SSK, k1
- Every wrong side: SL1p wyif, purl up until 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1
From here, pick up color B again (and cut color A), place a stitch marker, pick up one stitch from the gap between the last needle and the heel-flap, and then pick up one stitch through every edge stitch of the heel flap (20 in my case) using a crochet hook. Knit across the heel, then pick up stitches from the other side of the heel-flap edge as well. Pick up one additional stitch from the gap, place a stitch marker, and then knit across the remaining stitches you put on hold before you started the heel flap.
To knit the gusset of your sock:
- Row 1: Slip the stitch marker, SSK, knit across up until 2 stitches before the next stitch marker, k2tog, knit the remaining stitches
- Row 2: knit
- Repeat rows 1+2 until you are back to the original number of stitches (68 in my case)
Step 3: Knit the Leg
For the leg, continue knitting in plain stockinette stitch, changing colors every 9/3 rows respectively. You can stop knitting the leg once it reaches the middle of your pinky toe. You may consider carrying the stitch markers along, as they mark the places where you need to decrease the toes (but maybe attach them one row below so you don't have to slip them all the time).
Step 4: Knit the toes
Join in color A again (and cut color b&c). Make sure you have an equal number of stitches on the top and bottom two needles (34 in my case; I need to shuffle around 2 stitches).
- Row 1-3: Knit
- Row 4: K1, SSK, knit across the first and second needle until there are only 3 stitches left, k2tog, k2, SSK, knit up until 3 stitches before the end of the fourth needle, k2tog, k1
- Row 5: knit
- Repeat rows 4+5 until you've halved the number of stitches (17 in my case), then decrease in every row until you've halved the number of stitches again (8 in my case).
- Finish the socks with a Kitchener stitch.
Step 5: Weave in all tails on the inside
Notes
If you decide to knit these socks in only one color, the instructions are exactly the same (except you don't switch colors). Only the heel is different. Here you have to pick up stitches in a different order and start by knitting across the heel flap one more time. And remember that you need to move the start of your round a couple of stitches for the toes.
Anyway, I hope I was able to show you how to knit socks for beginners, and you were able to knit along. Comment below in case you have any questions.
I just bought short circular Chiagoo needles to do socks in the round. I have made a couple pairs of socks with dpns. I really want to try these circs with your pattern. Do I need to transfer to dpns at the heel? Use stitch markers? Thanks!
Hey Francine,
sorry for answering a bit later. was on vacation. Yes and no…typically people do join in dpns for the heelflap but keep the unused stitches on the circulars.
Just a perfect and detailed written words of knitting socks. Can I please translate this post in Korean on my blog? Of course with the original link and thanks. I searched so hard for a free pattern for socks in Korean and there was none found by my skill of searching. This is just so detailed and everything of knitting socks. Please let me share it with Korean free pattern lovers. I’ll wait for your answer.
I am sorry, but you absolutely cannot republish my patterns on a different website. Thank you for your understanding.
Usually, your browser will translate the words into any language. Or you can just look at the pictures!
An alternative idea would be for you to translate it and send the translation to Norman so he can offer a Korean version of his pattern on HIS website. That would make it available to Korean knitters. Other than that you could use an online translation app or extension there are really good quality translators these days that you can add to your browser that accurately translate into any language.
I like this pattern because it’s less of a pattern, with an exact st count, and more of a technique that can really be modified to anyone’s sizing or design needs. It also really makes you learn what you’re doing instead of simply following instructions.
I am an experienced knitter and this pattern was very easy, with the exception of the wording around the short rows section – which took me a minute to visualize + a little youtube tutorial.
I feel like this basic sock pattern could easily be modified to anyones liking. Thanks for a great how-to!
Happy to hear that Lauren.
you did see that there is a video attached to this page (and on my youtube channel) where you can see me knitting it, right?
Hi norman,✋
I have made my first sock ever using your pattern , and it turned out great!! I am a crocheter en have only been knitting for a few weeks. I totally love it already! Thanks to your fantastic videos and tips it has been a pleasure learning new skills.
Thanks so much ✌️
You know, I didn’t really poke around the site and just skimmed the pattern. But I will next time! Thanks
Hello again Norman,
I’m curious if you know of a toe-finishing technique that would give you a seam on top of the toe, similar to a store bought athletic sock. If you know what this technique is called, if appreciate it very much! I haven’t been able to find anything like this in my own research.
Thanks
I am not sure why you would want that? I mean…you can just stop knitting and sew over because that’s what they do…but..uh
I think it would look interesting and possibly be more comfortable. I’ll continue my search. Thanks anyway!
Hey Lauren,
well i can understand the sentiment but a Kitchener Stitch literally leaves no seam on the inside or the outside, so I couldn’t imagine how having a seam on the outside would be more comfortable or a better fit. Quite the opposite, in fact.
If you look into the creation of the Kitchener stitch, you will find that it was recommended as the previous seaming methods created a worse fit. – which led to blisters, more moisture etc – all these things the soldiers in the World Wars didn’T need.
Hi! Sorry for intruding, but I’m pretty sure most commercial socks use short-row toes. When making them in a top down sock you get to the end of the foot and start basically the same as a shortrow heel (with the stitches divided in thirds). When you get to the last “decrease” you are at the top of the big toe, start “increasing” again and when you’re finished you need tp graft the toe stitches to the foot stitches. Here comes the choice of seam: using a kitchener stitch you won’t be able to see the seam but you could use another method to get a different look (I know there is a purl equivalent to the kitchener stitch but I can’t remember the name)
There’s a tutorial here on my blog for the kitchener stitch on the purl side. And I don’t think it has a name, and neither does it require one. It’s just a simple purl graft where the steps are exactly mirrored.
Hi Norman,
Having trouble finding a good sock yarn at Michaels or Joann Fabrics.
I’m looking for something heavy for winter
Any suggestions?
Hey Rhonda,
as I do not live in the U.S. I cannot provide you with tips for retail stores. Sorry 🙁
Hello, Norman, Thank you for this sock pattern and all the things you’ve done to show how to work it. In particular, I am so glad you mentioned to use only yarn that is stated to be sock yarn. That one bit of advice will keep me out of so much trouble! I will be starting on my first-ever pair of socks soon using this pattern.
Hi, Norman,
Just discovered this site and I want to try your instructions for the toes, but I have my stitches on just three needles, not four, plus I’ve never used markers. Although I have made socks before, I’m not the most confident knitter yet and I’m not sure about rounds 5 and 8 and when to decrease.
My needles 1 and 3 have 17 stitches and needle 2 has 32. Do I decrease at the end of #1, beginning and end of #2, and then beginning of #3? My usual pattern just has the decreasing happening on #1 and #3.
Finally, when I’m decreasing every round, do I follow this same pattern as for round 5/8?
Thanks for your help.
Katie
First of all, you might want to consider switching to 4 needles. It makes literally everything easier in my opinion.
As for how you distribute the stitches..it really doesn’t matter. Just cut your stitches into half, place two stitch markers to mark these positions, and decrease before and after the marker.
And yes, later on, you follow the exact same repeat just in every round.
I really do have to agree with Norman here…. you SHOULD use four needles for socks and anything in the round. I like Magic Loop myself, and get only ONE circular needle (about 80 cm or more) and it works great. But I do like four needles for any tubes.
Norman:
I just realized I was looking at the instructions for your ribbed-sock pattern, so the row numbers I referenced are not the same as the rows in the pattern above. But I think the questions still apply.
Katie
Hi Norman,
I’ve only started knitting a few months ago, and I found your YouTube channel. Ever since, I’ve been binging pretty much all of the videos 🙂 They are really great – your attention to detail and way of explaning things make it easy to follow. And, I like the design and high quality of the videos and your blog! I’ve just downloaded this pattern to make my first pair of socks, so maybe I can start the new year in brand new socks 🙂 Happy holidays to you and your familiy, and thank you SO much for all your work and advice!
Hey Louise,
thank you so much for this lovely feedback! And yeah..starting the new year with socks could be a lovely idea!
I think that I should have chosen a wool rather than cotton for my first go at the sock recipe 😀. I hope to use this pattern to become a proficient sock knitter with any wool and then start to include various stitches that take my fancy 🤓
yeah, cotton is very difficult to knit for socks. A wool blend will be a better choice for a beginner.
Do NOT use cotton for socks!! That is something you will learn…. the hard way!
Wool or wool blends are better. In this town, I cannot find any wool at all…. I have to spin my own! Maybe I have to order on line!
Hi Norman,
I’ve started knitting these socks (after watching your tutorial video dozens of times), and I feel as though I’ve run into a problem. I noticed that I have been knitting from the inside of the sock, moving counterclockwise (I’m still knitting the cuff). I see that you knit on the outside of the sock.
Do I need to change from knitting on the inside to knitting on the outside? If so how do I do this? My worry is that if I continue knitting following your pattern, I’ll mess up the instructions for the heel, gusset, and toes.
you can invert your knitting at any time…so simply stuff your cuff through your needles and you will be fine 🙂
It somewhat doesn’t matter…but if the knit side is not facing towards you, this can increase the chance for ladders as the yarn has to travel further as you bridge gaps between needles.
Thanks so much for replying! I actually did make the realization that I could invert it just after I wrote this comment lol, but either way, it was helpful to read your response as confirmation.
I noticed a slight bit of laddering, however now that I’ve knitted from the outside it’s disappeared, hopefully it doesn’t turn out to be an issue. Thanks again! Hoping these first pair turn out decently 😬
Hello,
Thank you for this pattern and all the great videos on your site. I’m knitting my first pair of socks and following this pattern. My question is about my knitting. The V’s are not even. Mine looks more like a row of slants going from bottom left to too right beside a row that appears almost straight, as in no distinguishable diagonals. I’d like to include a picture but I’m not sure how. Any suggestions as to what I’m doing wrong?
Thank you.
You are doing nothing wrong. It’s the twist stored in your yarn. There’s nothing you can do about it other than picking a different yarn. But, personally speaking, I’d say, as long as it is regular it’s still pretty!
This has to do with the twist in the yarn, AND your personal style of knitting.
As every spinner knows, you will ADD twist to the yarn with every stitch you knit, if you knit English or American style. With Continental, there is NO twist added. You may want to change your style of knitting, or just find a yarn with less twist.
If you are using a centre-pull ball, that may add twist as well. Try turning the ball over and use it from the other end! That sometimes helps. Or try the outside of the ball. But that adds another problem, for another time.
Okay, I really need to jump in here. Yes, you are right that it’s a combination of factors.
There is not a single knitting style that does not add twist. COntinental and English do counterclockwise, Eastern, clockwise but you always add twist to the yarn. It’s physically impossible not to do so.
Secondly, most people cannot (and don’t want to) change their knitting style.
Thirdly, yes, the way you wind, unwind, a skein will help. Ultimately, that will NOT change the fact that a heavily twisted yarn will result in stockinette stitch that looks a bit weird. You can mellow it down a bit, if you knit ribbing, you can avoid too extreme bias but ultimately, the twist you added through spinning/winning will never be the same ratio that the twist you add through knitting. So there will always be an imbalance.
These yarns were created for a reason because there are tons of projects where it looks lovely.
Hi Norman,
Thanks for all your work. I’m currently working on sock number 2 and I think that I found a small mistake in the instructions below the article. In section 5.2 Turning the heel you say the first row is k1, ssk, k1 (same is mentioned in the video). In the instructions below (step 2 knit the heel, turn the heel) you say that it is k1, sl1, ssk, k1. I guess the sl1 in the instructions is not supposed to be there.
Hey Nikolas,
I am quite sorry but I cannot find where I wrote this? On my screen it says “Row 1: k1, ssk, k1” I am not sure where you see the sl1? you only sleep stitches at the beginning of every row there.
It is in the instructions part below the main article:
“ To turn the heel, knit to the exact center of your heel-flap continuing the slipped stitch pattern. And then
Row 1: K1, SL1, SSK, K1
Row 2: SL1, p3, p2tog, p1…”
oh i see…down in the pattern card. Yes, that is a mistake. It’s correct int he article. thx for pointing that out!
oh i see…down in the pattern card. Yes, that is a mistake. It’s correct int he article. thx for pointing that out!
Hi Norman! Question on the gusset. SL1 (purlwise, correct?)… is this always with yarn in the back? Or yarn in the front? Does it even matter? Thanks!
when there is no indication how to slip 1, then always slip it purlwise with the yarn according to the knitting direction. But I’ll correct the pattern so it’s more clear. thank you.
Love your content and especially the videos you do. I am a newer knitter very determined to do socks this year. My right arm/hand is basically a placeholder and doesn’t oft do what I tell it. What type of needles would you suggest for my particular brand of challenge? I am having all kinds of fun trying to do an icord border with DPNs, so I am nervous about that. I’m also thinking about doing a DK for my first pair to make that part easier. I highly value your opinion and would like that before I started this journey. -M
One thing you could look into is lever knitting where you hold the right needle below your armpit or in a special knitting sheath/belt. I cannot teach you how to do it but it sounds like a very good option for you.
Norman, I have a question about negative ease. In your beginner sock instructions you say to “Subtract ~15% to account for the negative ease of the st st.”. When I knit a 1×1 rib hat, would I also subtract 15% when figuring out total stitches to cast on?
that will depend on your swatching and measuring method. But generally…no…ish.
The thing why I did 15% is. I am letting you measure at the widest point. And subtracting 15% is saying, okay you end up with a fabric/hem that is barely wide enough to fit around your ankle when you put things on.
For a hat, you typically want things to be a bit more comfortable
Hey Norman, first thank you for posting this- I’m really enjoying my new hobby thanks to you.
I’m having trouble after the heel turn. Specifically where I slip one then either knit or purl up to the gap, then either SSK or p2tog..I’m supposed to do this until I “use up all stitches.” I can continue this until I’m down to one stitch, but i don’t think that’s what you want me to do. It looks like the heel flap is supposed to have several stitches left when I start the gusset. How do I know when to stop the heel flap?
there’s a video attached to this post and on my youtube channel, probably easiest for you to just watch that.
But essentially you stop when there are no more stitches on the other side of the gap you could decrease.
Ah! I get it, thanks so much!!
Is there a gauge you recommend aiming for? I see a lot of sock patterns call for 8 stitches per inch with either 2.25mm or 2.5mm needles with fingering weight yarn.
I’m working on a pair of socks at 9.5 stitches per inch and starting to think maybe this is tighter than it needs to be.
Thank you for your question. Call me nostalgic, but please understand that I do not answer questions from anonymous people.
I have started my first sick twice. Partly because I found some amazing merlino/silk wool at a fair and also because I was unhappy with my stitch tension. Holding multiple needles of size 2mm and such fine wool is very tricky. However, as I have always wanted to try socks, I am excited to make my first pair.
Here to leave a big thank you. I just finished my first sock and the fit is amazing!! Your instructions were clear and I am grateful you shared your knowledge with me. I had to take out a couple rounds of when I had a couple glasses of wine and tried to knit all at once but that was totally my fault. The sock is super comfy and fits perfectly. I even managed to avoid having gaps. I took notes so I can replicate easily. I’m going to enjoy having warm feetsies this winter season. I am running around the house wearing one sock and singing so I better start the second!!! <3 Love from me, Rae
This is the first project I’m attempting after just finding your website. So informative, clearly laid out, and all of the videos and tips/tricks are so helpful (SO great for my ADD brain!). Thanks for sharing your passion with us. 🙂
Well as a really beginner knitter knitting socks was a very daunting proposal and your instruction and confidence helped me enormously. ı started off using 2.5 needles with fingering yarn which after many attempts started to go bald. I then got some extra chunky wool and 6.5 needles and am now at the toe box which after turning the heel is a doddle. My sock is not perfect the next one will be better and OK my bedsocks will not be a matching pair but they are my pair.
I decided to knit socks because the only ones that I can get here in Turkey are the very short nylon ones which are not all warm and the only alternative is the handmade ones which are more like boots than socks. I now feel that ı can go ahead with confidence and knit my own custom made socks that really fit. Thank you so much for your tutorial Norman.
I am knitting my first sock based on this. It has been very helpful. Thanks a lot!
I have a question about the heel. You mentioned that German short rows was a great technique for beginners in that video. Which one should I use for my first sock?
well, I would actually stick to this heel as it’s a lot more versatile. Maybe a bit more difficult but with a better fit and it’s easier to adjust it on top of that.
Got through the heel this way. Wasn’t as bad as I had dreaded. Your instructions and video was good enough for a newbie knitter. Thank you!!
Hi Norman! Could you please explain what you mean by: multiplying by the circumference of the foot? Is it the circumference at the front of the foot or the back? Thanks!
not sure what you mean…you take your reading typically somewhere in the middle of your foot.
Loved this blog post! I’m currently working on my first top down sock, and the information here has been really useful, especially regarding the gusset and heel flap. I’ve only ever made socks toe up before with German short row heels to avoid grafting, picking up stitches and “guessing” when to make the toe. But seeing your tubular cast on tutorial inspired me to give a traditional top down sock a go because I just loved the appearance of the cuff.
Thanks a lot for this tutorial, it has been very helpful!
I have a question, since I mostly knit “home” socks (not to be worn in shoes) I was wondering about reinforcing the heel turn and the sole in addition to the heel flap.
I love the pattern you recommend for the heel flap – it’s very durable and also rather pretty (as opposed to the striped “heel stitch”). I was wondering if there is a straightforward way to extend it to the sole?
I have to admit that I haven’t “just tried” it yet – but I am afraid just working half of the stitches in a *sl1 k1* (and *k1 sl1*) won’t quite work out – since the row height in this pattern is quite different than what would be used for the other half of the stitches…
Any way to make it work? Or recommended alternative stitch patterns?
Thanks again!
There is not and it would basically require a modified intarsia technique to do that. So, I would rather use an overall sturdy yarn or knit with two strands held together (one being a thin nylon thread).
Hi Norman, thank you so much for this tutorial and pattern, socks looked like a very intimidating project but your explanation was so thorough I just finished my first sock with very little frogging along the way!
This first sock I made I used some scrap yarn just to get the hang of all the techniques, but now I want to make a real pair and I have a question about the ribbing for the cuff; a lot of ribbing explanations advise to use a needle a size smaller than the one you’ll be using for the rest of the pattern to get a tighter/neater elastic ribbing, since you give the 15% subtraction for negative ease is it still a good idea to use that smaller needle or does that risk making the cuff too tight?
well, typically your legs gets wider the further up you go. So, that’s why i personally never go down a needle size for the ribbing of sock cuffs. But you can give it a try.
Dear Norman,
I have just finished my first pair of socks in dk yarn with rough bamboo 4mm dpns. Safe to say my gear was not really suited for this project, but is still managed to make a well fitting pair of socks. This was my first real dpn project and I absolutely loved making it! I found the gusset etc a little too intimidating so I did the german short row heel and it worked perfectly fine. I love this modern and online pattern, it really makes knitting accessible, even for this 19 year old:) Thank you very much and I will defenitely be using your website again.
Kind regards,
Noa
Hi Norman, when rejoining after the heel turn and picking up selvedge stitches, I noticed that my knitting became reversed as the stockinette pattern was not on the wrong side— I’ve had to purl the entire way to have stockinette face the right side. Do you know how this may have happened? This is my first sock so I know it may not be perfect. i dont want to make this mistake again when doing the second sock 🙁
then you must have picked up from the wrong side.
This is a great tutorial for beginners! I’m a beginner knitter and this was really helpful.
Hi Norman,
I am so glad to have found your channel and website. I am so happy with sock tutorial, it is the best I’ve seen. I especially appreciate the tips you give along the way. I have not made the socks yet, though I have knit socks in the past. Some patterns advise to knit the swatch in the round.
Is it advisable to knit in the round or is a flat stockinette swatch ok.
Thank you for all that you do!
Well, I would do it the way I describe it here. I wouldn’t ever bothered with an in the round swatch for socks.
Do you have a basic pattern for a knee-high sock? or how could you convert this pattern to a knee high?
Please sign me up for your newsletter.
P.S. I was signed up prior but just got a new email address.
Thank you!
Please use the form provided when you click on “newsletter” in the menue. I can’t subscribe you manually
Hi Norman! Thank you so much for your instructions!
I usually crochet, and I’m new to knitting…I wanted to try those socks, but I only have circular needles at the moment: could you help me understand how to adapt your pattern to the circular needles instead of the 4 double pointed needles?
There is nothing to adapt there. Just follow the exact same instructions.
Dear Norman,
I am following this pattern for my second ever pair of socks (the first I had a teacher) and have done about 16 rows of the leg after the ribbing. However, I am using West Yorkshire Spinners 4-ply yarn and am using 2.5mm needles instead of the recommended 3.25mm needles indicated on the yarn. The socks look OK but are seem like they will be too baggy even though I did the calculation you provided carefully. I have 17.5 stitches per 5cm, so 96 in total and the person I’m making them for doesn’t have particularly big feet (size 8 like yours). I’m confused why, because you have 13 stitches and my yarn should be thicker, so I should have fewer stitches? My socks look like they have more gaps around the stitches even though I’ve been trying to keep the tension tight to avoid this. Do I need to start again with bigger needles? Decrease after the ribbing? Use a pattern more suitable for my yarn? Very confused. Thank you in advance to anyone who has any insight 🙂
there could be a million different reasons for this. I might be a much tighter knitter, not all yarns behave the same, there might be a mistake in your calculations.
Suffice to say, if you feel the result is not what you expected…well..you do have a very reliable swatch in front of you. YOu can unravel that but before…take notes and use it to adjust things.
Hello!
I have a small question.
I knit the first sock last year, after which I developed a severe second sock syndrome so I’m only working on the second one now. I’m now at the heel flap part and I just noticed that on my first sock, I slipped the stitches on the WS with the yarn in the back instead on the front, which created a bit of a different look but I think it doesn’t change the functionality or anything. Now I’m wondering whether to repeat this “mistake” on my second sock or not…
Also, it might be good to specify where the yarn should be during the slipping because a year ago as a beginner, it didn’t occur to me at all that I should be thinking about where the yarn is.
Which way do you think I should knit the second one?
And thank you a lot for this pattern!
that entirely depends on your preferences. Nothing I can answer for you. i would probably do it the same..but that’s just me.
Thanks for the super detailed pattern Norman! I was able to successfully knit my first sock but my second one is giving me all sorts of trouble, especially on the gusset. I’m trying to follow your advice and start on the third and fourth needles. However, I messed up and put my decreases on the top side of the sock instead of the bottom. I think it would be helpful to have this clarification in case another beginner like me needs to frog their project while working on the gusset.
Help me Norman! I have 35 st on a dpn to begin Heel Turn. My pattern that i found much later! 26st. How do i do it?
I am not sure I understand that question? 35 in your whole round? 35 st separated for the heel?
I am excited to learn to knit a sock with reinforced heels and toes. Thank you for this pattern. Unfortunately, I am just a beginner, and all I’m able to do is the tube part of this sock. Instructions for turning the heel are beyond me. I offer these questions as a beginner. Someone more advanced may be able to understand them.
First, I was confused as there is no mention of putting 16 of the 32 stitches on a yarn or holder. It’s something an advanced knitter wouldn’t need to be told, but a beginner would. Yes, I read that the heel is usually half of the circumference number of stitches, but then the pattern goes into what happens in row 1 and 2 without explaining what happened to the front of the sock.
How to knit the second heel on the other two double pointed needles needs a picture for us beginners. How to even begin?
Instructions say for turning the heel:
1. “Preparation: Knit to the exact center of your heel (in my case 16 stitches) continuing the slipped stitch pattern (*Sl1, k1*)”
Row 1: K1, SSK, k1
The question is, if I’ve already knitted halfway across 32 stitches,
which in the example is 16 in preparation, and now am on “row 1” which says then
“don’t finish the row.” What does that mean? By how many stitches does one not finish
that row? Where to stop? Are you perhaps talking about the other 32 stitches on a
stitch holder? Sorry, I have no idea how to do this.
Row 2: SL1p wyif, p3, p2tog, p1
What is the repeat, when do you turn around? Are there not usually asterisks * * telling what is the repeat?
Suggestion: To make this pattern more beginner friendly, abbreviations such as wyif, and later wyib, should really be in a list of abbreviations of techniques.
“From here, continue like this until you’ve used up all stitches:
RS: SL1p wyib, knit up until 1 stitch before the gap, SSK, k1
WS: SL1p wyif, purl up until 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1
What gap? If you describe or show what this bit is supposed to look like would be good for beginners.
All the best,
Thank you for your ellaborate feedback, Linda.
I would like to remind you that this tutorial and pattern comes with a very detailed video where I show every single step.
As for abbreviations. Every first instance of a given technique is linked to a tutorial. The pdf pattern also has a link to my glossary where all abbreviations are explained.
While I thank you for your contribution, it’s impossible to anticipate the need of every knitter. What you consider to little information others might already think is too much with unnessary clutter and possibly confusing. And I need to find a balance. This free pattern is the result of that. If you need more help beyond that, I’d recommend looking for a dedicated knitting tutor.
Also, from your comment I get the impression that you are thinking there was information missing you need to fill in somehow. that is not the case. The lack of information in a knitting pattern typically means there is nothing to explain.
For instance, there are no different instructions for the second sock because it’s the same.
Or the abovementioned R2 does not have a repeat. That’s literally the full instructions for the row. That’s why there are no asterisks.
Or you seem to think that the preparation is already a row in and by itself. It’s not. It just tells you to knit to that spot and then begin knitting knitting flat.
etc.
So I’d urge you to read the pattern again and kindly watch the video. I’m positive that will fill in all those small gaps.
I am knitting my first pair of socks for myself. My first sock was a good swatching exercise and found the pattern recommended cast on number that would not fit over my ankle-instep area. It was also too small for my leg 5″ inches above my ankle. So back to the drawing board.
I moved up one pattern size for cast on AND used needles 3 sizes larger. I knew this would produce socks that would be much too large in the foot.
I knit 10 rounds of ribbing then switched to one size smaller needles for 5 more rounds of ribbing and 5 rounds of stockinette. Switched to one size smaller needles for 10 rounds then switched to 1 size smaller needles which was the recommended size in the pattern.
I worked the rest of ankle and heel through gusset reduction with recommended needle size and original cast on stitches. I decreased the number of stitches to smaller size pattern number as part of gusset reduction process.
I continued with this configuration until time to begin toe shaping and then reduced needle size by 1.5 sizes and completed sock. This gave a dense fabric at toes.
Results: sock fit quite well through out leg, ankle, foot and toe WITHOUT extra decrease stitches for shaping. The graduated reduction in needle sizes is almost invisible with no counting or stitch markers.
The shaping (tightening) in the leg helps to keep socks from slumping.
I hope this suggestion offers others an alternative to shaping and sizing.
Thank you for sharing your observations. Just for clarification in case someone else reads this: The pattern does NOT recommend a cast-on. It’s just a sample. YOu absolutely need to knit your own swatch.
Bonjour Norman,
Your videos and instructions are the best that I have ever seen.
Easy to follow and understand.
I bought the Knitter’s Pride-Karbonz Double Pointed 6″ Sock Needle Set from Amazon for $59 + 6.02 tax = $65.02 Great buy!
I watch your video on how to knit in the round with those needles, easy …
Then I practiced with different needles and yarns.
So, for my 1st practice sock I chose a Dk yarn, bright yellow ( to clearly see all my stiches and mistakes ), with 3.25mm needles. I did cast the same number of stiches as you did, 68 + 1 = 69 ( I had to watch your video on long tail casting, easy … )
Just following your pattern now, knitting the foot.
I know that this sock will be way too big for me, but for my 1st one, I am more interested in learning all the proper steps and techniques.
So far so good, no problems!
When I am all done with this one, I will take my time to select the proper Sock yarn and matching needles.
I bought some Cascade Yarns, Heritage Prints , 75% Superwash Merino Wool / 25% Nylon
Super Fine Size 1 28 – 32 sts = 4″ (10 cm) C – E (2.75 – 3.50 mm)
It was supposed to big good to knit socks. That yarn is way too fine for me !!!! As a beginner It takes forever to knit 1″ I will try to find some other yarn, 1 size bigger …
I will save that Heritage yarn for later, when I am more experienced. For now I just want to enjoy knitting my 1st sock with all the tips and advice you gave is. When done with this yellow sock, I might just make a Christmas Stocking sock out of it !!!
My name is Danielle, 68 years old , from Washington state, USA. French Canadian, born in Montréal, QC
Dear Norman,
Thank you for your pattern. I have knit the cuff and some of the leg of the sock as recommended, tried it on and found it will be far too large for my leg. I am wondering if you could make a suggestion in where I went wrong with the number of stitches I cast on:
I’m knitting Schachenmayr merino extrafine 170 on 2.5 mm needles. (The recommended needle size is actually 3-3.5 mm for this wool, would this make a difference?). I knitted and blocked the swatch and came to 15 stitches/5 cm. The widest part of my foot (going across the ankle and behind the heel, so at a diagonal if the foot is on the floor–is this correct) is 29 cm. 15/5 = 3, *29 = 87, – 13 (15% of 87) =74, round to 76 st. So I cast on 76 stitches, which honestly I thought might be off, since you were knitting a larger sock with fewer stitches and thinner yarn in your example pattern. But I wanted to trust the process…
In any case, maybe you have an idea where I went wrong? Did I measure the wrong part of the foot? Am I knitting with too thick yarn? I would really appreciate any suggestions you might have.
Hmmm..not really sure. Your numbers are sound but they might or might not match with reality. That being said, now you do have a reliable swatch yo knit a second, better version. That’s what I typically do when I’m off that much.
Hello, Thank you so much for this pattern, I have the pdf and the needles and yarn all ready to go, but I do have one question. For the toe decreases they are graphed out with the dpns, but I planned on knitting this pattern with the magic loop technique. How do you count those out, or should I just use the dpns to make life easier following the pattern? Thanks,
Cadee
You can knit this with the nest of your choice. The pattern stays the same
Hey norm!
I have a problem: i don’t have any double poited needles and i don’t know if i can knit this pattern with circular needles.
Could you help me understand if i can knit it with circular needles?
Btw i’m using yarn for 4.5 mm needles and 3 mm circular needles.
i hope you can help me
Luke 🙂
you can knit ALL socks with either dpns or circulars and the magic loop technique. up to you.
Thx norm!
Buuuuut web have a problem:
See, ALL my interchangeable circular knitting needle cables are broken 🙁
I asked my mum Is She could buy a set from Amazon of Dreamz*
And if you’re asking, yes they’re dpn’s.
Sooo yeah i Need to wait to create my First pair of socks
Have a very good easter & Happy holiday,
Luke 🙂
*oh now i understand why you like the Dreamz: they are very cool designwise and by the reviews i think they’re very good
i actually do not like the dreamz. I am just using them because I do feel they offer a nice contrast on camera. I never knit with them.
Great post! I really like woolen socks, and I always like it when someone makes them by hand because you can see how much effort the person put into making them.
I love your tutorials – they explain things so well! I have a challenge with socks, and I’m trying to identify potential issues ahead of time. I’m knitting for a person who is extremely picky about textures. He says when he’s worn hand knitted socks in the past, he could feel the separate stitches/strands of yarn [presumably worst on the bottom of the foot], and it drove him crazy. Do you know if there are any common mistakes that often lead to this type of feedback?
Thanks!
no. just sensitive people. There’s something called princess soles. You keep the purl side on the ouside for the sole only so the smooth knit side is on the inside.
Hey Norman! When you said in your YouTube video in the knitting the heel part, that when you knit the second sock, you said have to knit with the 3rd and 4th needle instead of the 1st and second. How would you do that, would you have to knit until the 3rd and 4th needle?
exactly. I mean, strickly speaking it really does not matter. But this will move the “seam” to the inside of your calves for the other side as well.
Hello Norman
Thank you for your patten and holding your viewers by the hand in your step by step video.
Utterly new to knitting and after lots of practice at each stage, I have finally just reached the gusset section.
However I have 2 questions if I may?
1) I cast on 80 stitches. My heel stitches were 40 . After turning the heel there were 22 remaining when 1 needle became free (working on 2 dpn).
I decided to knit another 2 rows to reduce to 20 stitches. Is this correct? It meant the last 2 rows just worked the last stitches before the gap and the next stitch. There were no more stitches to follow with a knit or a purl.
I also ended up with the wrong side of my work facing me. The stitch on the top left of my turned heel.
On yours, it looks like you ended up top right with right side facing . I hope that make sense. I do have a photo but do not know how to send.
Anyway, I’m wondering if I am able to continue by picking up my stitches wrong side facing . Then when I reach the beginning of my turn heel stitches, if it will automatically correct itself and be able to commence stockinette stitches?
I am ever so grateful for finding your blog. I think I am regularly cognitively challenged when it comes to instructions llol but super impressed I have made the headway I have, finding yours.
Thank you so very kindly for sharing with the world and little old me 😊
I am not sure I follow. Why would you want to decrease to 20? The point is to turn the heel, not to half the stitch count.
Also, since I really cannot follow why and how you did it, I cannot give you any other advice. My best advice would be to rip out those last two rows where you felt the need to decrease antoher two stitches and then just follow the pattern.
Thanks Norman
For some reason I’d recalled thinking i had read halving stitches and ensuring divisabe by 2 and/or 4.
For this same reason having halved the instep and heel stitches (eg 40 st for each from cast on of 80),
when I finished the turn heel, realising there were 22 st ,
I was left wondering if I had made an error as logically at the time to me, I assumed / wondered if there should only be 20 st
I did not once think of the sense in your opening paragraph reply and subsequently now, realise I did not have to end the heel turn with 20st .
Thank you for your speedy impressive assistance and helping me move forward without much ado 😃
Heh. Well I guess some people care for symmetry or so. But in this case it’s not needed at all. I mean, advanced knitters will find ways to optimize the fit etc…but let’s not get ahead of ourselves here.
Hey Norman.
Thank you so much!!! I love your blog and YouTube channel, and I basically learnt how to knit following along your blog!
Now, around at “advanced beginner” ~ “intermediate” level, I decided to give this sock pattern a go. And again, thanks for the high quality tutorial, followed by a wonderful companion video!!!
So, I do have a question on the instructions for the heel flap though… Here in the blog it says:
RS: *SL1p wyif, k1*
WS: *SL1p wyif, p1*
While in the video, that was what I followed actually, you did instead:
RS: *SL1p wyib, k1* (with yarn in the BACK)
WS: *SL1p wyif, p1*
There is any difference here in the heel flap if doing it in the front vs in the back for the right side?
that was a typo here in the tutorial. fixed it.
I had to comment here because this amused me – I have almost finished the second sock of my first pair and I did the heel for each using the typo version of the instructions, so [RS: *SL1p wyif, k1* – WS: *SL1p wyif, p1*]. (I apologise for not watching the video for this bit!) My heels look fine to me, I still ended up with a thicker fabric over the heel and I’ve turned / picked up / done the gusset as per instructions and no problem.
And correct me if I’m wrong but is what I actually did what’s known as double-knitting / tubular-knitting for the heel part? If I pull the heel from the inside and outside the two layers separate to a hollow tube. How would this compare to if I’d slipped the heel stitches as intended, is it any more or less durable?
Thanks for a great tutorial – I was nervous to attempt socks but everything is explained very clearly.
There is a small typo in the article above. For the slip stitch heel, the instructions say slip 1 with yarn in front for both RS and WS rows.
Thanks for this article and the YouTube video. And all the other videos.
It’s being more than 20 years without knitting, just get back to it this year l, and I’ve following you since.
This is my first socks!
My journey following this tutorial was so smoothly and enjoyable. The way you explain feels like we’re in person! I love it.
I’ll keep learning from you.
Thank you for all the content and love you put in it 🥰
Hi.
Using a picture graph, I’d like to add an image to your pattern. How would you suggest I center the image? I’d like it to appear on the front or side of the leg. Thank you.
Janet
that’s nothing I can tell you. Sounds like it’s just preference, really. And my guess is just as good as yours.
Hi Norman!
I’m super excited to start these socks, but i don’t want the calve length so tall. Is there a way i can make it shorter without disrupting the heel width (measurements you make to find out how many sts to cast on)?
The problem with making it shorter is that the cast-on is ultimately governed by the heel measurement. as your calf is getting wider the further up you go, you will come to a point where these two measurements are identical and this will ensure a good fit.
If you stop earlier, your calf will be too wide and this will result in a bad fit. you can only combat that with using rubber bands and knitting a double cuff where you can hide it in (that’s how most commerical socks do it).
Dear Norman,
thank you so much for sending me this sock pattern. I actually already used it last year and the socks came out great. I couldn’t be added to the newsletter and get the pattern last time for some reason but I am glad it worked now. I’m making another pair now and couldn’t understand my notes based on your pattern. Your detailed pdf makes things a lot easier.
Norman, your blog and videos are brilliant! I’ve learned so much from them. Thank you and have a great knitful new year!
Kim
ok, thanks! I was also wondering if there’s a way to reinforce the pad of your foot area so it doesn’t wear out super fast, since that is the first spot where my socks start getting holes. If not no worries!;)
also do i need to make the swatch 30 cast on sts by 30 rws as well?
Thanks for all you do!
Just knit that pieces you want to reinforce with two strands held toegther. Many use a thin nylon thread or so.
Hi Norman! I decided to pick up knitting again, I learned basic knit and purl when I was 8 but haven’t touched it since (over 20 years ago!) and have been an avid crocheter for a few years now. I do sometimes prefer the look of knitwear so decided to push myself into the deep end and either sink or swim with learning how to knit a sock! Your post was so helpful and I’m nearly finished (currently working on the toe box). I don’t normally comment on patterns, but as someone who works in information science and instruction writing, I felt the need to commend you on your instructions! Super clear, easy to understand and overall super well organised! Thanks for putting in the effort of making it so! My next project is gonna be trying your Mütze pattern, and then I plan on attempting your gloves (the reason I decided to pick up knitting again is to make my gf gloves)! Thanks again! You’ve gained an avid follower with your work!
hi!
Quick question. I’m knitting these socks in one color, and am confused on the gusset decrease part. Do I take off a st marker? Your picture only has one.
I can’t seem to understand what to repeat in order to decrease the gusset. Could you say what sts I need to do for round 1? (I know round 2 is just knit, and then you repeat rnd 1and 2 until you get to your original number of sts).
This is my first ever pair of socks, and kind of don’t know where to go from here lol
Thanks Norman! :))
The other stithc marker is hidden on the underside and not visible in the picture. as for which stitches to decrease, well i mean…the pattern kinda tells you. So I am unsure what else you want me to tell you.
But maybe watch the video that comes along with this video over on my youtube channel if you still have doubts
ok! I’ve already kinda cross referenced with the video but was still unsure.
Sorry, I didn’t explain my problem very clearly; I was wondering since I’m using one color if I needed to repeat the instructions thtlat say “if you are knitting in one color your round starts at the top of the heel. You have to knjt up to 2 sts before your first marker, k2tog, k to the next marker…) Is that round one for me? And then rnd 2 is knit and i repeat both rnds until I get to my original number of sts?
Thanks!:))
Yes, your yarn is basically attached at a slightly different position and you first need to “catch up”. So, it’s just that additonal half round.
Firstly, thank you for your videos, they bring me such joy and calm on top of your valuable knowledge 🙂
I’m a novice knitter and I’ve started my first sock four times – it’s getting better, I’m a whole 3cm in now – and most impressively I got past the maths, hoorah!
Thanks for sharing cool stuff with us. You rock.
Hi Norman
Thank you for the great pattern, I just finished the shaft of the sock and wanted to start on the heel. I’m working with 15 st on each of dpn, so a total of 60. In your instructions it says: <>
That would mean for me it would be thirthy stitches i need to knit across, but that’s not dividable by 4, so it would become 28. What do i do with the two leftover stitches? Do I slip one st to dpn 3 and one st to dpn 4?
Exactly, simply slip them over to the other sides (but remember to slip them back after the gusset).
I just wanted to say thank you for the great work you ALWAYS DO, and for the sock recipe in particular today. I noted an oddity in the pattern and card & wanted to mention it. It says cuff & leg, heel flap & heel turn, then “knit the leg” then shape the toe. It is in the headers, and the instructions of that section. I believe it should say knit the foot after the gusset.
You are absolutely right. I adjusted it!
Hy Norman
Thanks a lot for your helpful tutorial! I am from Switzerland and I d’ont know the abreviations wyif & wyib. What do they mean?
I found them here:
To turn the heel, knit to the exact center of your heel-flap continuing the slipped stitch pattern. And then
Row 1: K1, SSK, K1
Row 2: SL1p wyif, p3, p2tog, p1
Every right side: SL1p wyib, knit up until 1 stitch before the gap, SSK, k1
Every wrong side: SL1p wyif, purl up until 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1
The first instance of every new abbreviation is always linked to a tutorial – just as in this case.
Also, the pattern comes with a full legend and a link to a glossary: https://nimble-needles.com/tutorials/knitting-terms-and-techniques-glossary/
Sorry Norman, I didn’t recognize this.
Wie ich in einem deiner Videos erfahren habe, wohnst du in Deutschland. Stimmt das? Deshalb fahre ich nun auf Deutsch weiter, in der Hoffnung, du verstehst mich…
Englisch ist nicht wirklich meine Sprache. Ich gehöre zum älteren Eisen, welches Englisch nur am Ende seiner Schulkarriere als Freifach hatte. Zwar habe ich auch noch eine Matur, aber da ging es im Englisch mehr um Grammatik und Literatur als um Konversation. Die Stricksprache ist sowieso noch ein anderes Kapitel.
Weil ich unter den englischen Youtube Videos auf deine genialen Videos gestossen bin, habe ich mir zur Gewohnheit gemacht, diese regelmässig zu schauen und das Vokabular step by step zu lernen.
Eigentlich hätte ich wissen müssen, dass ich gerade bei deiner Anleitung sicher eine Erklärung finden werde. Aber eben… durch mein mangelndes Englisch und weil ich das auf dem Handy gemacht habe, wo das Scrollen zwar einfacher der Bildschirm aber viel kleiner ist, habe ich es schlichtweg übersehen. Es tut mir Leid, dass ich dir damit Umstände gemacht habe. V.a. weil ich immer predige “Wer lesen kann, ist im Vorteil” 😉
Trotzdem vielen Dank, dass du so prompt geantwortet und mir geholfen hast. Den Link zu den ABBREVIATIONS kannte ich auch noch nicht und werde ihn in Zukunft sicher häufig nutzen.
Ein riesiges Dankeschön an dieser Stelle für alle deine sehr genauen Tutorials & deine Videos. Sie sind genial. Ohne unnötiges Gelabber, mit vielen hilfreichen Tipps & Tricks und v.a. mit genialen & durchdachten Problemlösungen, die ich bis anhin so nur selten angetroffen habe.
Du probierst die Dinge aus, suchst Lösungen und hörst nicht auf das Stricken zu perfektionieren. Danke, dass du dein Wissen weiter gibst.
Herzliche Grüsse aus der Schweiz
Viviane
mittlerweile wohne ich in Österreich. Aber damals noch in D, ja!
Freut mich, dass ich dir weiterhelfen konnte.
Hello Norman
Thank you for this pattern, I’ve done my swatch and I am one row short will this make much difference as I can add another row. The colour is making it a bit hard to see, off to the wool shop to get more wool to make stripes. Looking forward to making this socks especially as you explain how to carry the floats. Only made a mosaic sock before so these will be my first multi coloured socks.
You mean your row gauge is off? Well, you can easily knit more rows yeah.
I don’t understand the foot measuring instructions.
“Step 4 Measure your feet at their widest point (typically around the ankle/heel)” this is extremely vague. At which point of the foot are we measuring?
“Step 5: Do some easy math:
Divide the number of stitches you counted by the width you measured.” Width is two-dimensional, is this about circumference that needs to be halved?
“Multiply the resulting factor by the circumference of your foot.” Is this a different measurement? Dividing the stitches by the width/circumference, then multiplying by it again just gives me the number of stitches per 5 that I started with. I don’t get it.
1) It’s vague intentionally because it doesn’t matter where your widest point is. The sock is one tube and the full tube needs to fit past that widest point. Not all feet are alike.
2) This is not about halving the circumference. It’s about figuring out how wide one stitch is. Width on your swatch..
ah that clears it up!! Thank you!
okay nvm I figured it out. Thank you!!
Hi Norma,,
I measure my foot around the ankle at 25cm, but not ankle/heel, which is closer to 33cm.
I didn’t question the 25 cm, because in your pattern that I downloaded your measurement was 24 cm. However, I’m concerned now that my sock may not fit over the ankle/heel area based on my cast on, which was based on 25 cm….
Do you think this could work? Or will I need to restart and make it wider with more stitches?
Thanks!!
Well, typically I would say that sounds like something you need to unravel. However, just slide those stitches on a stitch holder and try things on. If you can squeeze your foot through, you might be fine.
But ultimately, you measure ankle/heel because that needs to fit through your cuff.
Hi Norman, thank you for this very detailed tutorial. I have a question! I’m knitting my first sock. I reduced the gusset for three more rows as per your suggestion for what to do if it’s too loose there. That means I started with 64 stitches and ended the gusset with 58. And then I knitted the length of the foot up to where the toe starts. It fits perfectly so far! But now I need to do the toe reductions. Half of 58 is 29 which is an odd number, so my toe will be off center by one stitch. Should I have made sure my gusset reduction resulted in a number divisible by 4? Perhaps the bigger problem is that I don’t see how to make sure my toe decreases align with my gusset decreases, because the top of the foot is still 32 stitches (half of 64) and the bottom side of the foot is 28 stitches. Help!
No, simply only decrease the top portion only. So, you basically skip decreases in the first decrease round until your stitch count is divisible by 4 again and/or you have an even number of stitches top & bottom.
That makes sense. First sock finished! Thank you!
Hello Norman!
I am very thankful for your tutorials! You have helped my overcome many of the problems I have faced in my knitting journey. I am a try-on as I knit type of person so whenever I make socks for someone I always get them to try them on at various stages to see if they fit. I got some yarn to make matching socks for my sister and brother-in-law but they lives on the opposite side of Canada. My sister and I are the same size so her socks weren’t an issue but I don’t know where to begin with her husband’s. I know his shoe size is 11 but I have no idea how to formulate a pattern off of that. Where should I start?
Problem is that shoe size alone tells you nothign about how wide his feet are, how high the instep is, nor the circumference of his calves. As a result…you can just guess. A good middle ground is knitting the whole sock in a stretchy 2×2 rib stitch and knitting a generous heel flap.
Hi Norman, thank you for this nice tutorial. I thought I remembered reading somewhere on your site how to decrease for a left and right side anatomical toe box and would love to try that. But cannot find the instructions anymore. Can you help with that?
you must have read that somewhere else. sorry.
Just found it in the toes up variant. There you mention increasing one sided. Decreased one sided now with a minimal decrease on the other side for a round corner and it worked very well. Thanks again for your good instructions. First pair of socks ever are an instant success. By the way; if I want to try the toes up variant and use the same wool, couldn’t I use the same dimensions of te cuff down socks for the toes and gusset?
Sure. you can definitely work with the same stitch count.
Hi Norman
Wow, what a great sock tutorial. Thank you for all that went into these detailed instructions. I had no problem until it was time to pick up stitches. I picked up 40 on each side (yes – long heel flap!), but this turned in to a great ordeal. I have learned through looking on the web at other tutorials that I should have only picked up 20 sts on each side. I scoured your video and I interpret that you say EVERY slipped stitch, not just the knit rows. Have I missed something?
Can you clarify, please? I really appreciate any help you can give me.
Thank you
I wish I could figure out how to post a photo. You will see exactly what I mean. It’s not even shaped like a sock anymore!
Thank you!
There is no hard rule here but if you knit oyur heel flap for 40 rows, then you’d have to pick up 20 stitches because that creates 20 slip stitch selvage stitches.
If you didn’t do a slip stitch selvage, you can pick up more stitches. This will result in a higher instep and a longer gusset. The decision will largely depend on the anatomy of your foot.
I’m confused.
Here you say, I need a 2,5mm DPN. In the pdf Pattern you say 2,0mm and the carbon once you linked are 3,0mm… I don’t know which to buy now.
Can you help me?
Sadly, etsy links often change and there’s no way to avoid that. 2.5mm will be a good start but that WILL depend a lot on your tension and your yarn. so, in reality you have to knit a swatch anyway and try out mulitple needle sizes until create a fabric you are pleased with.
Thank you Norman! I guess a lot of stuff is also “try out what works best for you” 🙂
Also, thanks so much for all the free knitting tutorials and tips, they’ve been super helpful!
Hi. I wish I could attach a photo. I finished the socks in blue and red stripes for a Spidey fan and they worked. I need to knit more socks to get better at it but they are lovely. I learned a lot. I didn’t understand to continue the knit slip stitch all the way to the bottom of the heel for example.
I need to work on adapting patterns to my Grandma style knitting.
My husband is quite tall with a big instep. I had to cast on 88 stitches. If I follow the instructions, my toe would half to 44, then 22 sts. That’s too many to end the toe with, right? What would be your suggestion here? Thank you in advance!
well, the high instep just governs the stitch count for the heel and gusset itself. This part needs to be roomy enough. If you are worried about the fit and the foot itself is rather slender going onwards, then simply decrease the gusset 2, 3 or 4 more times. That way you might end up with 82 or just 80 stitches for the foot and then the toes.
Other than that, I personally would stick to the pattern. It works well – no matter your stitch count. you don’t wan’t to change the length of the toes but the width. Decreasing quicker will only change the length.
I’ve knitted my first pair of socks using this recipe (with some simple modifications). I’d like to make a pair with princess soles, but I’m unsure on whether I need to do anything more than reverse stockinette on the bottom. I couldn’t find any guides from you when I searched, do you have any?
No, nothing else. Place two stitch markers and then just purl in between. No other changes required. I mean, if you want to knit the heel in reverse stockinette stitch as well, you’d have to purl that as well.
In this case, you’d have to exchange k2tog with p2tog and SSK with SSP.
Dear Norman,
I have made several pairs of socks for my son following your awesome tutorial. Thank you for that! He would now like me to make the leg section 5 cm longer on the socks I have already knit. Could you give me some advice for that? Since I started the socks at the leg, the stitches will then be upside down and what should I do about the casting on row? Any ideas?
Well, if you cut off the cuff, and then unravel one row of stockinette stitch, you can then proceed to pick up the stitches as you unravel to knit in the other direction (you cannot unravel ribbing in the other direction).
Careful tho: a lot of male legs get quite a bit wider the further up you go. So, you might have to include a couple of increases to accomodate that (measure!)