How to seam the brioche stitch

A step-by-step tutorial on seaming brioche knitting in a super invisible way

At its core, brioche knitting is fairly simple. A scarf is easy to finish. The challenge arises when you proceed to more advanced patterns – especially things like sweaters or cardigans. Then, you are suddenly faced with sewing. This tutorial shows you a simple and very versatile way to seam the brioche stitch that works well for a wide range of projects and use cases.

This method is nothing but a variation of the mattress stitch and requires a garter stitch selvage. The big advantage is that the resulting seam lays flat on the wrong side. This makes it ideal for fitted garments where you do not want to add unnecessary bulk.

Let’s dive right into it!

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Instructions: How to seam brioche knitting

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This seaming technique requires a spare length of yarn around twice as long as the seam and a garter stitch selvage. Thus, you need to plan ahead and knit the first and last stitch of every row. E.g.:

CO an odd number + 2 st
R1 (WS): k1, *SL1yo, k1*, SL1yo, k1
R2 (RS): k1, *k2tog, SL1yo*, k2tog, k1
R3: k1, *SL1yo, k2tog*, SL1yo, k1
Repeat rows 2+3

Note: I am using a yellow contrasting yarn for demonstration purposes only so you can see things better.

Active Time 5 minutes

Total Time 5 minutes

Materials

• Any yarn works. I am using the Schachenmayr Catania Grande in this tutorial

Tools

• A blunt tapestry needle

Instructions

1. Pull the yarn through the first cast-on stitch on the left side. Go right through it and leave a tail that is long enough for weaving in later on.
   
   Note: If your cast-on tail is long enough, you may also use that. In this case, skip going through whatever side it is attached to.
2. Go through the last cast-on stitch on the right side and pull the yarn all the way through.
   
3. Move back to the left side and find the first little purl bump right above the cast-on edge. Pull the yarn through.
   
4. Move over to the right side and find the first purl bump above the cast-on edge. Pull the yarn through.
   
5. Go back to the left side and find the next purl bump directly above the one you just went through.
   
6. Again, move over to the right side and find the purl bump above the one you just went through and pull your tapestry needle through.
   
7. Repeat steps 5-6 until you've covered around 1-2 inches.
   
8. Pull on the yarn (making sure to secure the tail) to tighten the seam. Make sure that you do not pull too tightly. You do not want the seam to pucker in any way.
   
9. Continue in this manner until you get to the bind-off edge. I find it easier if I pinch the two sides between my fingers. Go through the first and last bind-off edge stitch, and then weave in the tail the normal way.
   

Notes

Here's a close-up image of the stitches you need to go through with your tapestry needle on either side. Depending on your gauge and yarn, these bumps might be slightly distorted or not as prominent.

It’s important to note that this method only works for vertical seams. I also want to highlight that there are other ways to seam brioche knitting. However, I prefer this method because it’s so simple and straightforward to knit.

Often, you knit brioche patterns with rather fuzzy yarn. Then, it’s often very hard to really identify the stitches you need to pull the tapestry needle through. Some advanced grafting methods for the brioche stitch seem reasonably easy on paper, but once you have to use it with, for example, mohair yarn, you will quickly notice that it’s extremely difficult. The garter stitch selvage eliminates these problems in my opinion.

That’s how I sew brioche knitting together. Comment below if you still have any questions