A step-by-step tutorial on how to knit magic loop using a single circular needle
Do you want to start a tubular project? You tried knitting in the round on double-pointed needles but the technique was beyond you? Well, then you came to the right place because this tutorial is all about the super simple magic loop knitting method.
First of all, what does magic loop mean? At its core, it’s an ingenious technique first mentioned by Sarah Hauschka in a book of the same name in 2002 that allows you to knit small-diameter projects with regular circular needles. When you want to knit socks or similar patterns, the circumference of these projects is typically smaller than the the length of needle tips themselves. And this prevents you from knitting in a continuous round.
The trick behind knitting magic loop is simple. You separate your project into two parts. And one part is always on the flexible cable. If the cable is long enough, you can use the needle on the other end of the cable to knit stitches freely. And since the method is just so smart, it almost feels a bit like magic.
Let’s show you how to knit it.
Note: Neither knitting in the round on double-pointed needles nor magic loop is in and by itself better. Both methods can produce the exact same results. It entirely depends on your personal preferences and knitting style.
Instructions: How to knit magic loop
Knitting magic loop is easiest on circular needles with a really long (32" or 40") and flexible cable. The needle tip itself can be as long or short as you prefer it. You can use the technique for almost any tubular project. Only a super small diameter (~15 stitches or below) can be a bit tricky.
Note: I am using two different tips so it's easier for you to tell them apart.
Tools
Instructions
- Cast on the required number of stitches using a standard longtail cast-on plus one extra stitch. E.g. If your pattern asks for 20 stitches, you cast on 21.
For an extra invisible join, consider starting your cast on with a simple backward loop instead of a slip knot. - Slide the stitches to the center of the cable.
- Fold the cable at the center of your cast-on edge and pull out a loop of cable through the middle. There should be about half of the stitches on either side.
- Slide the stitches on both sides back to the tips of the needles without twisting them. To avoid this, don't let go of either cable as you slide the stitches to the front.
- Slip the first stitch of your cast on back to the other needle using either your fingers or a spare needle. Make sure that you bring the stitch around by 180 degrees as you do that.
- Pass the now second stitch on the back needle over the one you just slipped.
Tug gently on the tail if this loosened up the stitch a bit. You just successfully joined your knitting in the round. - From here, turn your needles around by 180 degrees.
- Now, pull out the needle in front.
The loop at the end of your needles should be about as big as the length of the cable attached to your free (working) needle. Be careful not to pull the loop at the end too close. This can put stress on the seam and result in ladders. - Using the free working needle, start the magic loop technique by simply knitting into the first stitch. Check if the working yarn got tangled up with the cable. You should be able to move it freely around your project and it should not be trapped inside the cable.
Make sure that you keep the last stitch on the cable (so on the other side) and the first stitch close together as you knit the first stitch and keep a nice tension. - Continue knitting across the rest of the stitches on the back needle according to your pattern.
Once you finished knitting all stitches on the back needle, you should have one free needle again. - Gently pull on the loop at the end of your needles to pull back the free needle until all stitches are back on the needle tips.
Make sure that you pull on the right end of the loop and you don't accidentally drop the stitches that you just knitted off the needles. It helps if you secure the stitches on the other side with your fingers. - Turn your project around by 180 degrees again. The needle tips should point towards the right and there should be a big loop on the left. Then, gently pull out the front needle and slide the stitches (you just knitted) to the middle of the cable.
- Pick up the free needle. The working yarn should fall freely behind the work. And then, start knitting across the next set of stitches.
Again, make sure that you keep the last stitch on the loop close to the very first stitch you are going to knit on the new needle. Keep a nice tension but don't pull too tight! - Continue repeating steps 7-13 to knit magic loop. So at the end of each section, you pull on the loop until all stitches are on the needles again, you turn the work around, pull out the needle in front, and continue knitting.
If you look at the pictures closely, you can see that you always pull out and knit with the same needle tip.
Notes
The method itself is quite simple and, unlike when knitting with dpns, you will have a hard time accidentally dropping stitches. The most difficult part is probably the cast on - especially if your pattern requires a lot of stitches that go beyond your needle tips. Then it's very important to check for twists before you start knitting.
As it can be difficult, some knitters prefer to knit flat for 3-5 rows before they join in the round. Later on, they seam the gap using mattress stitch.
How to avoid ladders when doing magic loop
The biggest problems, when it comes to knitting with the magic loop method, are ladders. Compared to knitting the traditional way on circular needles, you end up with two gaps. And this join, and your individual knitting technique can put stress on the stitches to either side of the divide. As a result, a knitter may find a column of very loose stitches or visible bars along the length of their project. A so-called ladder.
So, how can you avoid this?
Important tip: First of all, make very sure that you actually need to knit using magic loop. If your project has a sufficiently large circumference (say a sweater or a cowl), you can knit in the round with a circular needle of a similar length without ever needing to pull out the cable. Brands like Chiaogoo also offer interchangeable needle sets with super short tips (the so-called Mini sets) that will even allow you to knit socks with circular needles.
But if that’s not possible, I urge you to read my full post on fixing ladders. But here are some are some tips specific to magic loop:
1. Don’t stretch out the Gaps
The weak point of any magic loop project are the gaps at the beginning and end of a needle. So, whenever you switch needles, there is this one stitch at the beginning that is a bit more difficult to knit. Make very sure that you bring the last stitch on the loop close to the new needle.
If you don’t, you will automatically create a bit of slack between the stitches and this will be very difficult to fix later on. Speaking from experience, especially English knitters face this problem as they often let go of the needle to throw the yarn. So, make sure that you pinch these stitches together.
2. Keep an even tension
The second cause for ladders when knitting magic loop has to do with tension – or rather the redistribution of the same. Either through the way you knit and tension your yarn or the way you handle the needles and the cables, you may stretch out certain sections or steal yarn from previous stitches. This will lead to an imbalance and it will create ladders all the same.
It’s important to realize that this is a different kind of ladder. In the previous example, there was too much yarn around. Now, the amount is right but as all stitches in a row are connected, you can accidentally pull on any stitch to artificially close an adjacent stitch. The result will be one super small stitch and one really loose stitch. Here’s how this can happen.
A) Pulling too tight
As you bridge the gap, a lot of tutorials will tell you to pull tight after you knitted either only the first or the second stitch. What will often happen is, that this closes the last stitch on the cable. The barrel of the needle isn’t there to define its size anymore. So, when you tug on the working yarn after you’ve knitted the first stitch, this can lead to a super small stitch.
If you pinch the stitches close to each other, you can just continue knitting with the same tension.
Once you’ve finished the second stitch, you may want to give the working yarn a gentle tug nevertheless to pull out any excess yarn around the gap.
Important: Depending on whether you are an overall loose knitter or a tight knitter, the results may be different. A loose knitter may have to tighten up the first or second stitch while a very tight knitter may actually consciously try to knit those first two stitches a bit more loosely to avoid ladders.
B) Using the wrong cable
Another thing that may influence your stitch definition in a negative way are the cables themselves. If the loop on the left end of your needles is too small, not flexible enough, or ends up being twisted, it may end up stretching out the gap.
The result will be a set of very loose strands in between two relatively small stitches, aka a ladder. The key to magic loop knitting is having a cable that is sufficiently long. The brand itself doesn’t matter all that much. It just needs to be long enough to not stress the joins.
Note: I personally prefer to knit with brands that have thicker cables (Knitter’s Pride) as this minimizes the risk of accidentally pulling the stitches on the cable too tight.
3. Don’t knit complicated stitches at the beginning or end of your needles
A very last problem has to do with the fact that complicated stitches tend to put stress on adjacent stitches. When you knit an SSK, a P2tog tbl, or similar stitches, then will automatically end up using the stitches to gain some leverage as you pull the yarn through.
That’s why most tutorials will recommend knitting those stitches close to the tip of your needles for the best results. But when you knit them close to the gap, there is one side where the stitch will be able to steal a bit more yarn because the stitch on the other side is farther away than a normal stitch. This often results in eyelets or ladders. To avoid this, simply shuffle your stitches around.
4. Don’t knit purl stitches as the first or last stitch
The last issue is one that has often been misunderstood. Apparently, it is still a widely held belief – even among knitting professionals – that a purl stitch would use more yarn than a knit stitch and that this can cause ladders. This is nonsense. A purl stitch is a mirror-inverted knit stitch and uses the exact same amount of yarn. Otherwise, patterns like stockinette stitch wouldn’t look the same when you compare flat with circular knitting.
At the same time, the yarn is held in front for a purl stitch. This means the yarn has to travel the outer curve and not the inner curve (think of it as athletes during an 800-meter running event). And this effect will pronounce any underlying problems that cause ladders.
So, if possible try to avoid knitting purl stitches around the gaps. And if it’s a purl-only pattern, meaning reverse stockinette stitch, then consider flipping your project inside out.
5. Use different needle sizes
And here’s one last tip. If you go through the tutorial above, you will see that you always only work with one needle. Your left needle never actually gets to see any action. It just acts as a stitch holder, so to speak. If you own a set of interchangeable knitting needles, you can use that knowledge to attach a needle one size smaller on that end.
This will make sliding the stitches up your needle, entering stitches, and so on, much easier. It won’t help you with the ladders – at least not in a straightforward way. But if you need to push, prod, and pull a lot, then this will stress stitches of the previous row and your overall stitch definition won’t benefit from that.
Anyway, that’s everything you need to know about the magic loop knitting method. Comment below in case you have any questions.
Perfect! Just what I needed!
(By the way, since magic loop allows knitters to use longer needles, people with hand or finger troubles–arthritis, carpal tunnel, etc.–may benefit. I hope so!)
Hi Norman,
Thank you so much for this super-clear tutorial.
I’m trying to start your new hat tutorial (and feel very silly asking this!) but what do I do with the extra stitch that I cast on (156+1 in my case)? Do I k2tog at the beginning to make less of a gap/ladder at the very beginning?
Thanks again!
I don’t quite understand Bee? This tutorial shows you what to do with the extra stitch, doesn’t it? Step 6 says you pass it over. And then you are back to your 156 stitches
I’m having a mental crisis over the fact that I’ve been knitting for a little over a decade and I haven’t been joining to knit in the round. I just start knitting without anything to keep the stitches together to start with. And I never questioned it! I guess I’ll start doing it correctly now, lol
Your tutorial is very clear but I still had ladders in my work. I wonder if it is because I am using an alpaca mix so I’ll try the old fashioned way again this time and keep practising the magic loop when I’m not trying to do a sleeve. Thank you for the info as others do say to keep pulling it tight which didn’t help as I’d already started doing this before I found your tutorial
I have binged watched your tutorials for the last two days…..Your professional approach to your passion of knitting, and the perfectionist that you are, “Sure pleases my Soul”.
Thank you so very much for all your help. I feel at last I have a teacher that cares about the results of your work.
Hello I have tried to learn this method but just don’t get it! As I knit left handed and the only way my mother could teach me was to mirror her I was wondering if anyone else learned to magic loop left handed?
I’m left-handed but I knit right handed I guess (continental).
Video tutorials for magic loop left-handed do exist! Not by Norman, but there are some.
If those aren’t sufficient, maybe another lefty knitter could help troubleshoot with you.
This is by far the clearest tutorial I have seen on using magic loop . I was having difficulty joining until you suggested using another needle or your finger to place the first stitch of the cast on to the back needle and slipping the second stitch over the first. Seems so simple and now I laugh at myself for not using such a pain free technique. I’m new to circular knitting and this was a great help…thank you !
Hello! I have used Magic Loop successfully a few times only to finish hats. Now I am beginning a large knitted stocking and I watched your tutorial to learn how to start with Magic Loop. It makes sense, I am pulling out the front needles and knitting into the 1st stitch on the back half as shown (#12 & #13) but my knit stitches are ending up on the inside of the fabric. What’s happening?
nothing wrong with that. you can always flip things over later on!
it’s just those very first rows where this may happen…just invert it after 5 or so.
Hi Norman, I had the same question, so this reply helps. I have watched a lot of tutorials for magic loop, but this one made the most sense to me. I love your videos! I do have a question about some differences I noticed in the videos. I am sorry for my ignorance. I am a beginner and maybe should have waited to take on a pattern in the round! It seems that a “rule” of magic loop in other tutorials is that with the needles facing right, the working yarn is coming off the back needle and you pull that needle out and then kit into the front. I have been doing the opposite, based on my understanding of your tutorial, with the working yarn coming off the front and pulling the front needle out, then knitting into the back. BUT that seems to involve me knitting into the INSIDE of my tube. Either way, the logic of magic loop seems to be that you pull out the needle from which the working is coming. Thank you for any clarification you can provide. Best, Sara
Goodness, I just watched the video again rather than using the picture and text tutorial and I have it backwards. It IS pulling out the back needle with the working yarn coming from the back. I wonder how how I made this mistake! 😛
The directions are great but the video of the simple back loop is not easy to figure out. Is there a clear video of how you are making the simple back loop?
hm..no. Just place your needle under your yarn and twist it around once. That’s it.
Thank you Norman for a great video and the written tutorial. I am so excited thanks to you I finally learnt the magic loop. What a great teacher you are.
Norman, your written instructions have you pulling out the front needle. In the video you say back. I have started over several times and working needle always ends up in front. I have watched over and over and can’t get my working needle to the back.
I think that is a common problem with most knitters. Knitting is 3-dimension. So there are always infinite ways to hold your projects while still essentially doing the same thing.
So, I guess, front and back isn’t the best term (but the easiest). You should rather think of directions in relation to your yarn tail. You want to continue in a circle. so you pull out the needle where you came from/where your yarn tail is hanging down
I recently tried knitting some socks on magic loop. Have never used one before. Got in a real mess, but found your video and it answered where I was going wrong, having watched a previous tutorial video that was as clear as mud. Thank you Norman for going into the detail. I will have another try.
Thank you so much for your clear posts and videos. You explain and show exactly what you do so well. I appreciate you.
I do have a question. If you do the traveling magic loop, would it be wise to put a beginning of round marker? And that marker would not move correct? Even if you were increasing or decreasing, it’s still marking the beginning of round just as if it was a row in flat knitting right? And another question, do I need to check back to see your answer?
yes, placing a marker is recommended when you do traveling magic loop. The marker stays put (except you manually replace it for whatever reason).
And yes, you will need to check back.