How to knit the bobble stitch

Step by step instructions for the simple bobble stitch knitting technique + helpful little tricks and 5 alternatives

Bobbles are a great way to bring 3-dimensionality and interesting structures into your knitting. Many lace patterns, but also socks, hats, and so many other projects make use of them. They can be a bit tricky at times, so, in this tutorial, I want to show you how to knit the bobble stitch the easy way.

big swatch with the bobble stitch knitting technique

There’s just one thing you need to know: There is not THE bobble stitch. Instead, a bobble just refers to a general appearance. That’s why I will also present you with 5 alternative methods with similar results on top of the classic technique you’ll find in the some knitting books. I’ll also provide you with helpful tips and tricks along the way.

ⓘ In knitting instructions, you will find the abbreviations MB = Make bobble. Often it doesn’t specify what kind of bobble you should knit. So, when in doubt the classic 3-stitch bobble is your best bet.

close-up shot of a swatch in the bobble stitch knitting pattern

So, let’s dive right into it, eh?

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Bobble stitch instructions

big swatch with the bobble stitch knitting technique

The bobble stitch is created by increasing one stitch into three and knitting 3 rows across before you decrease it again. This creates a flap of extra fabric that will look like a bobble if you knit it with a high enough tension. There are many different ways to knit it and this is the classic 3 stitch bobble (see below for further options).

Active Time 5 minutes
Total Time 5 minutes

Instructions

  1. Row: KFBF - knit front, back, front

    knitting a kfbf - knit front back and front
    Knit into the stitch you want to place the bobble. But don't drop the loop off the left needle. Instead, knit the same stitch through the back loop, and then one more time through the front loop. Here's a detailed kfb tutorial.
  2. Row: Turn around & purl across

    turning the work around and starting to purl

    Turn the work around and purl the three stitches you increased in the first row. You are essentially working mini-short rows here. Take extra care you are not accidentally knitting any additional stitches.
  3. Row: Knit

    knitting across after turning the work

    Turn the work around and knit across the same three stitches.
  4. Row: Purl

    purling across one more time

    Turn the work around one more time and purl the three stitches.
  5. Row: K3tog centered

    knittting 3 together centered to finish the bobble stitch

    Turn the work around one last time and knit these three stitches together centered. So, slip the first two stitches as if to knit. Then knit one stitch. And then pass the two stitches you slipped over the one you just knit. Then, continue knitting as normal.

Notes

Try to knit the 3 rows with high tension and maybe with one needle size smaller. Otherwise, the stitches of your bobbles might end up being too loose and not look all that neat.

Instead of knitting a kfbf, you can also knit one stitch, do a yarn over, and then knit into the same stitch again. It's a bit easier to knit but I feel the knit front and back version looks a bit neater. In the picture below, the first bobble was increased with the kfb over method, and the ones in the second row with yarnover/knit.

a swatch showing how changing the increases for the bobble stitch matters

If you want to turn the bobbles into a nice knitting stitch pattern, then cast on multiples of 4 or 6 +2, and then make a bobble with 3 or 5 stitches in between - with two selvage knit stitches on each side. You can offset the bobbles by 2 or 4 stitches every second pattern row.

Important: The bobble stitch is not a reversible pattern. The backside looks rather plain with faintly visible indentations.

backside of the classic bobble stitch knitting pattern

Oh, and one last thing. A lot of tutorials on how to do the bobble stitch will tell you to do a simple k3tog at the end/step 5 (so, insert the needle into three stitches at the same time and pull the yarn through). While you can certainly do that, this version will create a slant and your bobble will not be centered.

Reading tip: To avoid turning the work around constantly, you can also learn how to knit backwards.

4 or 5 Stitch bobble

a swatch with bobble with 3 4 or 5 stitches
From left to right: 5, 4 and 3 stitch bobbles

The bobble stitch basically boils down to knitting an extra bit of fabric and reattaching it one row above. Since you’ll knit those 3 or 4 rows in stockinette stitch, they will curl in on the edges (just in case, here’s how to avoid curling in knitting). No gap will be visible, and no seaming is necessary.

Using this very same principle, you can also knit bigger bobbles. Simply increase to four or five stitches in the first row instead of only three. You can increase with a version of KFB (meaning you alternate between knitting and knitting through back loop into the same stitch). Or, if you are increasing by an odd number of stitches, you can knit into the same stitch over while placing a yarnover in between the knit stitches.

And then, knit across those stitches three rows (just like before) 3 times in stockinette stitch. The only difference is that you’ll have 4 or 5 stitches to knit. Only for decreasing you’ll need a little special trick.

Decreasing 4 bobble stitches: Slip two stitches knitwise, knit one, pass the two slipped stitches over the one you just knit, slip the remaining stitch to the left needle, and pass the next stitch over the first one (I’ll show this in greater detail in the video; see above).

Decreasing a 5 stitch bobble: Slip two stitches knitwise, knit one, pass the two slipped stitches over the one you just knit, slip the remaining stitch to the left needle, and pass the next two stitches over the first one.

Obviously, you can decrease any other way you like but I feel this will result in the neatest and most centered decrease. If you want to go the extra mile, you can only pass over one stitch at a time (similar to a brioche double decrease). The difference will be so minuscule that I don’t feel it’s worth slipping the stitches back and forth 3 more times.

Garter stitch bobbles

swatch with garter stitch bobbles and knitting needles

If you project is in garter stitch, you can also add bobbles to match the stitch pattern. In this case, you simply have to knit across all rows (instead of alternating between knits and purls). As garter stitch is considerably “bumpier” and has a different gauge, I suggest you knit them like this.

  • Row 1: Increase one stitch into 5 stitches (just like before)
  • Row 2: Turn the work around and knit across the 5 stitches
  • Row 3: Decrease back to one stitch. So, k2tog, slip the remaining stitch to the left needle and pass the next three stitches over one at a time.

Naturally, you can also knit across the 5 stitches 2 more times, if you want bigger bobbles. But I feel, these smaller versions look a bit better.

Here’s a more detailed post on the garter stitch bobbles and how to knit the beautiful stitch pattern on the picture above.

Bobble stitch in two colors

bobble stitch knit in two colors with various yarns in the back ground

Knitting bobbles in multiple colors can be the icing on the cake for any knitting pattern. It’s quite easy to do if you know how to knit Fair Isle. You are basically carrying along a spare color for the bobble rows and then knit the bobbles with that color – creating floats on the backside as you go.

Sadly, it’s not that simple because the regular technique will not look great in two colors. That’s why I wrote a detailed tutorial on the two-colored bobble stitch where I show you some very specific alterations and a near trick to hide the tails on top of that.

Read how to knit the two-colored bobble stitch here

Estonian Nupp Stitch

knitting swatch with different estonian nupp stitches which can be a nice alternative for the classic bobble stitch
A swatch with three rows of different nupp stitches

Another great way to create bobbles comes from Estonia. I’m not entirely sure why Estonian lace knitting isn’t more popular in the US but the pattern are simply astonishing (Here’s an excellent book about it).

And there is one particular stitch I would like to mention here: The nupp stitch. Nupp means “button” in Estonian and it’s more or less a variation of the bobble stitch. It can be a bit more difficult to knit but the effect – especially when knit with a fuzzy yarn – is stellar.

  • Step 1: Increase to 7 stitches by knitting into one stitch, keep it on the needle, add a yarn over, and knit into the same stitch again, add another yarn over, knit into it again, yarnover, knit one last time, and drop the stitch.
    Important: You have to stretch out these stitches very far. Don’t knit with your regular tension.
  • Step 2: Transfer the 7 stitches to the left needle and knit them together through the back loop (if it’s too difficult, you may use a crochet hook. But if you knit loose enough it actually should only be mildly complicated) but keep them on the knitting needle.
  • Step 3: Slip the knit stitch you created by knitting together back to the left needle and knit into it one more time, and now you can drop all 8 stitches.

There are many other ways to knit an Estonian nupp but this will create the most prominent bubble (the middle row in the picture above). Some techniques knit the 7 increased stitch together on the return row (either with or without adding a knit stitch on top of the decrease). Kindly comment if you’d like me to do a tutorial for them beyond the short instructions in the video.

Adding Crochet bobbles to your knitting

A crochet bobble added to knitting

If you know how to crochet, then you have one last option to add easy bobbles to your knitting without turning the project around. This can come in really handy if you are working on a big project (like a blanket or a big shawl) where turning around becomes a bit awkward – especially if you have to do it every 3 or 5 stitches. My cherry blossom socks also use this technique to great effect.

Step 1: Slip the stitch you want to place the bobble onto your crochet hook and add 3 chain stitches to it.
Step 2: Add 4 triple crochet (TC) stitches through the same stitch but keep the final loop on the hook instead of joining it to the previous stitch (so you should have 5 loops on it at the end).

4 triple crochet stitches on the hook to form a bobble

Step 3: Crochet these 5 loops together and slip the remaining stitch to your right needle and continue knitting.

crochet the 5 stitches together to finish the bobble

This will be the equivalent of a 5 stitch bobble and look really similar. Obviously, you can also crochet smaller bubbles by only doing double crochet stitches and only adding 3 of them.

Anyway. That’s how you do the bobble stitch in all its variations and alternatives. Feel free to comment below with your questions.

how to knit the bobble stitch

9 thoughts on “How to knit the bobble stitch”

  1. Hi Norman,

    I have am trying to knit a pattern with instructions for bobbles that just says to make the increases into the stitch then decrease it down without mentioning turning and working further rows. Is this just somehow implied, or do I simply increase and then decrease? It seems like that would give a very flat bobble?

    Reply
    • Well, I never comment on any other designers’ pattern so I have no input there other than, if they say you should knit it like that you probably have to. There are different ways to knit bobbles, some smaller some bigger.

      Reply
  2. Hi Norman,
    Thank you for this i
    Informative post. Easy to follow & great options. When I makes the bobbles I have a huge gap (hole) just before the finished bobble. I tried changing my tension. What am I doing wrong? I also only did one round of purl knits. Appreciate any suggestions.
    Thank you!

    Reply
    • well, you can try to knit the leg of the stitch below together with the next stitch. But typically, the bobble should hide the little hole underneath.

      Reply
  3. I need to put different coloured bobbles on the knitting. Would it be possible to crochet into finished knitting? Grateful for any advice

    Reply
  4. I’ve been fighting with my knitting all day trying to make nupps. The nupps won. The looked awful and I wasn’t having any fun. I’ve made bobbles in the past (long ago) and was looking for some fairly simple instructions and this was exactly what I needed. (I can purl 3 stitches backwards so I don’t need to turn the work.) This is on a long row for a horizontally knitted poncho/top so we’re talking about several dozen “bumps.” Bobbles it is. Thank you.

    Reply
  5. Good evening Norman.
    Someone suggested a different bobble method to me and because I can’t be bothered turning my knitting to purl the back of the bobble, I have adopted this method and I love the results. It is a little like making a mini I-cord: knit the stitch through the front/back/front. Slip the three stitches just made back onto the left needle. Knit those three stitches and put them back on the left needle. Knit again and slip onto left needle. Repeat a third time. After the three stitches have been slipped onto the left needle for the fourth time, knit the first stitch, knit the next two together and pass the first stitch over (k, k2tog, po). Bobble made! What do you think?

    Reply
    • Well, I typically knit backwards…so that also makes it easier.
      Your option certainly works as well but it will look different. But if you like it that way, why not? there is no right or wrong in knitting!

      Reply

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