A step-by-step tutorial showing you how to finish a toe-up sock knitting pattern with success
So, you’ve heard about the benefits of knitting socks toe-up, eh? No Kitchener stitch, no picking up stitches like when you knit socks the traditional way! Sounds great, doesn’t it? But now you are wondering how it works. Well, then you came to the right place because this comprehensive tutorial will show you everything you need to know to finish your first toe-up sock pattern!
Do you want/need this pattern as a tech-edited pdf with 12 pages full of detailed written instructions and high-resolution pictures? Then subscribe to my Patreon account and get it for free.
Or buy it on Etsy. Get it on Ravelry.
Materials you need for this toe-up sock knitting pattern
Note: I earn a small commission for purchases made through links in this article.
This pattern will work for any yarn between fingering weight and DK weight yarn. The heavier your quality, the faster you will be able to finish. At the same time, your socks will also be warmer and thicker (which can be a pro or a con). On the negative side, you will have fewer stitches to work in a colorful motif or a detailed (lace) stitch pattern. Pick something that specifically says sock yarn (typically a blend with 20-30% nylon)
- 100 grams of sock yarn will be enough for anything below US shoe size 10 (42 EU). I used the Schachenmayr Regia 6-ply for this tutorial.
- Circular or double-pointed needles to match your weight. For fingering weight yarn most people use 2-2.5 mm, and for the lighter DK qualities, 3 to 3.5 mm.
- A tapestry needle and scissors
- Measuring tape
- (optional) Stitch markers
Note: You can use dpns or circulars. There is no structural difference. Pick what suits you better and gives YOU better results.
Step 1: Calculating your size
Before you can start knitting, you need to knit a little swatch. This will enable you to determine the gauge and ultimately help you calculate your size. There are sock charts but you would have to knit at least a swatch as well to confirm you meet the gauge. So that’s typically the more complicated way.
A lot of beginners shy away from this step or skip it. Don’t! Let me put it that way: No two knitters produce the exact same fabric. Some knit looser others tighter. So, how can you ever expect perfect results if someone tells you to cast on 40 stitches? Knitting doesn’t work that way. Never has, never will.
A) Knit a swatch
- Cast on 24-30 st
- Knit across 20-30 rows in stockinette stitch
- bind off loosely
B) Block your swatch
Next, you need to wash and block your swatch using pins and a blocking mat (or a towel on your carpet). Stretch your swatch until the fabric looks nice. Avoid overstretching.
Important: If you plan to throw your finished socks into the washing machine, do the same with your swatch. Some people will carry the finished swatch in their pocket for a day or two to simulate wear and tear. Often, socks wear out quite a bit after the first couple of wears and will end up being too big.
C) Measure your stitch gauge
Next, take a tape or a ruler and measure out 10 stitches somewhere in the center of your swatch while it is still on the blocking board and check how many centimeters (or inches) you need to cover those 10 stitches. Measure in at least two different spots to ensure you didn’t stretch your swatch in an uneven way.
Then write down that number: E.g. 10 st = 4.5 centimeters
D) Measure your foot at the widest point
Then, pick up your tape and measure your foot somewhere in the center to find the widest point. Don’t measure too close to your toes or too far toward the ankle.
Write down that number as well: E.g. My foot has a circumference of 23 centimeters
E) Calculate your toe-box size
In the last step, you need to calculate the final circumference of your toe box. And this is super simple.
- Divide the length that you measured on your swatch by those 10 st. The result will be the length of one stitch.
E.g. 4.5 cm ÷ 10 st = 0.45 cm/st - Divide the circumference of your foot by the length of your stitch. The result will be the number of stitches you need to have at the end of your toe box.
E.g. 23 cm ÷ 0.45 cm/st = 51.1 st - Round to the next number divisible by 4.
E.g. 52 st
Writing it all out makes it sounds complicated but it really isn’t. It’s just knitting a swatch, taking two simple measurements, and entering 3 numbers into your calculator.
Step 2: Knitting the toe-box
Once you’ve calculated your toe box, you can start casting on. While you can also use the Turkish cast-on or the Italian Cast-on, most people prefer the Magic Cast-on these days. But pick whatever you feel looks best for you.
- Cast on 16 stitches using the Magic cast-on
Note: For very small sizes or very bulky yarn you only need to only cast on 12 stitches. For very fine yarn and large sizes perhaps 20 stitches. In this case, you will knit across that many/fewer stitches in the middle. - Round 1: knit across
- Round 2: [k1, KFB, k4, SKL, k1] 2 x times (20 stitches)
- Round 3: [k1, KFB, k6, SKL, k1] 2 x times (24 stitches)
Continue increasing in every round in that manner until you’ve doubled your stitch count. Round 5 should look like this for a cast-on of 16 stitches: - Round 5: [k1, KFB, k10, SKL, k1] 2 x times (32 stitches)
- Round 6: knit across
- Round 7: [k1, KFB, k12, SKL, k1] 2 x times (36 stitches)
From here, continue increasing in every second round until you can accommodate all the stitches you calculated for your foot (e.g. 52 stitches). Round 15 should look like this: - Round 15: [k1, KFB, k20, SKL, k1] 2 x times (52 stitches)
For a less rounded toe box, you can also increase in every second round from the start. Or you only increase in every round on one side. This will create a visibly left- or right-slanting toe-box that you may find a little bit ergonomic.
You may also pick a different set of increases (here’s a list) if you don’t like the look of KFB & SKL or you think they are a bit too difficult to knit for you. But no matter what you do and how you increase, you always need to end up with the number of stitches that you’ve calculated before (E.g. 52 stitches)
Step 3: Foot
From here, you can continue knitting the foot in plain stockinette stitch. If you plan to change colors, consider knitting across 2 more rows in the old color for a neater transition. This tutorial will show you how to knit jogless stripes in the round.
Round 16-36: Knit across (52 stitches)
After you’ve knitted another 5 centimeters (roughly), it’s time to calculate the size of your gusset and when you need to start knitting the heel. This process is just as simple as the first calculation but involves a couple of more steps as you need to calculate two things – the size of your heel and where to start.
Reading tip: Don’t want to add a gusset? Then knit an afterthought heel instead.
A) Draw the outline of your foot.
Place it on a piece of paper and use a pencil. Avoid leaning the pencil inward – you need the maximum circumference.
B) Measure your heel
Then, measure the length from the bottom of your ankle knuckle to the beginning of the sole (or the height of your instep). That’s how long your heel flap needs to be
E.g. 5 cm
C) Count out your gusset
Next, try your work in progress on (if you are using dpns, slip your stitches to a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn). Check if they fit the way you want them to fit. If they don’t try to figure out how many more (or fewer) stitches you need to increase for the toe box and unravel to the end of your toe box or however many rows before.
Please note that knitting behaves differently towards the edge. So the last 5 rows you’ve knitted will always appear to be a bit too loose.
While still wearing your sock, measure out the length of your heel from before (e.g. 5 cm) and check how many stitches in a row you need to cover that length (here’s how to count stitches in knitting).
E.g. 12 stitches
That’s how many stitches you need to increase on either side of your work for the gusset to achieve a heel (flap) that is roomy enough to accommodate your heel and instep. (Read/Knit through the pattern once and this will make sense. For now, just believe me).
D) Calculate the beginning of your gusset.
You will increase the gusset in every second row. Multiply the gusset stitches times 2. That’s
how many rows you need to knit the gusset.
E.g. 12 st * 2 = 24 rows.
You also need to work out the length of your heel. For that you need to know that you will work it across half of your stitches minus 2.
E.g. 52 st ÷ 2 = 26 st – 2 st = 24 st
You will turn your heel until there are only a third of the stitches left (see below).
E.g. 24 st * 0.666 = 16 rows
That’s how many ROWS you will work to turn the heel.
E) Measure your sock
In the almost last step, you need to pick up your tape again and measure out the two numbers you’ve calculated in the first step. You know you need to knit your gusset for 24 rows, and your heel turn will take 16 rows.
So, put on your socks one more time and check how many rows you need to cover those two numbers. Then add those two. E.g.:
- 24 rows = 6.3 cm/2.5 in
- 16 rows = 4.2 cm/1.6 in
- -> together 10.5 cm/4.1 in
F) Adjust your drawing
Now, bring out the drawing of your foot again. Starting from the back of your heel, measure the length that you calculated for your gusset and heel, and add a little marking. Now you only need to place your work in progress on the drawing and continue until you hit the spot.
E.g. my foot is 24.5 cm/9.6 in long. I stop knitting once I’ve knitted a total of 14.0 cm/5.5 in including the toe-box.
If you plan to knit a German Short Row heel or any other heel, the process is even easier. You don’t need to work out the gusset. Your pattern will typically tell you how many rows the heel takes, and you simply need to measure those on your socks and adjust your drawing.
E.g. Your GSR heel is worked across half of your stitches until there is only 1 third left = 52÷2 = 26; 26*0,666 = ~ 17.3 rows
Step 4: GUsset
Before you start knitting the gusset, slip two stitches from the beginning and the end of the second side to the first side. Use two stitch markers to divide your original stitches from the two slipped stitches on either side.
E.g. I will have one side with 22 stitches and one with 30 stitches (2 st, stitch marker, 26 st, stitch marker, 2 st)
Gusset round 1: k2, slip marker, k1, KLL, knit across (24 st), KRL, k1, sm, k2, knit across the
rest of your stitches (54 stitches)
Note: You can pick any other set of left- and right-leaning increases as well. I just feel these look the neatest.
Round 2: knit across
Round 3: k2, sm, k1, KLL, knit across (26 st) KRL, k1, sm, knit (56 stitches)
Round 4: knit across
Round 5: k2, sm, k1, KLL, knit across (28 st), KRL, k1, sm, knit (58 stitches)
Continue increasing in that manner in every second round until you’ve reached your gusset
calculations. E.g. 76 st. For me, round 23 would look like this:
Round 23: k2, sm, k1, KLL, k46, KRL, k1, sm, k24 (76 stitches)
Note: If you are knitting stripes, do consider knitting the gusset of the second sock across the
second side. That way, you can hide the jogs on the inside of your calves when you wear them.
Step 5: Turning the heel
From here, you will continue with short rows. The heel and the heel flap are knit flat.
Start by placing two additional stitch markers on your first needle for your gusset stitches. I increased by 12 stitches on either side. So my needle will look like this 54 st (2 st, sm, 12 st, sm, 26 st, sm, 12 st, sm, 2st)
- Heel turn row 1: Knit across until you are one stitch before your third stitch marker. <turn around>
Note: I typically knit my heel across half of my stitches minus 2 for neater results. For the very small sizes and/or bulky yarn, you might want to stop right before the stitch marker. - Row 2: Make double stitch, purl across until you are one stitch before the next marker on the other end. <turn around>
- Row 3: mds, knit across until you reach the double stitch you created before. <turn around>
Note: You never knit across the double stitches. Thus, each row you knit will be one stitch shorter. - Row 4: mds, purl across until you reach the double stitch. <turn around>
Repeat rows 3+4 until only a bit less than a third of your original stitches are left.
E.g. 26 st – 2 st = 24 st; 24 st ÷ 3 = 8 st
I stop after a purl row. My final RS row will look like this: - Row 17: mds, knit across until you reach the double stitch and DON’T turn around anymore
Step 6: Heel Flap & Calf
From here, you will knit the heel flap by joining the gusset stitches with the heel. For now, you will continue working flat.
- Heel flap row 1: Continue your row by knitting all double stitches together until you are one stitch before the gusset stitch marker, SSK (remove the marker as you knit it). <turn around> (75 stitches)
- Row 2: Sl1p wyif, place a marker, purl across, then purl all double stitches together until you are one stitch before the gusset stitch marker on the other side, p2tog (remove marker as you knit it). <turn around> (74 stitches)
- Row 3: Sl1p wyib, place marker, knit across, sm, SSK. <turn around> (73 stitches)
- Row 4: Sl1p wyif, sm, purl across, sm, p2tog. <turn around>(72 stitches)
Continue decreasing in the manner of rows 3+4 until there are two stitches left between markers 1 and 2 and 3 and 4. E.g. when there are 54 stitches left.
From here, you will continue knitting in the round and decrease the last two stitches as you go. I personally feel this creates a neater transition and avoids holes.
- Round 23: Sl1p wyib, sm, knit across, sm, SSK, sm, k2, knit across the second side until the next marker, sm, k2tog, sm. (52 stitches)
Note: The last k2tog will be worked across the stitch you’ve slipped at the beginning of the round. You may remove your stitch markers. - Round 24: Knit across
From here, you can continue in pattern until you’ve reached the desired length. However, I want you to stop after you’ve knitted around 5 cm/2 in and try your sock on again.
So far, the size of your sock has been determined by the circumference of your foot. The
leg part will have that very same circumference. You need to be able to squeeze the latter past
your ankle. If you have a very pronounced ankle/instep you might not be able to squeeze your foot through.
If that is the case, increase in every round for the last 2/4/6 gusset rounds, and stop the heel
flap decrease rows 2/4/6 rows earlier.
As a quick remedy, you could unravel until the start of your heel flap and undo the last 2/4/6
heel flap rows, and start your leg with e.g. 54/56/58 st
Step 7: The Cuff
A good-fitting cuff follows a rather precise calculation. While you could certainly stop knitting
earlier and insert a rubber band, I recommend starting your cuff like this:
- You already know the ideal fit of the tube you are knitting. You’ve knitted it in a way that
it hugs the middle of your foot quite perfectly. And you already know that circumference since you’ve measured it before (e.g. 23 cm). - Take up your measuring tape and check where your calf has the exact same circumference.
- Stop knitting the leg once your work in progress reaches that very same point but continue for around 1 to 2 cm/0.4 – 0.8 for a better grip.
A typical cuff is knit in ribbing. Pick a repeat that looks good for your yarn/yarn weight.
I.e. if you use chunky yarn, and you only have 30 stitches per round, a 2×2 rib will probably
not look as charming. If you are knitting with fingering weight yarn, and you have 80 stitches
per round, a 1×1 rib might get lost.
Note: if you want to knit your cuff in a different color, consider knitting across one row with the
new ball to achieve a neater transition.
- Cuff round 1: *k2, p2*
- Round 2: *k2, p2*
- Continue your ribbing for altogether 5 cm/2in.
Then bind-off loosely. The Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-off and the 2×2 Bind-off are both great choices. Consider using a needle one or two sizes larger for even more give. Or any other stretchy bind-off of your choice.
Consider grafting one stitch using the tail to avoid a visible stair between the last and first bind-off stitch.
How to knit socks toe-up
This is a quick and simple recipe for toe-up socks using my size (41.5 EU/US size 9) as a reference. Adjust the increases/decreases as needed and described according to your size and preferences.
Materials
Tools
- Circular or double-pointed knitting needles. I am using 3mm needles
Instructions
Cast on 16 stitches using the Magic cast-on.
Round 1: knit across
Round 2: [k1, KFB, k4, SKL, k1] 2 x times (20 stitches)
Round 3: [k1, KFB, k6, SKL, k1] 2 x times (24 stitches)
Round 4: [k1, KFB, k8, SKL, k1] 2 x times (28 stitches)
Round 5: [k1, KFB, k10, SKL, k1] 2 x times (32 stitches)
Round 6: knit across
Round 7: [k1, KFB, k12, SKL, k1] 2 x times (36 stitches)
From here, continue increasing in every second row until you can accommodate all the stitches you calculated for your foot (e.g. 52 stitches). Round 15 should look like this:
Round 15: [k1, KFB, k20, SKL, k1] 2 x times (52 stitches)
Round 16-55: knit across
Shuffle two stitches each from the beginning and end of the second size (needle 2 or needles 3+4) to the other side and place stitch markers.
Round 56: k2, slip marker, k1, KLL, knit across (24 st), KRL, k1, sm, k2, knit across the rest of your stitches (54 stitches)
Round 57: knit across
Round 58: k2, sm, k1, KLL, knit across, (26 st) KRL, k1, sm, knit (56 stitches)
Round 59: knit across
Round 60: k2, sm, k1, KLL, knit across (28 st), KRL, k1, sm, knit (58 stitches)
Continue increasing in that manner in every second round until you've reached your gusset
calculations. E.g. 76 st.
Round 78: k2, sm, k1, KLL, knit across (46 st), KRL, k1, sm, k24 (76 stitches)
Place two additional stitch markers after and before the (12) increased gusset stitches.
Row 79: Knit across until you are one stitch before your third stitch marker. [turn around]
Row 80: Make double stitch, purl across until you are one stitch before the next marker on the other end.
Row 81: mds, knit across until you reach the double stitch you created before. [turn around]
Note: You never knit across the double stitches. Thus, each row you knit will be one stitch shorter.
Row 82: mds, purl across until you reach the double stitch. [turn around]
Repeat rows 3+4 until only a bit less than a third of your original stitches are left. My final RS row will look like this:
Row 94: mds, knit across 8 st until you reach the double stitch and DON'T turn around anymore
Row 95: Continue your row by knitting all double stitches together until you are one stitch before the gusset stitch marker, SSK (remove the marker as you knit it). [turn around] (75 stitches)
Row 96: Sl1pwyif, place a marker, purl across, then purl all double stitches together until you are one stitch before the gusset stitch marker on the other side, p2tog (remove marker as you knit it). [turn around] (74 stitches)
Row 97: Sl1pwib, place marker, knit across, sm, SSK. [turn around] (73 stitches)
Row 98: Sl1pwif, sm, purl across, sm, p2tog. [turn around] (72 stitches)
Continue decreasing in the manner of rows 3+4 until there are two stitches left between markers 1 and 2 and 3 and 4. E.g. when there are 54 stitches left, then continue in the round:
Round 116: Sl1pwib, sm, knit across, sm, SSK, sm, k2, knit across the second side until the next marker, sm, k2tog, sm. (52 stitches)
Round 117-180: knit across
Round 181-198: *k2, p2*
Bind off loosely.
Anyways, that’s how to knit socks toe-up. Comment below if you have any questions
Hi!
How did you handle the jog here when changing the color? And did you cut the yarn after each change or take it up on the inside? I want to try out this tutorial because when knitting top down it never looks neat where the stitches for the gusset are picked up.
Thank you!
Stef
They way to knit jogless stripes is linked in the pattern (or just use the search function here or on my youtube channel).
As for carrying the yarn. I cut it and rejoin it if there are more than 5 rows in between, below, I just drag it along. If you create floats, that too will be visible.
Hello Norman,
First I want to say Thank You. You are probably one of the hardest-working YouTubers on the platform. I appreciate the dedication and detailed videos with instructions you put out not only on YouTube but on your blog as well. I’ve just started my knitting journey and hope someday I will be as good as you are.
I bought your sock pattern and I’m getting ready to start the heel but I have some questions. I understand you put out on your community page the question on what heel everyone wanted to see you demonstrate for this sock tutorial(sorry, but somehow I missed that). Why was this heel chosen? What makes it different than other heels? Is it because it works better for people with high instep? Is a gusset and heel flap more durable than let’s say a German short-row heel? Does this gusset and heel flap have a name other than gusset and heel flap?
Again thank you for being there for people like me starting this journey. I look forward to your answers.
It is indeed more versatile, as you can indeed adjust the size of the gusset/heel flap according to the height of the instep. This is not possible if you knit a standard GSR heel. Besides, it looks tidier if you ask me.
As to why most people wanted to see it. Probably because a GSR is so easy and they wanted to learn something new they didn’t know how to do yet.
Thank you for taking the time to answer my question. Have a wonderful holiday.
Hi Norman,
I just wanted to ask if it’s intentional that there’s no negative ease involved in the stitch calculation for the foot width.
Keep up the great work! I love that you got everything written out on your blog as well in addition to making excellent videos. I prefer reading up on things so I really apreciate it 🙂
Thank you
Yes, that is quite intentional..or rather…you factor it in through stretching it on the blocking mat.
Hello, thank you for your tutorial! I found a socks free pattern in WAK.
Hi Norman,
2 questions
1. When calculating cast on stitches, why do you round to the next number divisible by 4? What is the significance of 4?
2. When working out length of heel you said to minus 2 stitches from half of total stitches. Why minus 2 stitches? Again significance of 2?
Thank you for taking the time to explain this. I am interested in doing more than just following a pattern but knowing the how to and why. You go much farther than most and appreciate your in depth explanations.
Well, you will finish these socks in a 2×2 rib so only multiples of 4 will work out. And it’s also a requirement for the heel.
Why minus 2, well, i personally feel you get better results if you keep a little margin. But it is, strictly speaking, no requirement.
I am confused. I am ready for the gusset. Am I doing the increases on the top of the sock or the sole of the sock? I switched from dpns to a 9 inch circular but will go back to dpns for the heel and gusset. I have 64 stitches. My calculations seem to indicate a need to increase 19 stitches to each side. Does that sound possible? Thanks Norman.
well, you do them on the edge of the sole stitches. But you can always flip things over later on..so it kind of doesn’t matter – except you have a pattern going on on top.
I think there is a mistake under step 2, toe box.
“For a less rounded toe box, you can also increase in every second round from the start.”
An increse every second round should give a more rounded look, not less. As the increase won’t be as step as it is done every second round.
No, there is no mistake there. If you increase in every second round, the sphere will be elongated. Do remember, this is 3-dimensional and not 2.
Hi Norman, this is the best tutorial I have ever seen. I have been knitting toe up socks for years. I had to do a lot of experimenting and teach myself, since it was hard to find good instructions. This will improve my toe up socks. I like the toe up socks so I can change my mind on whether I want ankle socks, crew, or higher or lower, (for summer socks), which are sometimes dictated by the amount of yarn I have. I’ll be coming back to your site often and recommend it to others. Now I hope to find a tutorial on knitting socks with elastic yarn. Comgrats on a job well done.
Lovely tutorial, I also bought me the pattern, so I can print and make notes of my numbers alongside the instructions. I did use the YouTube video for the most, referencing back to the page in between.
I had never knitted socks before, and quite frankly not a lot other things either despite learning to knit as a kid, but I found it easy to follow along still. Your video is very clear and you explain well.
I’ve got the second sock to go still, or rather it will be third, I messed up measurements on the first so it ended up a tad too big, but learning from that I adjusted my stitch count and the second fits nicely.
Hi. I always do cuff down socks, found your amazing tutorial here for the toe up that U have been wanting to learn. The cast on tutorial was great. But now working on toe increases I have already messed up I think.
After round 3 of the toe I have 24 stitches a side. After round 4 I have 28 stitches a side since KFB adds two and SKL adds two. But it says in your pattern after round 4 I should have 26 a side. Did I do something wrong? I thought I was following exactly. Each increase round is supposed to add 4 stitches a side correct? Thank you!
oh wow. that’s a typo! Thank you for catching it. FUnny how nobody ever mentioned this. However, if you take a closer look, you’r supposed to have 32 stitches.
So yeah, you did everything correct!
(fixing it now)
Following your pattern, I am confused about the 2 st that get slipped from the sole needle to the instep needle (using circular needles). If I understood the directions, those slipped st are now on the instep needle with the gusset stitches betw them and the instep. Am confused about working the heel as to what to do with these 2 st which are now betw the gusset stitches and the sole. When do they get incorporated into the sock? Or did I misunderstand and get it backwards?
they don’t get incorporated. that’s the whole point. they prevent the gap from wearing out too much.
Hi Norm In step E when you calculate the toe box, your divisor and dividend are upside down You should be dividing the circumference by the stitch length, not the other way round.
You are right. I calculated it correctly, i wrote it correctly but the actual example as upside down. thx for that.
my pleasure…Math teacher. I am knitting my first pair of sock, from your recipe and thank you for the detail and clarity with gorgeous photos every step of the way.
In the almost last step, you need to pick up your tape again and measure out the two numbers you’ve calculated in the first step. You know you need to knit your gusset for 24 rows, and your heel turn will take 16 rows.
So, put on your socks one more time and check how many rows you need to cover those two numbers. Then add those two. E.g.:
24 rows = 6.3 cm/2.5 in
17 rows = 4.2 cm/1.6 in
So my question is: where did the 17 come from? And where do we use the 16? Did it grow by 1 in the calculations? and if so why?
That’s a typo. It IS 16. The actual test-knitted and tech-edited pdf pattern has it right.
Hi Norm
At the turning of the heel section, your instruction reads:
“Start by placing two additional stitch markers on your first needle for your gusset stitches. I increased by 12 stitches on either side. So my needle will look like this 54 st (2 st, sm, 12 st, sm, 26 st, sm, 12 st, sm, 2st)”
When I add up the above I get 54 stitches as you indicate. If I then add the 12 x 2 for the stitches at the side I get 78, but I think you only had 76, so now I am confused. Please clarify.
I am a bit puzzled why you would want to add the 2×12 stitches on the side. Those are already included in that stitch count?
Do you happen to have a video tutorial for this showing how to use the straight DPNs? I’m not sure where in the toe to incorporate the additional needles and how to do so without twisting them.
I am sorry, I don’t.
Hi Norman,
Thanks for your fabulous tutorial! It really helps me understand construction of socks and how you can tweak things for a perfect fit… I love that it creates an individualised pattern that can be used in future with other yarns and gauges! I did get a bit confused at times but the blog and video versions really helped me nut things out if I couldn’t figure it from the pdf. Now I just need to figure out how to secretly measure my family’s feet so I can make them surprise socks for Xmas!😜
Wow I am in awe of the specificity of this pattern! I’m so excited to have found it. Question though please, regarding your gusset directions:
Round 5: k2, sm, k1, KLL, knit across (28 st), KRL, k1, sm, knit (58 stitches)
Continue increasing in that manner in every second round until you’ve reached your gusset
calculations. E.g. 76 st. For me, round 23 would look like this:
Round 23: k2, sm, k1, KLL, k46, KRL, k1, sm, k24 (76 stitches)
But what I’m confused about is which calculation your example of 76 stitches comes from? That’s not a number you came up with in any of your previous math, so I’m not sure what it refers to. could you explain how you got to 76? I know it’s only an example given your personal measurements but I don’t understand where it came from.
Dankeschön!!
I am quite unsure of this comment. 52 +12 +12 is 76. It’s following my precise calculations. You probably missed that you increase by 12 on either side.
Yes thank you Norman this is exactly the math I somehow hadn’t understood, it makes sense now–thank you for responding so quickly, I really appreciate your help!
Hi! I found your blog several days ago when searching for knitting theory. I have been following patterns for years and wanted to learn how to construct garments. Thank you for your efforts in this blog. I’m very impressed that you have accomplished so much in just a few years.
I have a question about the afterthought heel. I am unsure how to measure it with this sock. The instructions say that the calculations are the same either toe up or cuff down because it is symmetrical. But how do I take the measurements from the bottom?
In the exact same way it is described here. Only that you have to “calculate” how many rows your afterthought heel will be high and then you take that and apply it to the outline of your foot.
Hi Norman,
I am a long time crocheter and recently started to teach myself knitting (well, actually you are teaching me!). Thank you for all the great instructions.
I have 1 question: when starting the gusset, 4 stitches are transferred to the 1st needle from the second. Are they transferred back after the heel or left there for the remainder of the sock?
yes, you slip them back. you just slip them to avoid having the decreases later on right around the gap. this typically looks sloppy.
Hi I have the PDF pattern and the hyperlink to “made double stitch” isn’t working. I can’t find a stitch of that name on your blog and I’m confused. I usually knit socks top down using the heel flap method which doesn’t require that stitch.
Interesting. I just checked. For me, the link is working perfectly fine.
Make double stitch is the abbreviation/placeholder for any short row turn. When in doubt, you can also look abbreviations up in my glossary (which is linked in the pattern)
The “make double stitch” also didn’t work from the glossary on my PDF, but I’ve just followed the link from this page and that one worked – maybe it’s only an issue on the PDF?
I’ve never done short rows before so I shall have to try and teach myself before I continue on with your sock pattern.
I don’t know what else I can say other than – testing it on my computer it works very well. But if you tell me which devide you are using & which programm to open it, it might give me a lead.
Hello! For turning the heel, my calculations have me going down to 7 stitches. Since that would have me starting the heel flap instructions on a purl row rather than a knit row, is there anything I need to do differently than you have written for heel flap rows 1 and 2?
Thank you!
that would be a bit unusual. I’d either pick 7 or 8 stitches.
Great pattern, thanks Norman! I have completed 4 pairs of socks, all using variegated yarn, starting #5. This is my first time knitting socks to wear, previously only made Christmas stockings.
I learned several new stitches and tips from this pattern and the YouTube video, replayed many times!
One tip I might offer, which helps me combine your tips on avoiding ladders while knitting magic loop and tightening up the first purl in a 2×2 ribbing: shift two stitches to the other needle so that your first two stitches on magic loop are always K, not P. That way it’s easy to apply both of your tips.
I also added a contrasting color for the heel turning and flap in order to preserve the color fade changes on the sock. (Schooled woolle zauberball)
I timed my last sock knitting and it took 9-1/2 hours!
Hello Norman. For pair #5 using your pattern I want to knit a fold down cuff, like the vintage “bobby socks” of the 1950’s, or Buster Brown type if you’re too young to remember those. Would it work to just add a purl row at the desired top length to pre-determine a fold-over point, and then knit a 1×1 ribbing for the length of the cuff to fold down?
Again, thank you for the many tutorials which have taught me so much!
Yes, that would work. I would knit ribbing on the “inside” but possibly stockinette stitch on the outside with some increases and a very loose, flaring bind-off (at least if you want the ruffles effect)